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#15
by
saurkraut
on 02 Apr, 2007 11:13
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#16
by
addautomotive
on 02 Apr, 2007 11:58
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Like jtanguay said, just open the oil cap and look down. If you see the cam, then you don't have the baffle. If you see black plastic, you do have it.
The good advice has already been given:
-Change the oil, because you really don't know what's in there or how long it's been in there
-Put the baffle in
-If the baffle doesn't help, you may have to divert the crankcase vent
If left unchecked, the problem can get bad enough that you won't be able to shut the engine off with the key. It will run off the engine oil, and you'll have to stall it to stop it. I've had that happen before; you want to avoid it.
Furthermore, you'll want to address this before you move onto biodiesel or SVO. You don't want to be troubleshooting car problems and fuel problems at the same time. Ask me how I know
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#17
by
dieselsnowmobile
on 02 Apr, 2007 12:59
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Here is what I did to vent the crankcase blow-by. This helped the engine make it another 3,000 miles before it developed a huge oil leak. I would recommend venting the air to the back of the car with a long hose.
Since you are using this car as your senior project using B100, I would imagine that you want this car to promote clean air. You will probably show this car off every chance you get. With this in mind, venting the blow-by out into the air is NOT what you want to do then. The smoke from the blow-by is white, foggy, and stinks. It would not help your project to have one exhaust smell like french fries and this other exhaust to be smokey and stink. There is a reason why the blow-by is fed back into the engine to be burned and that is to reduce emissions.
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#18
by
vegfuel
on 02 Apr, 2007 18:41
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"Ask me how I know " from addautomotive
I dying to know
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#19
by
vegfuel
on 02 Apr, 2007 18:45
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So tonight I took everyones advice and went out to see if I had an oil baffle and low and behold, I do. So then I took her for a spin up and down our long drive way with the breather hose disconnected from the valve cover. She still wants to go when you rev to high.
I can't do a rebuild now because I am to busy and not enough money. I'm thinking it will be ok for my biodiesel.
Anyone here think different?
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#20
by
addautomotive
on 02 Apr, 2007 19:59
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I can't do a rebuild now because I am to busy and not enough money. I'm thinking it will be ok for my biodiesel.
Anyone here think different?
Yeah, personally I think you're in for a world of pain. But heck, sometimes the hard lessons are the best lessons.
Here is what I've learned (very slowly):
If you can't afford to do it right, you REALLY can't afford to do it wrong.
Find a way to bypass the crankcase vent. You may even be able to jerry rig a catch bottle that will collect the liquid oil, but still burn off the fumes.
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#21
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Apr, 2007 21:03
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Turn this screw in 1/4 turn and see what happens
You need to loosen the 13mm lock nut
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#22
by
jtanguay
on 02 Apr, 2007 21:13
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if you can't afford doing a proper rebuild, then go to the store and buy wynn's oil stop leak and throw it in. it sucks for cold weather though, just to forewarn you!
it did stop nearly all oil burning in my '86 TD which had new rings but not honed.
i think it's less than $10. thick and gooey! that will get you going for now. most people say not to use that stuff, but then again, its not most people who really want to spend hundreds of dollars to fix an old car.
wait it might be called stop smoke now... not too sure! just make sure you get the stuff that says stops oil burning!!!
that is what it should look like.
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#23
by
vegfuel
on 02 Apr, 2007 21:23
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What the heck, I'll try it. I've tried to loosen the fuel screw to see if it would calm down but that didn't work. I don't even know what rpms the engine is set at.
My mentor for my project has a Mercedes TD. Maybe I should hold off on using the Rabbit for bio just yet and see if someone else would test it for me. I don't even have bioD compadible hoses or seals yet!
So, burn_your_money, what is the 13mm lock nut?
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#24
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Apr, 2007 21:40
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It's been a while since I messed with that screw. You need to loosen a 13mm nut and then you can adjust the screw. You should probably start by making 1/8 turn adjustments at a time and see what happens. Expect a power loss by doing this
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#25
by
fatmobile
on 02 Apr, 2007 23:41
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So then I took her for a spin up and down our long drive way with the breather hose disconnected from the valve cover. She still wants to go when you rev to high.
It doesn't sound like it's reving too high, sounds like it just doesn't drop back down after you let off the fuel.
If you disconnected the crankcase vent from the intake and it still does it, it wasn't burning oil.
If you backed off the max fuel screw and it still does it (not overfueling), I'd say the injectors are spraying funny and leaving some fuel in the cylinder after the burn... so it burns the next time around.
I haven't read the whole thread in awhile but if the throttle isn't sticking (first thing to check),
... I'd pull the injectors and test them.
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#26
by
jtanguay
on 03 Apr, 2007 00:49
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what if the rings were so bad that the oil was shooting past them??? worst case scenario of course...
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#27
by
jimfoo
on 03 Apr, 2007 05:06
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So then I took her for a spin up and down our long drive way with the breather hose disconnected from the valve cover. She still wants to go when you rev to high.
It doesn't sound like it's reving too high, sounds like it just doesn't drop back down after you let off the fuel.
If you disconnected the crankcase vent from the intake and it still does it, it wasn't burning oil.
If you backed off the max fuel screw and it still does it (not overfueling), I'd say the injectors are spraying funny and leaving some fuel in the cylinder after the burn... so it burns the next time around.
I haven't read the whole thread in awhile but if the throttle isn't sticking (first thing to check),
... I'd pull the injectors and test them.
How about the residual fuel screw also? After my IP mod, I had to unscrew it a little because after blipping the throttle, the engine speed would stay up there and not come down to idle.
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#28
by
vegfuel
on 03 Apr, 2007 11:24
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It is a funny situation. She always starts right up. Even in the cold weather of northeastern Washington. So the compression is good. I was thinking about contacting the owner before the previous owner to see if he knows what's wrong. Also another thing: the Rabbit came without a fuel cap and there is not a little metal sealer like on gasoline cars, just a straight hole, so I imagine moisture was allowed in the fuel. Thanks alot from everyone for all the input. I'm learning more each day.
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#29
by
vegfuel
on 03 Apr, 2007 14:17
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burn_your_money,
How in the world do you loosen that 13mm nut? It's on there pretty good like someone has stuck some LocTite on the threads.