well long time since an update on this, and i wanted to take some video's & pics of the progress, but i didn't
anyways.. the motor is in the car and it runs EXCELLENT aside from what sounds like possibly a bit too much advance, but i don't mind as long as it won't hurt the motor. i also bought a kevlar clutch upgrade as i'm sticking with a mk2 transmission for now. (will go TDI box if i can get one for a decent price)
so far the kevlar clutch needs to be broken in, and can easily be slipped. i've stuck with the K24 turbo, and can barely build 10 psi with close to, but not even 1000F pre-turbo EGT's without slipping the clutch (gently accelerating-5th gear) so the motor is definitely making the power. just sucks because it will take about 1000km of driving to fully break in the clutch...
the total seal rings seem to be doing their job as there is virtually no blowby. i also like the 1.9 block because it has a vent for the bottom end so it won't push the dipstick tube up like on the 1.6 :roll: and considering the rings aren't even broken in yet, it seems to have great compression (although will test at a later date to confirm numbers) as she started on the first catch WITHOUT glowplugs at -3C (weather network, actual temp might be varied) and no lumpy idle, or stumbling!
AT LAST!!! no more rough starting 1.6 engine for me!!! with glowplugs, the engine starts up sooo smooth... even better than my 1.6 in the summertime!!! and whats better, is that it seems that the colder the motor is, the quieter it is at idle and even driving. which also leads me to suspect possibly a bit too much advancement (colder fuel-less timing advancement, or is it the other way around?).
the engine was timed to .90, and on the very first try fired right up with absolutely no hiccups. truly a first rate build. i love it when things go right! i consider this a full rebuild minus the bore & new pistons, due to them still being within spec.
the oil is currently being filtered with the FS-2500 bypass filter, and the pressure drop seems to be acceptable - hot idle is around 15 psi. approx 120km on the oil, and on the dipstick it looks the same as it did when it was first poured in. ANYONE WHO OWNS A DIESEL SHOULD OWN ONE OF THESE FILTERS!!! i was going to change the oil after 1000km of driving for the sake of the break in period, but now i'm not... i'm simply going to have oil analysis done at a much cheaper cost - about $40 for an oil change (rotella & bosch filter, not even synthetic...), or approx $20 for oil analysis... the filter system pays for itself after a few years, and will continue to pay for itself just in the way it protects the motor, which was a huge investment for me. once i switch to synthetic, my oil change interval could be as high as 3-5 years. which only further increases the savings. i would estimate bypass filter changes at about 15,000km or more as they are built for heavy machinery dumping crazy amounts of soot into the oil. they also remove water, a leading cause of acid buildup in the oil :wink: lets do some math here. $70 for a synthetic oil change which lasts 5 years, but filters are approx $25, and if changed every 15,000km will add up to 7, and we will add another $70 for synthetic top ups for filter changing for a grand total of $315. or 20 non synthetic oil changes if you follow the recommended 3 month OCI. 20 x $40(rotella & filter) = $800. this doesn't even take into account the disposal, the aggravation, frustration, mess, etc. bypass filter = about $300. so using the more expensive, and better oil (amsoil or equivalent) you're even saving money than using that okay, but not perfect oil that gets quickly contaminated with soot particles. so i'll just leave that at that! (that is how i rationalized the purchase... :lol:) oh i forgot about the full flow filters... they recommend these be changed every 80,000km as i will be using the amsoil EA filter (filters down to 15 microns, and should last to 15,000 without the bypass filter)
i have to give andy2 and his dad a lot of credit to the successful completion of this build (i had them install it - best decision i ever made). they caught some critical errors which would have completely ruined it. first, the crank sprocket wasn't fitting snug on the snout (had to be welded up and then filed down-this could have lead to a failed crank bolt eventually) and the engine rebuild shop put in one of the intermediate shaft bearings wrong (some scoring... could have been my installing the shaft and trying to turn it though) the int shaft bearings were glyco, which apparently need to be reamed. some clevite bearings were installed properly and did not require reaming. the timing belt tensioner issue was solved by using the steel cover from a 1.9 which used the newer style tensioner, and marking my steel cover, and then notching it out. simply brilliant! these guys are top notch! i would recommend them to anyone needing work on their diesels. especially getting the crank nose fixed!
i'm going to be taking some video's, as well as popping by Giles' shop to show him how its running. if this clutch ever holds the power, i'll take it to the dyno :twisted:
another thing about this pump... i asked Giles to give me a retarded idle, but ONLY for idle (for really) and so he did... the idle is pretty quiet... in fact it was more quiet than a passat diesel i heard tonight... BUT when i'm on the go pedal, it comes alive with all that diesel clattery goodness we've all come to love :twisted: the main reason for this is so i can let the car idle and not wake everyone up. only when im driving away.. :lol: !!