Author Topic: ARP head stud specs (Read 4104 times)

zukgod1 · « **on:** February 22, 2008, 01:09:33 pm »

Ok guys I searched and searched and to make this worse I think I've asked this question already but I cant find the damn post now.

12mm ARP head studs. 80lbs Correct?
90 would be ok? Using their lube.

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2008, 01:44:39 pm »

apparently when you use their lube you need less torque since the friction is reduced.

fastvicar · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2008, 01:50:10 pm »

Anybody have access to the specs/procedure? I'll be installing ARP 11mm studs next week & it would be nice to know.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2008, 02:03:30 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

apparently when you use their lube you need less torque since the friction is reduced.

This is true.

I think with reg motor oil as lube it's like 130 and with their lube it's like 80.

I'm just wanting to get a tad better clamping.

jimfoo · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2008, 03:43:58 pm »

120 with oil and 80 with their lube, but that's for 12mm. I would think 11mm would be less.

dieseldunebuggy · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2008, 05:26:41 pm »

Quote from: "fastvicar"

Anybody have access to the specs/procedure? I'll be installing ARP 11mm studs next week & it would be nice to know.

The final torque for the ARP 11mm head studs are 85lbs/ft with 30w oil. You'll go up in three sequences to 85lbs/ft. Then you'll loosen all and repeat 3-5 times. You don't have to they say, but you can retorque after the engine warms up.

subsonic · « **Reply #6 on:** July 23, 2008, 09:24:28 am »

Just got off the phone with ARP. 12mm studs are 80 with there lube.
10mm main studs are 60 with there lube.

They said that was the spec for 75% of the yield strength of the stud.

Forgot to ask what the con rod spec was. Anyone know.

captainpartytime · « **Reply #7 on:** July 24, 2008, 12:03:32 am »

ARP
Mains (10mm) = 60 ft./lb. w/ moly lube
Head Studs (12mm) = 80 ft./lb. w/ moly lube
Rod Bolts = 40 ft./lb. w/ moly lube
*Note: Rod bolts need to be torqued to 40, loosened, then re-torqued to 40 three times (like stretch bolts)

chrisrandle1 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 24, 2008, 11:56:36 pm »

Ok I have read all of the posts on arp studs and need some clairifcation. I have a 92 ecodiesel, which studs do I need (part number) and how to tighten...step by step please.

Thanks a bunch

-Chris

subsonic · « **Reply #9 on:** July 25, 2008, 11:20:13 am »

Look in the FAQ section. All the numbers are there. Chase the bolt holes on the head to clean them out. Install studs hand tight. Use sealer if you wish. Put on HG. Put on head. Install nuts with arp lube. Torque to spec. You may want to go up in stages.

saurkraut · « **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2008, 12:33:24 pm »

Is it just me, or do other poeple get the heebee geebees about loosening and retorqueing the head studs three times!?!?!

Doesn't that mash the crap out of the head gasket and make it prone to leaks?

I fail to grasp the logic of this 3 cycle torque procedure. it seems counter intuative.

Seams to me that 3 to 4 torque stages to the specified torque. Drive it for a while, check it cold, and forget it.

Oh by the way, I have Raceware studs, torqued once to 50 ftlbs, retorqued cold after a few hours run time.

Never touched them since.

100K+ miles, running 28 PSI boost, No intercooler, stock fiber gasket.

Every stop light is a drag race, every turn Daytona.

I don't baby it, and it doesn't leak.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 25, 2008, 12:39:43 pm »

I agree, no re-torque with studs required.
Set it and forget it.