gknight1216 on 10 Jun, 2024 16:53 in IDI Engine
Thanks for adding me to the group. I have a Grumman Kubvan which originally had a 1.6 NA and automatic transmission (010?)I am swapping out to an AAZ 1.9 which was out of a manual car.The automatic trans bolts up the AAZ fine but the starter won't fit as the turbo return lines on the AAZ get in the way.We tried a starter for a gas engine and it fits but does not have enough power to turn the AAZ fast enough to start.Anyone have any suggestions? I am considering fitting a manual trans but would prefer to keep the Kubbie interior as stock as possible.I've seen some mid to late 80s vanagons had AAZs and automatics??Any guidance for this newbie is appreciated!
Buji88 on 10 Jun, 2024 11:48 in IDI Engine
Hopefully that is it. I'm going to weld up that hole tonight so going to have it in by this weekend. There was a surprising amount of debris in the transfer pump and the vanes could move, but not well. 3/4 would shift inside the housing while turning but one just wouldn't come out at all, there is a pretty decent layer of varnish so I wonder if it also wasn't working that great and kind of starving it for fuel.
Dennis Froelich on 10 Jun, 2024 10:51 in IDI Engine
Thanks for the update sir!!
as4k on 09 Jun, 2024 21:44 in IDI Engine
Small update. First, I still owe you guys a starting video. I'll get on that this week. We moved a few months ago, had the car show in PA, and just got back from a cruise, so things have been busy and I have not done many car related things. I did however put down a list of things I need to get done on this thing. I also hooked up the new battery and gave the car a start, idle, and to see if it moved (since I messed with the clutch cable many months ago).I'll let you guys weigh in on the starting when I post the video. I still need to see why injector 4 is slightly leaking, but I do have a replacement to toss in. The engine actually seems to vibrate more than it used to when it was at my other home in the garage. I'll check the engine mounts and such there. I did try to move the car and it does move in reverse and 1st! Clutch engagement seems good, but the pedal needs some adjusting as it doesnt fully return. I'm more of a hydraulic clutch guy so this is all new stuff. Cable is brand new OEM.Lastly, I did buy some actual timing tools (dial indicator) as well. My friend who is the VW diesel guru has some and has timed my engine and pump. Figure I'll learn how to do it myself so I can understand too. When I pull the crank sandwich off to replace the crank bolt I'll have us verify the timing again. More to come! Appreciate everyone here!
fatmobile on 08 Jun, 2024 00:31 in IDI Engine
Because it's just one injector acting up, I don't think that could be caused by timing. I'm not sure what the local bosch service center would charge just to test them. Probably wouldn't be much.
ORCoaster on 07 Jun, 2024 22:07 in IDI Engine
Timing should be OK where you have it ghostrider2. Fatmobile, there are those on this forum that will shake their heads at that reforming habit of yours. But I am of like mind and manner. As long as you inspect them well for cracks in the center and replace them when they show up I can't see why reuse isn't a good thing. I do have a set of 4 on hand at all times however should I need them. I would hate to get stuck taking all of them off and having a mass failure event happen and need them to get back up and running.
ORCoaster on 07 Jun, 2024 22:02 in IDI Engine
Nice detective work guy. Hope it gets sorted out and runs smoothly from now on.
Buji88 on 07 Jun, 2024 12:03 in IDI Engine
Well I think I figured it out....I put vacuum to it and it held good, was able to build about 15 inch on it with no drops. I tore it down to access the timing piston to check the advance and make sure it was all good. I noticed the cold start assist (the thing that runs from top of the housing down to the timing piston that has the electrical connection) had stripped badly. You could grab about 1 thread at the bottom but it won't tighten fully. I think either A) The threads were damaged at a past point, and when I took it off to change the seals on the covers (which is when all this started), I finished off the threads, or they cracked. B) I had cross-threaded it on the original install, but I didn't feel anything wrong ever retightening that banjo bolt. But either way, you could kind of tighten it, and I suspect during running and vibration that it would be able to pull air in there. I'm also pretty sure that the chunks of threads likely ended up in the pump. I had a spare pump that wasn't turning, and I loaded it with sea foam and let it soak for a couple of days, and now it spins. I pulled the head off of it as well, and it was very serviceable looking inside, so I'm going to clean it up, fully reseal it, and, well, hopefully, that's it!
ghostrider2 on 07 Jun, 2024 07:41 in IDI Engine
Alright. Thanks for the tips. Time to source an injector tester. No one thinks it’s still the timing?
fatmobile on 06 Jun, 2024 23:42 in IDI Engine
Yep, it is nice to have an injector tester nearby. Then I reform the heat shields before reusing them.