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govenor modding
by
ejust
on 23 Mar, 2005 12:52
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ive been reading preivous posts on this govenor (spring rate) mod. Question i have is how bad does it affect fuel milage. i would like more driveability, not if its gonna kill my milage. At @2.39/gal (US), i cant afford sacrifing too much. And does anyone have pics of this mod by chance??
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#1
by
VWRacer
on 23 Mar, 2005 14:02
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#2
by
foxracer1
on 27 Mar, 2005 13:28
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Will this work on N/A engines?
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#3
by
vwmike
on 27 Mar, 2005 16:36
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I haven't really been able to ascertain what exactly the goal is of the governor mod? What are we trying to do within the pump?
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#4
by
dieselpower
on 27 Mar, 2005 16:56
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the govenor start tapering off fuel at about 3500 rpm iirc. by modding it you are able to get full fueling up to redline then it starts to taper it off then. or just remove it and rev to 6000+ rpm. and hp is toque x rpm/5252 so therefore you are able to get more power.
hope this helps
Mark
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#5
by
vwmike
on 27 Mar, 2005 17:34
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the govenor start tapering off fuel at about 3500 rpm iirc. by modding it you are able to get full fueling up to redline then it starts to taper it off then. or just remove it and rev to 6000+ rpm. and hp is toque x rpm/5252 so therefore you are able to get more power.
hope this helps
Mark
Ok, how does the governor work exactly? What are we doing by increasing spring tension?
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#6
by
jtanguay
on 27 Mar, 2005 20:10
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increase tension makes it withstand more, so the governor doesnt kick in until higher rpm's
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#7
by
dieselpower
on 27 Mar, 2005 20:38
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there are lttle flywieghts in the pump...the faster the engine turns the more pressure it puts on the springs and when they start to move it decreases the fuel. becasue it works like this it cant just cut out the fuel all at once, so to have it cut out at where it does it starts tapering it off way earlier. so by shimming the spring you basically increase the amount of force it takes to start moving the spring, so it take a higher rpm before it takes away the fuel. if you are going to try this i recomend you find an old scrap pump and take it apart to see how it works, so you dont screw up your good one.
good luck
Mark
-edit-
yes, it will work an all rotary pumps.
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#8
by
vwmike
on 27 Mar, 2005 20:58
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I'll have to take a bit closer look. I have several pumps. I just like to have a clear understanding of how everything works. I not only want to know what the mods are, but how and why they work. I find that the first step to improving any system is understanding how it works in the first place. :wink:
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#9
by
dieselpower
on 28 Mar, 2005 00:23
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if i find the time, ill go mod one tonite and post a pic by pic explanation on how to do it.
as far as how it works, basically what u are doing when u push on the gas, is pull a spring. at lower rpm's that spring just acts as a conector hooking the throttle are to the actual internal linkage. there are flyweights pushing a rod at the linkage. when the engine speeds up the flyweights push out harder and harder till the rod's force will overcome the spring tension. once this happens the rod starts moving the throttle linkage back farther and farther untill it's not putting out enough fuel to turn the motor any faster, another way to move the linkage back is to take your foot off the gas. anyway, because this all relys on centrifugal force, it happens in a linear motion due to rpm. so in oreder for it to take away all the fuel so it only revs to 4800 rpm, it has to strat cutting it out at 3500 rpm.
anyone correct me if i'm wrong, but i think i got it.
hope this helps
Mark
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#10
by
vwmike
on 28 Mar, 2005 01:03
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So what would be the disadvantage of making the internal linkage peice solid (like welding it all together or machining a replacement)?
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#11
by
vwmike
on 28 Mar, 2005 04:02
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So, I've been doing some searching and reading and I see tha Jake says it would cause some issues with the LDA to have a solid linkage. One of the other things was the an old thread on here about the governor mods and travel of the timing advance plunger. It was noted that the 1.5 had a more aggressive advance, so why not use the 1.5 spring in the 1.6 pump?
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#12
by
dieselpower
on 28 Mar, 2005 05:09
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im not too sure of what would happen if it were all one peice, but all i can say is don't try it. anyway now your talking about a whole different spring with the timing advance. you can use the 1.5 spring in it i guess, but im not too sure of how much better it would be.
i didnt have time to take a pump apart, but i found these pics.
basically, this is how the govenor works except the spring at the top, the one we are concerned about, is a little different.
this is a pic of how the spring you have looks like. what you want to do is shim the main spring or replace it with something solid.
here are some pics of the springs and the pump i have.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/418501/3Mark
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#13
by
vwmike
on 28 Mar, 2005 05:47
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hmm...so I guess our goal with all of this is just to raise spring pressure so that the counterweights that swing out due to centrifugal force cannot push the metering pin (of sorts) back toward the lever which is controlled through the throttle shaft. I'll have to go play with my pumps tomorrow.
Thank you for the explanation!
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#14
by
steel-jaw-sasha
on 28 Mar, 2005 10:13
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had ago myself from a previous thread by DVST8R , sorry don't know how to put a link to this topic. My engine is a 1.6td in a 1989 Jetta which I have for spares, thought I would give it ago , nothing to loose. The engine runs fine and revs freely, unfortunatly the car is not road worthy so a full test cannot be carried out. I will have to wait until I fit the engine to my caddy. Here are a few pics I took whilst doing the job.
http://homepage.mac.com/keithsasha/