~My 91 GLI to 1.6TD conversion build up~

[fatmobile]

The Parts Place sells the alignment tool.
 That sticky foam works great for the floppy vents that always want to point downward,...
stuck to the end of the vent housing it provides enough friction to hold them aimed right where you want them.

[53 willys]

couple pics of my heater box rebuild....
heater door with red foam sticker cut out and installed..


bigger door blue and black sticker foam


and the smaller defrost door..





this foam sticker stuff seems to be real nice for the oem foam replacement...pretty cool trick...thanks to the guy on vortex who did the DIY..


heaterbox is going in tomorrow morning...then I gotta adjust the trans linkage and I hope to be good to go for awhile!! (yeah right lol)
I also ordered some LED dash lights...I hate how dim the stock cluster lights are
 :x

[53 willys]

alignment tool

Here's a pdf.  Print it to 8.5 x 11 and it should be correct (unless your printer is off).  

The first page is from the page that Vince originally posted in that thread.  The outline on top in red is cad drawn from the dimensions the page listed (it's a slight bit off maybe from the scanner?).  The second page shows the scan of the actual tool and the discrepancy with the previous sheet that Vince posted.  

I don't know how much the tool costs or where it is available.

Andrew

thanks Andrew!! I printed them out and it looks like it worked...BUT witch one do I copy?? the one with real measurements or the scan of the tool only??....I just want to get it right the first time so I wanna be sure.
thanks

[zukgod1]

You sure on the LED's there??

I think once it's dark out they are plenty bright.

I have mine turned all the way down as the Autometer gauges lite up so much brighter than the cluster lights.

[53 willys]

You sure on the LED's there??

I think once it's dark out they are plenty bright.

I have mine turned all the way down as the Autometer gauges lite up so much brighter than the cluster

 lights.

We will see about the LEDs ....the ones I'm getting are pretty much plug and play...its not that hard to change them..

I'm also kinda woundering if I should put a mph gauge in so they dont get freaked out when I get the title changed to diesel???
I'm gonna need the miles on the odo to match somewhat close to what the title says..

[zukgod1]

You sure on the LED's there??

I think once it's dark out they are plenty bright.

I have mine turned all the way down as the Autometer gauges lite up so much brighter than the cluster

 lights.

We will see about the LEDs ....the ones I'm getting are pretty much plug and play...its not that hard to change them..

I'm also kinda woundering if I should put a mph gauge in so they dont get freaked out when I get the title changed to diesel???
I'm gonna need the miles on the odo to match somewhat close to what the title says..

Hmm.
Ya probably not a bad idea at all. There should be some in the PnP I'll bet.
You could probably take the cluster apart there to get the MPH face.

I don't think it will matter though when it comes to licensing.
Them mileage can be explained " this cluster came with this engine"
Your title will be branded "Mileage in excess of mechanical limits" or something like that.

[53 willys]

**UPDATE**
Well I been driving the car a bit and I have been working some issues out...I still got a few to get right but the big ones are
1.keeps boiling coolant out..(3/4 way up on the gauge)
2.Transmission needs some shifter adjusting
3.Breather filter is blowing oil EVERY WHERE!!!!!!!(just like you guys said it would)



So I dont know why it keeps boiling over,,,I 90% sure the gauge is reading correctly..I did shoot the hoses with a lazer heat gun and temps were never over 201* on any part of the coolant system......I wounder if it's air pockets??....I even put a vacuum pump on the small bypass hose to try and get all the bubbles out.....it bubbled over like 3 times today....but just now when I drove it home it did not.

transmission is still a little out of adjustment...I made BOTH version of those tools and NONE of them made for the correct adjustment.
I ended up just doing it by feel...but now i went a little to far so I gotta adjust it back.

So you guy were right!! the filter I used for a breather is puking oil ALL OVER the place!!  :evil:
so I was showing my dad and also telling him about those $100 billet old navy CCV filters and he said checker has a pretty sweet CCV with a Billet body, lid and hose nipple...he had one on his jeep valve cover so he showed me his and that's what I'm gonna get!! it's super pimp and the price cant be beat.

check it out!(I'm not 100% sure this is the same as my dads?? so wait until I post pics and part numbers for the one I know will be perfect for this car. I'm gonna pick one up tomorrow)
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=SCT&MfrPartNumber=42795&CategoryCode=5001

[cyrus #1]

Congrats on getting it going! :twisted:

How old is the lid on your expansion tank?  Sometimes they get old and won't hold pressure.  If you can't pressurize the cooling system it will boil much sooner.  Do all the hoses seem equally hot or are some areas hotter than others?  Is the fan cycling on and off properly?

Pull the lid off the expansion tank when the car is cold and then start it up.  If it builds pressure or you see a lot of bubbling when stone cold you may have a more serious problem.

I've never had a problem with air pockets on my MKII's.  You results may vary though.  My gasser has a cam and runs with advanced timing.  The gauge can shoot up to 3/4 in the blink of an eye when sitting in traffic.  It doesn't seem to bother it and there is certainly no boiling action.

[Smokey Eddy]

I've struggled with cooling problems many-a-time.
If you have a leak anywhere it will boil over.
If the tank is old and doesn't seal/work it will boil over (same with the lid as mentioned before)
If the rad fan doesn't turn on it will boil over.
If there is air in it anywhere it will boil over.
CHECK THE LID FOR THE RUBBER SEAL
sometimes it gets pushed back and you have to peel it back to where it's meant to be!!!!
don't waste money on a new cap if that is the problem!!!!
check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!!

[zukgod1]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=116&PTSet=A

[53 willys]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=116&PTSet=A

whats that???

[zukgod1]

Did ya click on it?
Your prob on your phone huh?


It's a link to rad caps.

[53 willys]

Did ya click on it?
Your prob on your phone huh?


It's a link to rad caps.

before it was link to checkers search...now your right it links to radiator caps...thanks Dan

[53 willys]

I've struggled with cooling problems many-a-time.
If you have a leak anywhere it will boil over.
If the tank is old and doesn't seal/work it will boil over (same with the lid as mentioned before)
If the rad fan doesn't turn on it will boil over.
If there is air in it anywhere it will boil over.
CHECK THE LID FOR THE RUBBER SEAL
sometimes it gets pushed back and you have to peel it back to where it's meant to be!!!!
don't waste money on a new cap if that is the problem!!!!
check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!!

Man I feel like an idiot!!! you nailed it Ed...I looked at my cap and the oring is all messed up!!!...it came off and the threads got trashed!

I got a new cap should be here in a few hours..
thanks Ed
Mark

[53 willys]

well I thought I had it figured out but I dont! :evil:
I am still burping out coolant even with a new cap :evil:
and now my oil dipstick is puking oil just like ARB's new engine!! :evil:
I'm pissed!