Ultimate winter mode? Problems and solutions..., also, in cab heater anyone? - page 1 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Ultimate winter mode? Problems and solutions..., also, in cab heater anyone? by Enslaved_Pickle on 12 Dec, 2013 08:45
• So, I thought I would be ready for winter this year, but I guess not.
  Specs- 1.9 aaz freshly rebuilt pump, 250,000k "ish" on the motor, timed to .97mm
  
  I bout,
  -new winter tires
  -new bosch duraterms
  -new rad
  -new thermostat
  -new heatercore
  -new oem battery
  -made custom glow plug bus bar
  -only use fully synthetic Castrol edge in the motor and redline mt-90 in trans
  
  But this morning I went to start the car (in Windsor Ontario) and it was 12F or -11 and 85% humidity, and had some problems for the first time. The car started pretty well up until this point, and it had only sat for a day. I cycled the glow plugs 3 times like I usually do in the winter and it started right up like it usually does, but then after a minute or so (about the time the afterglow stops I'm assuming) the car shook and died. It did this 2 more times before it decided to stay running, on the last crank I almost killed the battery, I know a lot of you live in colder climates then me so your input would be appreciated
  
  My questions for the gurus
  
  1.) should I be expecting this behavior at these temps without a block heater? Or should I be checking compression and doing rings?
  
  2.) I like the stock glow plug relay, but should I be installing a push button bypass to keep them glowing if need be?
  
  3.) I'm also entertaining the idea of installing a diesel powered cab heater since I'm usually back home after dropping off the wife and the car is still cold, even with cardboard blocking half the rad. Anyone done this? Does it keep the interior "toasty"??
  
  Pics for clicks In the process of painting white
  
• #1 by TylerDurden on 12 Dec, 2013 09:13
• A block heater should not be needed until subzero, unless low compression. I'd check compression first... Always good to know anyway.
  
  A block heater is also nice for ready cabin heat, but a good heater core can deliver comfortable cabin temps in 10min of surface street operation.
  
  You might block the entire grille, instead of part of the radiator, it will block all ram-flow but still allow the fan to draw sufficient air through the radiator when needed.
  
  
• #2 by bbob203 on 12 Dec, 2013 09:20
• Its odd i have no problem getting heat in my mtdi in just a few minutes.
• #3 by RabbitJockey on 12 Dec, 2013 11:30
• did it smoke once when it started???
  
  i think if it is actually starting then compression or glow plugs isn't the issue, i think i'd be checking for  air in the fuel lines or a poor connection to the fuel stop solenoid.
• #4 by vwsb1974 on 12 Dec, 2013 11:35
• it could be the fuel gelling I don't at what temp diesel gells but that might be part of it
• #5 by bbob203 on 12 Dec, 2013 11:45
• That should not happen to diesel sold in canada or anything north of the mason dixon for that matter.
  only time i ever had an issue with gelling is when i bought an eco diesel in south carolina and it had been sitting since the summer between gelled fuel, cold temps in wv and an old fuel filter life was hard for that drive home..
• #6 by TylerDurden on 12 Dec, 2013 12:33
• ^ yup... BDTD.
  
  <10^oF  this morning... started my '86 1st try (I still need to put in winter oil).  I have recent compression readings somewhere... this motor got a HG last winter.
  
  It could be a bubble of air near the tank, making its way to the IP in a minute or two. Do these have water-separators?
• #7 by Enslaved_Pickle on 12 Dec, 2013 14:25
• Not really any smoke,
  
  I forgot about the possibility of air, the though didn't cross my mind since i rebuilt and checked everything last january when i built the car,
  
  -tank is clean
  - lines are free of cracks and pinholes
  - new fuel filter "has 30,000k on it now"
  
  But i left the check valves in :/ I pressure checked them under water before i reinstalled them but i do get the occasional bubble in the pump inlet line.
  
  So to the people that have deleted the check valves do you have any trouble with the car running if you're climbing a mountain or after you parked on a hill?
• #8 by bbob203 on 12 Dec, 2013 15:03
• unless your tank is near empty you should have no issues. I have no check valves on my mtdi passat or my mk2 eco. 
• #9 by 8v-of-fury! on 12 Dec, 2013 19:22
• A few air bubbles in the IN line every now and again seem to be fairly normal.
  
  I run a 12v electric pump, that is 12v keyed hot.. so if I ever have loss of prime for whatever reason, it is a non-issue and I am not stranded because of it.
• #10 by the caveman on 14 Dec, 2013 12:03
• Sounds like it ran with the fuel that was in the pump and lines, then stalled because the fuel filter is frozen. At 30,000 kms your fuel filter is due to be changed. Any small amount of water will freeze the element with that much mileage.
  
• #11 by ORCoaster on 14 Dec, 2013 18:49
• After reading this botton to top I have to agree with The Caveman,  too much time on the fuel filter and with the drop in temps your out of fuel at the filter after start up.  Pull the filter off and change it.  Drain it into a glass jar after it warms up to 35 or so and see if there is water in there.  It doesn't take much when conditions get like you describe. 
  
  Why don' t you have heat?  Plugged system somewhere?  Bad valve?  I would also entirely block the radiator.  Had to do it all the time on the Jeep.  Still got plenty of air from underneath when moving. 
  
  
• #12 by libbydiesel on 14 Dec, 2013 20:43
• The cold air entering the engine compartment can make the engine run colder, but the cold air going through the radiator has no effect unless the thermostat is not working.  In other words, placing a piece of cardboard behind the radiator will raise coolant temps the same as a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.  The temperature of the coolant in the radiator does not affect the temperature of the coolant in the engine or heater circuit until the thermostat is not functioning properly or is fully open which never happens in cold weather. 
• #13 by Enslaved_Pickle on 15 Dec, 2013 19:52
• It almost stalled again today so i'll be replacing the fuel filter next chance i get. And it does have heat, it just takes about 23 minutes or more to heat up (according to gauge) and even when it does its not very hot, when it snows or rains all the windows fog up, and the passengers are never warm, ....deleted ac when i got the car however.......
  
  Last winter (running 2.0 gas) the heat was hot enough to remove fog off all windows, the only thing i can think of is the aftermarket thermostat (carquest..not oem) opens too soon and stays open
• #14 by vanbcguy on 17 Dec, 2013 12:44
• Or the foam on the blend door has failed, which is super duper uber common. Had any little foam chunks blowing out of your vents lately?