So i know they are supposed to smoke

[Guipo]

believe it or not, it only has 120k on it.(or what the odo says).  The Vacuum pump was out for a long long time, and is now fixed.  That sucks from the crankcase if I'm right.  So that might be fixed now.

[janb]

Replaced the Air Filter.  It was coated in Oil and Gunk.  So hopefully that will help.  Why would the Air filter be coated?

I couldnt identify the screw.  Anyone have a pic?

http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/engine/fi/injpump.html

Full load adjusting screw (upper right on back (dist side) of pump)  Typically has a lock ring to avoid 'overfuelling'... hint... your engine can run away with too much of this adjustment to the 'rich side'.

If you are looking for less smoke, go counterclockwise 1/8 turn at a time and do a 'full throttle' blip and look for a little black smoke (that gets it about right).

If it is black smoke (diesel) air starvation OR too much fuel is usually the main issue. (or your foot is in it too far when under load... not good for head gaskets either). The air filter element should be ~2" thick, not the 1" thick one for gas engines (and is the one FRAM thinks you should use for Diesel  :roll: )  get the thick one.  Diesels need lots of air

 you can run bio-D to help reduce smoke... brew your own
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/

Oil in Air filter is typical bad sign of blow by, and seems to be worse in early engines.  The cam 'splash' cover is a standard gas engine part ~ $10 (8v GTI (85-89) was one application that used it, or go to the junk yard or ask for one on Craigs list.

You might want to build a 'snorkel' for your oil vent hose.  The TDI page has some options for the early (96-99.5) engines.  Basically it is a 'trap' like under your sink.  You just run the hose into some plastic fittings you glue up, with a chamber filled with metal pot scrub pad or two, it has a drain plug, and forces air to make a 90 degree bend,  Empty the drain as often as necessary. (hint, build a deep one, ~ 1/2 pint)

You should be able to get 44+ mpg with the 4 spd.  I had one that got 60 in an early Rabbit.

[Guipo]

Cool Thanks.  After replacing the air filter, smoke is no longer a major problem.  

Now to fix the oil in the air filter, and it should be alot better.  What a mess that was.  

I did check the blow by, and there is quite a bit.  Sounds pretty Standard for diesels, but never good.

You know my chevy diesel has a CDR vent that has a brillo pad type thing in it that stops oil.  Would something like that work for me?

Thanks for all the help guys.  I'm glad that there's a community for such a rare car.  I look forward to being a part of it for a while.  Thanks again for everything!

Guipo

[janb]

something else that may help reduce blow-by is to increase oil viscosity.

I use 20w-50 in my early engines (non-hydraulic... pre-'86).  They seem to like it much better than 15-40 (they use less of it and run quieter).
You should be safe with heavy oil in your warm climate, you will need to rebuild it when it will no longer start in cold weather. (or plug in a tank type water heater), eventually it will just not start even when warm.  A good battery and starter will keep it spinning fast enough to start for awhile.

Rings and bearings are cheap.  If you have good oil pressure, you can possibly get by with an econo 'in-frame' rebuild.  If you have low oil pressure you probably have bad intermediate cam bearings, which require removal of the engine to repair. Valve Guides and seals will probably be a big help too, the head is our 'weak' link.  :oops:

[Smokey Eddy]

the circled screw is the fuel screw. I know thats a pump for something with 6 cylinders but they look identical. Look there and you'll see your screw if you haven't already

[Guipo]

Thanks for all the Help guys.  Down the road I'll probadly throw a 1.6 in it.  Who do you guys' like for rebuilds?

[Possum79]

if you ever get ride of the 1.5 you can always give it to me  :lol:

I want a 1.6TD for my car but can afford to do it.

[zukgod1]

Most of us rebuild our own junk to save funds..

[Guipo]

do you piece together stuff, or buy kits?

[zukgod1]

PM myke_w on this board for parts, he can get you everything you need.

[Possum79]

you can always compression test to check the wear level on your current engine.

[Guipo]

I plan on it.  I'm just covering all my bases!  You wouldnt happen to have a diesel compression tester would ya!  

[Possum79]

I do! I just bought one from harbor freight and yet to use it. If you wana bum it I'm willing to help. I need to do mine I'm just concerned of breaking something on mine. You have to take out the injectors for this one to work.

[VW Fox]

Down the road I'll probadly throw a 1.6 in it.

Do it!  Using Quantum TD parts, the swap is really easy.  A Quantum downpipe even fits perfectly.  48HP -> 68HP is a big jump.

For transmissions, look to the 4-cyl VW Quantum/Audi 4000 and VW Fox.  The Fox's 4-speed has a taller 4th and is almost a direct swap (rear transmission mount is different).  The 5-speeds fit as well (I've got a 5M in mine), but require transmission tunnel modifications, the mount mentioned above and 5-speed linkage.

[Guipo]

oh gosh, I'd love a new transmission.  I think if I can get a motor from a junk yard, work on it slowly would be the best idea.