1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan

[arb]

This weekend I braved the cold with a sore throat, so work was slow. I got the coolant temp and oil pressure lines connected. I tie-rapped the cable bundle to the bottom of the master cylinder - sorry no photos, it was so cold that the digital camera refused to work after getting frozen with me ;-)  I also ran the IP solenoid indicator light to the IP. (on my new cluster). I roughly placed the fuel filter where it will be mounted.

Step by step, but remember this is FUN for me :-D

[dillenger1]

I have a mechanical speedo gear and cable.Is that what you need?

[arb]

I have a mechanical speedo gear and cable.Is that what you need?

If I can't find the electronic speedo sending unit (gear) then I might have to use the cable drive..

[jtanguay]

have you taken the caravan speedo sensor out to examine it? i assume its one that spins?

[arb]

have you taken the caravan speedo sensor out to examine it? i assume its one that spins?

Yes, I was intending on using the Chrysler sensor in the VW as they look and function nearly the same, but the VW hole is smaller than the Chrysler gear so it will not fit. So, I keep looking.

Searching the parts sites, it looks like the gear unit that bolts to the trans case is what I need. Hopefully one that goes to an electronic speedo.

Maybe somethiing like this:

[/img]

[arb]

I have learned this is the part I need - it is from an manual trans on the MK3



http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e214934313931393038413/f

Does anyone have one ?

[arb]

I've had a respiratory infection for almost 2 weeks, so no work in the cold...

Just got some Z-Pack antibiotics, so I'll be back in the groove in a couple of days :-)

[arb]

I'm in love again !! I missed my diesel mistress. ;-P

I received my speedo sending unit from ktzdsl - THANKS DUDE !!


Installing it was a little more challenging because I didn't want to lift the car. I could not find the correct bolt to hold the sender in the trans.


Next I reattached the oil sending line to the filter boss as it looked like it got bent and I didn't want the plastic to fail. I then sealed the temp sending line to the mechanical gauge. Next I installed the last 2 hoses to the water pump.

PROGRESS !!!!

[arb]

We had rain last night, so I worked in the garage fabricating the air filter hardware. I have some 2" ID aluminum tube I was going to use.. I cut a piece off and formed it to the 4" OD I need for the K&N filter. I used a 4" PVC pipe and a rubber mallet to form it. Next I welded the seam.

It did not weld cleanly. The grade is unknown. I should buy some 6061 and do this again. The back side was even worst.


Well, maybe I polish it up and see how it looks.

[arb]

I decided that aluminum was garbage and used some flat stock I have that is weld-able. Forming it was a little hard to do without a rolling mill or English Wheel. here is my welded unfinished ring and the one I tried to make. The bar stock is under it.

Here it is in the K&N filter and finished OD.


I have not decided if I should weld up the reduction or just buy a 3.5" - 2" silicone... I want to be making smoke this coming weekend, so I'll probably make it.

[arb]

Looking at the photos again of the aluminum tube, it appears that the 2" tube was coated with some kind of anticorrosion layer that could have been preventing the TIG cleaning spray from pulling aluminum atoms from the surface. I'll pickup a sand blasting cabinet today from "China Freight"
and try bead blasting the tube before I try to weld the thick collar I made with the 2" tube using the 2 halves I formed.

[arb]

My garage was filled with parts and boxes for my laterst tool to do my diesel conversion. Isn't it great to justify new tools with such a money saving project as a diesel daily driver ? :-)
Some assemby required !!

The bolts around the bottom were not fun - its quite the reach to the other side from the assess door.

[arb]

We had another winter storm here this weekend with blowing snow... so I worked inside. The coating on the aluminum was the cause of the poor welding. The bead blasting cleaned it nicely. I needed to go from 3.5" to 2", so I cut some "V"'s out of the thin walled tube to reduce it.

The welding was just OK. It should hold up nicely.

I painted it with the same hammer tone paint I used on the instrument cluster.

[arb]

I'm on a roll now... after I noticed my argon regulator got bumped up to 60 cfm !! I lost almost half a tank on just that one flange for the K&N :-(

Anyway, mounted the aux fuel pump last night. Got the plumbing and electrical connections to it as well. Have not decided where to mount the fuel filter or coolant reservoir though.

Plumbed the heater as well.

Got the oil cooler plumbed. Still need to finish the turbo / vac pump return lines... next !

and the rest of the cooling lines, except the radiator as it is big and I'll wait until the rest of the engine compartment is nearly done. I used the stock metal line from the heater to the pump. In this case, it goes to the oil cooler.

[arb]

I had a marathon building session yesterday. I started with connecting all the wires from the instrument cluster to the engine. WOW, this took most of the day as I had made a couple mistakes.

The wire to from the glow plus to the GP indicator light (to show if they have power for any reason) I forgot to run in the wire harness I made and installed. Man. I don't look forward to snaking another wire, so I reused the ignition supply line for the instrument cluster to be used as the GP light. I then found how useless my Chilton's manual was for this Caravan - no real wiring diagram. So, I searched the web to find where I could tap into the IGN circuit... the radio !

I also didn't connect the Boost gauge's light to power. I also forgot to have a wire exit the cluster for the gauge lights. I did find where to tap into the instrument lights in the Chilton (IF it works !! - the Orange/white wire at the dimmer / light switch. Next I secured the cluster to the dash, secured the GP relay, closed the knee board, and decided I better get more Argon for making the anti-torque mount. Notice how high the feed regulator got pumped to. Hard to believe Miller didn't include a jam nut on the regulator.

Next I put another 6 gallons of diesel in the tank. It was in a gas can and I wanted to be sure no water got into since I bought the fuel a number of months ago. So, I screened it through a paper towel.

Next I connected all the coolant lines and the oil return line for the turbo.

Next I secured the IP fuel shut-off wires - notice the liquid tape sealing the splices. I also connected the vacuum lines and secured them.

Next, the alternator bracket was mounted. Wow, the space around the mount I made is very tight. I didn't think it would be when I made the mount.

This will need some re-routing of the lines.

OK, I moved the heater / oil cooler return line to above the mount.

Last, I mounted the alternator. The travel is not as much as I had designed in the bracket as I didn't take into account the water pump is in the way of the alternator's swing.

Here is my much shorter list now:
Fabricate anti-torque engine mount.
remove gasser wires / ECM
Connect alternator wires
Find right side belt for alternator
install a/c compressor mount and compressor
Install radiator & expansion tank
Mount fuel filter
Fill coolant
Install battery box
Install intake heater
Connect turbo - intake (intercooler when spring comes)
Torque passenger side drive shaft bolts
Install clamps to down pipe / flex joint
Fabricate S.S. elbow of 130 degrees
Install exhaust / muffler
Remove stock fuel pump power
Start engine
Run to operating temp w/o expansion tank cap
Top off coolant
Retorque head bolts
Attach hood to hinges
Almost forgot, replace stone shields, make curb-strike guard to protect engine - Alternator.