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Bosch VE injector pump rebuild opinion wanted
by
overdrivegear
on 15 May, 2007 14:13
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If I'm going to go to the trouble of taking apart the entire injection pump and reseal it, would it make the most sense to go ahead and replace the high pressure rotor and feed pump or just leave these parts in if they pass the 'visual inspection'?
And as far as re-calibration, all I need is the dial indicator and the instructions outlined in the Haynes Manual?
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#1
by
jtanguay
on 15 May, 2007 15:08
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if your pump is original on the 81 motor, i would go for a new rotor while it's all apart...
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#2
by
burn_your_money
on 15 May, 2007 15:28
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recalibration is more so making sure the pump is injecting equal amounts etc.
The tools you are refering to are for timing, which are also needed.
If you get a new rotor I'd seriously look into getting it calibrated
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#3
by
Vincent Waldon
on 15 May, 2007 16:13
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Tough question... you got her all apart, why not do it up right ? Certainly when I rebuild an engine I replace everything under the sun.... why not a pump ??
I guess I'd ask myself... what problems am I having with with the pump now? Seals ?? Does it take a long time to prime (vane pump) ?
My personal answer: it's really not very difficult to tear these pumps apart actually, (couple of hours + an hour to R&R) so I do a serious visual inspection and if things "look fine" and my only problem is leakage then I'll reseal and call it a day.
All the real pump jockeys out there are yelling "what can he mean by looks fine.. these are precision devices" and I totally agree, but my experience with these pumps is that the wear has to be reasonably obvious to the naked eye to translate into real-world symptoms. Maybe I've just been lucky... but I actually think Bosch built them really well in the first place, and the design hasn't changed much literally in decades... must be doing something right.
Long story short... the seals seem to wear out long before the vane or distributor, so I reseal, check carefully for scuffing or other signs of wear or abuse, and if some day it stops priming I'll pull her apart again and do the vane pump. Probably need seals again by then since we'll be running on ultra ultra ultra ultra ultra low sulfur fuel !!!
Just my opinion... can't believe I'm not recommending the "for gods sake do it up right mate" approach I take to everything else mechanical...
Vince
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#4
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 15 May, 2007 17:22
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Tough question... you got her all apart, why not do it up right ? Certainly when I rebuild an engine I replace everything under the sun.... why not a pump ??
I guess I'd ask myself... what problems am I having with with the pump now? Seals ?? Does it take a long time to prime (vane pump) ?
My personal answer: it's really not very difficult to tear these pumps apart actually, (couple of hours + an hour to R&R) so I do a serious visual inspection and if things "look fine" and my only problem is leakage then I'll reseal and call it a day.
All the real pump jockeys out there are yelling "what can he mean by looks fine.. these are precision devices" and I totally agree, but my experience with these pumps is that the wear has to be reasonably obvious to the naked eye to translate into real-world symptoms. Maybe I've just been lucky... but I actually think Bosch built them really well in the first place, and the design hasn't changed much literally in decades... must be doing something right.
Long story short... the seals seem to wear out long before the vane or distributor, so I reseal, check carefully for scuffing or other signs of wear or abuse, and if some day it stops priming I'll pull her apart again and do the vane pump. Probably need seals again by then since we'll be running on ultra ultra ultra ultra ultra low sulfur fuel !!!
Just my opinion... can't believe I'm not recommending the "for gods sake do it up right mate" approach I take to everything else mechanical...
Vince
IMO it makes a lot of sense. These pumps are very well built and unless they've been abused (unfiltered fuel or vegetable oil) or seized from long term exposition to air, they should last a very long time.
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#5
by
rod1e
on 16 May, 2007 00:49
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You've got the whole pump in bits??
OK, I've got a couple of questions for you...
I was looking at the pump from my 1983 transporter and took the throttle levers off and noticed the shaft can be pushed down into the pump. When it's pushed in there is no more "springback" on it. Is it meant to do that?? ...and....
because I didn't mark the throttle lever position on the shaft, how crucial is the "index" position? Do I just wind the spring up so it just pulls the lever back to the stops? (before I put the main spring back on)
I need to swap the levers on a pump I'm putting into my syncro so I was just trying it out on a couple of other pumps I've got...
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#6
by
jimfoo
on 16 May, 2007 06:33
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because I didn't mark the throttle lever position on the shaft, how crucial is the "index" position? Do I just wind the spring up so it just pulls the lever back to the stops? (before I put the main spring back on).
Having recently done the governor mod, and having not marked the shaft either, I think I can answer this. It is fairly critical. Either you will have no power, or your engine will run away at full rpm. I was luckily on the slow side, then went a tiny bit too far, but was able to adjust it back with the throttle stop screw, residual fuel screw might be it's real name.
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#7
by
rwest1
on 16 May, 2007 06:34
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Mr. Waldon hit the nail on the head!! If your pump was working ok, other than creating an oil slick in the driveway. It will probably work ok after the reseal/rebush work. However, you should always do a close inspection of all parts and use your best judgement as to what parts may be close to end of service life. The vane pump which is a critical part can usually be pressure tested/adjusted (unless you have a gusher leak) and verified before you even tear into IP. Regards
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#8
by
rod1e
on 18 May, 2007 00:18
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#9
by
jimfoo
on 18 May, 2007 05:48
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#10
by
Vincent Waldon
on 19 May, 2007 13:40
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