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#15
by
as4k
on 04 Feb, 2024 20:07
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Thanks guys! The tiny tach is something I had never heard of and sounds pretty interesting. This will be a good option if I cant figure out something with a factory Audi tach. Will keep you all posted!
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#16
by
RabbitJockey
on 05 Feb, 2024 08:25
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
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#17
by
as4k
on 05 Feb, 2024 08:40
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
Well, I got this project with the engine in pieces, basically. Looking back at photos from when I got it, the crank bolt was sinched on there so I assumed it was correct from when the bottom end was rebuilt. I am def not one to assume though! I have the PN for the correct crank bolt and washer. The CY has some specific pulleys and it appears all of those on the engine now are correct. I have had a few friends send photos of various engines with this code, so those have helped.
I've never been an artist, but this car has been like painting without a brush, to put it lightly
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#18
by
RabbitJockey
on 05 Feb, 2024 09:39
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#19
by
as4k
on 05 Feb, 2024 11:04
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I'll ask Casey to see if there were any specifics that he remembers. From what I know its a proper CY block but I figured that was an Audi only engine code? EDIT - I did find out that the block came from a Jetta TD, so not an Audi like I originally thought.
If you zoom in you can see what was on there when I got the car. Looks like a standard hex head bolt with a large washer.
I use 7zap all too often for stuff. This shows what options there are depending on code and such.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/Lots of good information here. I appreciate everyone chiming in on this stuff because there could be things on the car that may be incorrect and I just dont know it. I never did take the crank sprocket off to check if it was a woodruff key.
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#20
by
RabbitJockey
on 05 Feb, 2024 11:59
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i think cy could be in an audi or vw.
I am not 100% sure on the bolt, but from what i have seen 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm 6pt crank bolt with washer, 12mm/81 and later engines had a 19mm which i believe is 12pt but maybe that is only the later engines like aaz/ahu.
maybe someone more experience can chime in. I dont think it's anything to be concerned with, the later crank sprockets are stronger/more reliable but i wouldn't be worried either way so long as everything is torqued to spec.
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#21
by
as4k
on 05 Feb, 2024 13:31
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I think I was more concerned that if I needed to crank the engine by hand, I really couldnt from down there unless I took off the crank pulley sandwich.
Of course, this is just one of a handful of things I'll investigate and fix when the car is moved.
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#22
by
fatmobile
on 05 Feb, 2024 19:53
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
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#23
by
as4k
on 05 Feb, 2024 20:36
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
The photo I had didnt originally work so I'm reposting it. LOL, yeah, the chain was a bit overkill but its what my friend had
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 05 Feb, 2024 21:40
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
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#25
by
as4k
on 06 Feb, 2024 13:46
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
Agreed. I'll snag the correct bolt based on the parts catalog. Just figured it was correct from when I acquired everything.
Appreciate the continued help here!!
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#26
by
RabbitJockey
on 06 Feb, 2024 14:01
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i am curious what you'll get a replacement. I think the pulley is probably the problem, like it is intended for an older 17mm crank but this is a later engine, it is an 81 which was the cross over year for 11mm/12mm head bolts.
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#27
by
fatmobile
on 06 Feb, 2024 20:47
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yeah man, what is going on with that pully?
I've never seen a pully that covered the bolt like that.
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#28
by
ORCoaster
on 06 Feb, 2024 22:10
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Maybe it is from an Audi and not a VW part at all. Might look into that angle and see what comes up. With all the tweaking I do on my VW I find it hard to work on it if I couldn't turn the crank manually. I mean how do you even time that thing?
Oh, by ear of course. Sounds good let it go. Hey in cold weather I have to crank on it so long my battery dies. OH, that is good to hear. Maybe measure the timing next time.
Rant and Rant some more
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#29
by
fatmobile
on 07 Feb, 2024 19:00
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I usually turn the crank, to set the timing,
by putting it in 5th and rolling it.
Grab the driver's side wheel and turn it.
That way I can look in the timing hole and line up the marks.
I usually rotate the engine by putting a socket on it to get close first.
But I can't see the timing marks from that end.
Gotta turn the crank a couple times after a new belt to see how it tracks and make sure nothing is hitting.
So yeah, that would kinda piss me off if I couldn't put a socket on that bolt.