Author Topic: idle hangin.....what controlls the idle (Read 3106 times)

James8485 · « **on:** August 26, 2008, 08:00:27 pm »

ok.....well pump was rebuilt lke 8 months ago and i did that mod which you disconnect the one wire to the bottom cylinoid and bridge it to the other worked great for a while but i dont know whats going on now.....i have slower starting (maybe starter maybe back power/ground somwhere) not sure yet.
anyways getting to business when i let off on the clutch and the idle should come back down to 900-950 it wierd it varys now it hangs.....like 1200 it will stick then stay there then it come down when it feels like it or it will come down if i have it in first then let out the clutch a bit with the break on it forces the moter to idle down but what controlls it???
i need to know what controlls the idle......it idled at 900-950 forever now it idleing higher dont know why??? PLEASE HELP!!! did change the turbo and thought maybe i burning oil bit my level doens go down very much maybe .05 thou on the dipstick every 4000 and i drive hard!!!! i need to fix this bit need some help

jackbombay · « **Reply #1 on:** August 26, 2008, 08:22:12 pm »

There is a 10 mm nut on a threaded shaft that lets the arm the throttle cable is connected to turn more, or less, depending on where you set it, use that to adjust the idle. Loosen the 10mm nut, turn the screw out, you can do this with the engine running, watch out for the fan though, and then tighten the 10mm nut down when the idle is where you want it.

jimfoo · « **Reply #2 on:** August 26, 2008, 08:59:38 pm »

Actually what you are describing is the residual fuel screw, not the idle. The idle is on the engine side of the pump by the cold start. The residual fuel screw does help with a hanging idle, but usually it will be almost running away if it's adjusted wrong. It sounds like you do just need to do the idle screw. Another thing that can increase idle is if your turbo is starting to leak oil, or you get some oil from blow by going into the intake.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #3 on:** August 27, 2008, 05:02:35 am »

If it was built 8 months ago you shouldn't need to change any settings.

Check that you aren't pulling in lots of air in the fuel line, and then get your injectors tested. Bad injectors will cause hanging RPMs.

Check your air filter while you're at it just to cover the basics.

James8485 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 27, 2008, 07:32:30 am »

i dont really want to touch the res. thing you where talking about as it was fine a month ago prob is get worse now......i would hompe no blow by as motor was rebuilt 7 - 8 months ago and ive put 25000 on it so far i do drive it hard like it does see 3500-4000RPM quite often but i done think that would cause any damage......as for turbo...........its a good possibility, i know there is oil in the boot when i take it off but i had a rebuilt one (K03) and it still had alittle bit and my level doesnt even really go down..

the motor was rebuilt but i did not do the injectors, the injectors if they are original would have 325000 on them....is there a way to check em?
it would make sence though if some where sprayin alittle heavy not allowing idle to come back down as well as smoking in lower RPM before i can build up enough boost to burn it, my 1.6 Pin is looking at the back of the car so its medium, but wow drive it in second then switch at 2000RPM then get on it right away on 3rd she smokes like a chimmney EGT only 1100 sees 1400max never higher(only when driving hard)

VW_Commuter · « **Reply #5 on:** August 27, 2008, 09:22:23 am »

Quote from: "jimfoo"

Actually what you are describing is the residual fuel screw, not the idle.

Jim, could you post a pic of the residual fuel screw? I can't seem to find a reference to it in the Bosch VE Pump manual and kind of feel like a dummy since I can't find it.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #6 on:** August 27, 2008, 09:42:34 am »

Send them to Giles. We'll test them for free and let you know what we find