My 1.6td/aaz head and other stuff too. - page 10 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #135 by Smokey Eddy on 08 Jan, 2009 17:24
• Mmm okay. Thanks for the advice.
  So advance would be to push the pump towards the head, right?
  I didn't expect it to be proper because i loosened all the bolts off of everything get as much off as i could. I just went nuts cleaning stuff while i was waiting for parts.
  Dave, from passenger, said he'd do my pump timing with me on a sat. for a 12 case of sleeman's honey brown :roll:  :lol:
• #136 by jtanguay on 08 Jan, 2009 17:47
• that doesn't seem too bad... what temp did you start it at? did you have the block heater plugged in???
• #137 by dillenger1 on 08 Jan, 2009 17:48
• correct.
• #138 by Smokey Eddy on 08 Jan, 2009 22:18
• it was a little cold. I had the block heater plugged in prior to it being rolled onto the drive way. I have it plugged in all the time now. it was between 4-8 celcius.
• #139 by Smokey Eddy on 11 Jan, 2009 00:47
• Woo Hoo!!!
  should my turbo sound like this?
  
• #140 by dillenger1 on 11 Jan, 2009 07:04
• Your idle sounds a little high.the turbo sounds good.You do have a stumble though.Are all your injectors tested?Is that a cold engine?
• #141 by Smokey Eddy on 11 Jan, 2009 12:46
• Yeah the idle is high i know. I have to bring the idle back and the fuel screw in.
  
  The timing is very very very retarded, could that be the stumble? So retarded that with the cold start IN the engine will stall even when hot.
  
  It wasn't cold per say. It took a long time for the fan to turn on but it did eventually. That vid was taken probably  20 minutes of idleing before the fan came on.
  
  
  Which raises a question ...
  I'm going to post a picture of the temp gauge followed by what my oil temp gauge says.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  That oil temp seemed really high to me considering how low the temp gauge reads....
  
  the oil temp stayed around 210 and the temp gauge got to the middle, then water temp went way down (the thermostat opened) then never got back to the middle and then the fan came on but the temp gauge didn't read in the middle at all. It was about half way between the solid white and the middle mark.
  
  I'm using probably 80% water to 20% coolant which i know is wrong but i just wanted to get it hot and retorque. I'm going to drain it all now and replace it with 50/50.
  
  Can anyone comment on the oil temp?
  
  The injectors were tested with merc nozzles and we OK. I listened to each injector with a screw driver and they all sounded quite nice. some slightly different tones but no notable clacking or anything.
• #142 by jtanguay on 11 Jan, 2009 15:23
• what oil are you running in the motor?
• #143 by Smokey Eddy on 11 Jan, 2009 15:29
• 15w40 conventional for break in purposes only...
  I'm switching to synthetic after probably 2-3 thousand kms or when i can tell that the rings have seated.
• #144 by dillenger1 on 11 Jan, 2009 17:23
• did you retorque your head bolts?It will take your rings longer to seat with all the idling.
• #145 by 53 willys on 11 Jan, 2009 17:24
• I would think something is up with your water temp sender?? was the tstat open??
  
  
  
  dont forget...water cools an engine better then coolant(glycol) coolant is only there for lube/anti-rust and antifreeze...
  but if it never froze straight water or dang near straight would be best.
• #146 by Smokey Eddy on 11 Jan, 2009 21:40
• Quote

  did you retorque your head bolts?It will take your rings longer to seat with all the idling.

  
  
  Yes, i retorqued. I know that idling makes the seating take longer but i wanted to get the retorque over with. I didn't anticipate taking so long to heat up.
  
  
  

  Quote

  I would think something is up with your water temp sender?? was the tstat open??
  

  
  
  I bought a new sender but which connector sends the info to the dash? the brown/orange one or the blue one?
  
  
  I am talking about the connectors that go on the flange that sends coolant from the rad to the head and goes down to the pump. I asked this question a while ago but i didn't really get a straight forward answer... I know one of them is to turn the glow plugs off, and the other?
  If anyone knows what colour wire does what that would be great.
  
  The top hose was cold, then went hot so the tstat did open.
  
  
  Edit: I just read that the gauge lead is the yellow with red stripe (what i would call the orange one)
  
  I guess what im really asking is, has anyone had to fix or replace the gauge in the gauge cluster?
• #147 by lord_verminaard on 12 Jan, 2009 07:04
• Are you sure you don't have your oil temp gauge hooked up to a coolant sensor?  There is almost no possible way your oil temp could get that high by idling.  When I drove my gasser Scirocco 250 miles on the highway last summer, it was 85 degrees out, I was going 75 mph, (4000 rpms) and the oil temp didn't get any higher than 85C (185 F).
  
  Edit: Usually the senders for the gauge in the cluster are 1-pin deals, like this:
  
  
  I'm not sure when VW stopped using this type of sender.  On my Scirocco, the oil temp and coolant temp for the factory gauges both use this sender. (2 of them in different places)
  
  Don't know if that helps or not.
  
  Brendan
• #148 by Smokey Eddy on 12 Jan, 2009 13:18
• Yes I am sure  
  I have it replacing the pressure one that goes right above the oil filter.
  
  The brass one is the sender that came with the gauge...
  
  
  
  The oil temp never went higher than this
  
  
  could it be that the sender is too long and it's blocking flow?
• #149 by zukgod1 on 12 Jan, 2009 13:29
• What are you getting for oil pressure?