Author Topic: Exploding mechanical headgaskets  (Read 7890 times)

Reply #15May 13, 2008, 02:19:54 am

OM617

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Exploding mechanical headgaskets
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2008, 02:19:54 am »
I wouldn't even waste my time in a "race" with such restrictive rules.

Reply #16May 13, 2008, 04:39:49 am

TedV

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Exploding mechanical headgaskets
« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2008, 04:39:49 am »
I can move up a class and be more open with what can be done to the motor and chassis, but then I'd be competing against BMW M3, WRX STi, EVO's, etc.  :shock: defying the laws of physics gets costly  :lol:

Found more questionable stuff while cleaning last night.  The thick washers topline sent to use with their head weren't exactly flat when inspected real close.  :?  Couple of the recess in the head I could see matching indentions in the Al.  Loss of torque and clamping presure on head as it compressed from running higher boost??  Hey, I'm grasping for ideas here.   :lol:    Filed all washers flat for peice of mind.

Reply #17May 13, 2008, 08:11:42 am

zukgod1

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« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2008, 08:11:42 am »
I would be willing to bet you may have something there with the washers.
Maybe not but..

If they weren't flat and didn't compress fully during the torque sequence anyway.
dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

Reply #18May 19, 2008, 09:38:13 am

TedV

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Exploding mechanical headgaskets
« Reply #18 on: May 19, 2008, 09:38:13 am »
Victor and I are not getting along.  Neither is my trans.  After autocrossing it for 16 years, 2nd gear decided to break at the Pro Solo Doublecross in Atl.  Friend drove 6 hours round trip and we replaced the trans, only to have the head gasket go on the 2nd run.  This is embarasing.  :oops:   I've never had a motor give me this much problems in my life when everything checks out good.   :?

Geoff let me drive his Rabbit and I finished 2nd in class on Sat qualifiing, Geoff had a bad day on the right side course. On Sunday made it into the final 32 car challenge round.  Got beat there by myself and the E Stock national champion.

Thanks Geoff!!!

Reply #19May 19, 2008, 10:59:14 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2008, 10:59:14 am »
supposedly steel seal works to fix hg leaks.  www.steelseal.com  how would they know you used that stuff?  :lol:


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Reply #20May 19, 2008, 03:30:41 pm

theman53

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Exploding mechanical headgaskets
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2008, 03:30:41 pm »
I know a guy who has a 1.8L vw that he runs nitrous and a turbo on it as well...he uses a fel-pro gasket. I know this is not a diesel, but it does produce 20 lbs of boost and then that nitrous kick. I don't know if it will work with your class restrictions, but it should as long as it is for the model year car and not the newer 1.9L. He hasn't had a problem in his gas motors not with the head gasket, more piston breakage than head gasket failure and I used on in my diesel jetta without a problem...yet of course. They ran me about 46.00 at the local parts store, so it is a little more money, but if it helps. You already know that you have a problem with the victor and doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result may be insanity  :lol: . I wish you luck with whatever you find even if it isn't a "oem" product.

Reply #21May 19, 2008, 09:37:56 pm

TedV

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« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2008, 09:37:56 pm »
the fel pro gasket for CY motors is on my list to check out when I get the time. They list a seperate gasket for the NA motors.  The turbo gasket looks like it might have more reinforcement, but have not comfirmed it yet.

Reply #22May 20, 2008, 05:50:30 am

TedV

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« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2008, 05:50:30 am »
may have been premature on the head gasket diagnosis.  I heard pining like when water is getting in a combustion chamber (hhmm over the diesel noise did have me wondering tho)  Someone said the exhaust smelled like oil so could be turbo seal..  except at that time, no oil at tail pipe.  Guess I shut it down too fast saturday.  Ran it a minute last night after pressure testing- held presure just fine like before it exploded the 1st head gasket last time,  and about 2 quarts of oil puddled out the exhaust.

turbo shaft is in 2 peices.  compresor has a little play but that wheel does not hit the houseing.  will continue the tear down later..   gggrrrrr  everything screwing up on this car is really killing my confidence.

Reply #23May 20, 2008, 11:28:53 am

xud9te

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« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2008, 11:28:53 am »
From reading this thread it seems similar to few failures I have had.  The problem seems to be that once an alloy head is overheated to a certain extent then the alloy softens, causing the problem you have.  After this the metal takes new properties of a lower modulus (G) and seems to bend once it gets to temp again.

The answer may be to use another (good) cylinder head that has not seen any high temps before.  Do you know the history of the head that you have?  Has it been driven after a HG failure for any length of time? (i.e. no cooling?)

It may be the cheapest potion just to get a new head from a known source and try it rather than modify anything you have?..

Reply #24May 20, 2008, 01:28:26 pm

saurkraut

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« Reply #24 on: May 20, 2008, 01:28:26 pm »
Victor and I seem to be getting along OK.  Been runing over 20 PSI for three years.  Pleanty of full boost smoke.  Every stop light is a drag race, ever curve Daytona.

Currently running with no waste gate, 28 PSI.

Raceware head studs torqued to 50 ftlbs ONCE.

Maybe that ARP re-torque jaz is hosing up your head gaskets.
'79 1.6TD RABBIT
'84 1.5TD RABBIT
'83 Diesel Westy
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo Quatro Wagon
92 Audi 100
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Reply #25May 20, 2008, 01:50:05 pm

TedV

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« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2008, 01:50:05 pm »
checked accuracy of my torque wrenches,  maybe 1% error to the wrench.

Head is a brand new TD head from TopLine, never been used. Thinking I may need to call topline.  I verified the water temp sender to the gauge in boiling water.  The motor has never had water temps over 100 deg C.  Oil temps have been to 120 deg C.
Time run after head gasket failure is in seconds.  This car is a trailer queen and the longest it runs WFO is the 30 to 40 seconds on an autocross run.  The puking coolant out the cap indicates cylinder pressure is getting to the water jacket, but it holds presure as soon as the motor is off.  I've never had a problem with ARP in past motors. Torqued to 96 Ft Lbs with their lube.

If I could find a head around here that was good enough to rebuild I would.  Last head I looked at before buying the Topline was warped, pitted, needed all valve seats and valves, cam, springs, buckets, baisicaly everything. he wanted $250 for it.  He acted insulted when I said most I'd give was core value cause that's what it was.

Reply #26May 20, 2008, 02:08:15 pm

rabbitman

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Exploding mechanical headgaskets
« Reply #26 on: May 20, 2008, 02:08:15 pm »
Well I don't have a turbo (yet) but I do have a topline head that I've been running for just over two years (almost 40,000 miles) with no problems. Took it off after about 15,000 miles for a ring job and there weren't any cracks between the valves. I also have the stretch head bolts. Good luck
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
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Reply #27May 21, 2008, 05:39:51 am

fastvicar

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« Reply #27 on: May 21, 2008, 05:39:51 am »
Quote from: "TedV"
I've never had a problem with ARP in past motors. Torqued to 96 Ft Lbs with their lube.


Wait....doesn't ARP specify an assembly torque of 40 lb-ft with their lube & 90 lb-ft with motor oil?
1981 Rabbit 1.6L TURBO!!  "The Whistle Pig"

Reply #28May 21, 2008, 08:59:44 am

TedV

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« Reply #28 on: May 21, 2008, 08:59:44 am »
Quote from: "fastvicar"
Quote from: "TedV"
I've never had a problem with ARP in past motors. Torqued to 96 Ft Lbs with their lube.


Wait....doesn't ARP specify an assembly torque of 40 lb-ft with their lube & 90 lb-ft with motor oil?


depends on the application. The chart and specs that came with my 12mm kit is similar to the chart at http://www.alamomotorsports.com/arp/headstuds.html#install_tips  it was the first place I found with the google search.  On the gas motors I've used them in with smaller diameter threads, I did use less torque

Reply #29May 22, 2008, 04:15:54 am

fastvicar

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« Reply #29 on: May 22, 2008, 04:15:54 am »
Yup, you're right.  I was thinking of the 11mm studs.   :oops:
1981 Rabbit 1.6L TURBO!!  "The Whistle Pig"