Author Topic: How long is too long for tranny to sit on a shelf? (Read 2934 times)

rabbid79 · « **on:** June 11, 2008, 11:24:32 pm »

Hi, I'm thinking about putting a 4-speed tranny (code GL with extra long gears) behind the 1.9 in my Rabbit. I've found one locally for $80, but it has been sitting on a shelf (stored in a shed) for 10 years. What are the chances of the seals being any good on it after sitting dormant in Utah's extreme weather for so long? I haven't actually looked at it yet, but unless it's got obvious issues, I'm thinking about picking it up. Does anybody have any input? Or for that matter, a good low mileage GL or GP 4-speed they want to get rid of? Thanks.

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #1 on:** June 12, 2008, 05:57:13 am »

it should be fine! hand shift it in all gears and move the inputshaft and watch the drive flanges move! if they sit out side and moisture or water gets inside that will be bad!
Duane

saurkraut · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2008, 06:09:02 am »

The important seals aren't that hard to change.

There is like 7:

clutch push rod, and in put shaft, (inside the bell housing both easy and important)

2 drive flange seals, (easy if you have the special tool, and important),

O-ring on the speedo cable, (FFFT)

shift lever (high on the trany, a nusance leak only),

and clutch lever shaft (never seen one that leaks).

Anybody have a non-official-special tool procedure for changing the drive flange seals?

If you don't mind checking and topping off the trans oil, just do the two seals in the bell housing and roll the dice.

I'd be more concerned with corrosion inside the gear box. If it sat in an un heated garage for 10 years, it could have 10 years of condensation in there. Demand to have it drained, and personnally observe the event. If water comes out, politely pass on the opportunity.

hamradio · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2008, 06:19:43 am »

Not much different than sitting in a car for 10 years, unused, IMO.

Black Smokin' Diesel · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2008, 08:57:24 am »

Quote from: "saurkraut"

Anybody have a non-official-special tool procedure for changing the drive flange seals?

http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html

jimfoo · « **Reply #5 on:** June 12, 2008, 09:17:44 am »

Utah is a pretty low humidity state. I'd be surprised if it had much if any corrosion.

Quantum TD · « **Reply #6 on:** June 12, 2008, 03:03:34 pm »

On the 4-speeds and the early 5-speeds, you don't need a special tool to change the seals, as there is no compression spring behind the drive flanges. You'll just need a pair of circlip pliers to pop off the clips. That's all.

rabbid79 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 12, 2008, 05:54:50 pm »

Lot's of good information guys, thanks. While I'm replacing the flange seals, I wonder if that'd be a good time to add a shim kit?

subsonic · « **Reply #8 on:** June 12, 2008, 08:40:41 pm »

Thread jack! On the same sort of line, While I have it out, before I put this 10 year old 02A TDI CTN transmission into my car, what seals should I swap out?

Quantum TD · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2008, 10:19:27 am »

Quote from: "subsonic"

Thread jack! On the same sort of line, While I have it out, before I put this 10 year old 02A TDI CTN transmission into my car, what seals should I swap out?

The usual suspects: the flange seals, and the input shaft seal, pushrod seal, and bushing (I don't think the 02a has the last 2 though).