-
#30
by
BuckyMK2
on 24 Nov, 2023 15:13
-
-
#31
by
ORCoaster
on 24 Nov, 2023 21:21
-
post pictures to a third-party site, like Dropbox. Then copy the link from there and put it in between the two brackets that say img when you click on the box below the
Bold box on the left side of those selections above.
-
#32
by
fatmobile
on 25 Nov, 2023 00:51
-
A search showed this vortex thread that lists that part number and has a picture.
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/the-claude-build-thread.9543445/Post #8 has a picture of the part.
I've never seen one before. Not sure what air it would filter.
There is supposed to be a plastic piece on the inner fender, that the airbox intake hooks to.
I think it's the same place an NA intake connects to.
-
#33
by
BuckyMK2
on 25 Nov, 2023 09:37
-
Sweet, I have that plastic piece from the NA so I’ll try to make them connect. Thanks for the help with the photos.
-
#34
by
BuckyMK2
on 10 Dec, 2023 22:13
-
I’ve been hotwiring the plugs for a bit since it’s getting cold again. So far I’ve replaced the glow plug relay, metal fuse on the firewall, and the coolant temp sensor. I’ve been following the troubleshooting guide from the Bentley. I have continuity from terminal 87 to the glow plug fuse, so there’s no issue in the wire there. I do NOT have continuity from terminal T and ground, signifying an issue with the temperature sensor or wire. I’ve already replaced this but I went ahead and disconnected the connector because that should open the circuit and the light should come on (right? Even if I’m wrong I jumped the terminals in the connector and still didn’t get a light on the dash.) I checked to see if I have voltage between terminals 30 and 85 (power from battery and ground within the socket in the relay panel.) Zero voltage. “Either the fuses are blown, there is a break or a short in the wiring to the positive battery terminal, or the ground from terminal 85 is faulty.” Any ideas what I should check next? I’m not really sure how to approach the possible problems that the Bentley states. At this point I just want to manually wire them to a switch on the dash but I don’t want to give up on this.
-
#35
by
fatmobile
on 11 Dec, 2023 00:30
-
No continuity from T to ground? Was the temp sender wire grounded at the sensor (not on the sensor) when you did this?
When my T sensor is disconnected the dash light comes on and the glow plug relay closes.
Instead of checking voltage between 30 and 85.
Measure voltage from 30 to ground and 85 to ground.
On my factory setup (rabbit MK1) the glow plug fuse is after the glow plug relay, just before the glow plugs.
You might have the glow plug power supply wire disconnected from the battery.
You jumped some terminal on the back of the glow plug relay.
Were they 30 and 85?
-
#36
by
BuckyMK2
on 14 Dec, 2023 04:21
-
I found some incorrect wiring in my CE2 box. I jumped the wire from 30 to 30B on the back of the fuse box that was previously in the wrong spot, and now I have power to the relay. However, I ONLY get power to the relay when I test grounds outside of the fuse box. When I test terminal 85, the ground of the glow plug relay, my multimeter shows 0 volts. According to the circuit diagram in my Bentley, it looks like terminal 85 grounds to the temperature sensor itself. I got continuity from the blue/white wire in the back of the fuse box to the temp sensor connector. I still don't get continuity from T to ground, regardless of if the engine temp sensor is connected or disconnected. I'm pretty stumped on what's wrong with the ground. Could the temp sensor being bad cause this?
-
#37
by
fatmobile
on 14 Dec, 2023 19:51
-
So you have fat red wire to the relay and it now has power because you moved (is that what jumped means?) the source to 30 B on the fuse box right?
I don't understand why that fat red wire only has power when you are testing ground wires outside the fuse box.
85 shows 0 volts when you have a good ground connection on your negative lead on your meter?
I don't believe 85 goes to the temp sensor. I believe that is ground for the glow plug relay coil,.. always grounded.
85 is the ground for nearly all relays, they go to 31/ground.
T goes to the temp sensor, blue/white.
"I got continuity from the blue/white wire in the back of the fuse box to the temp sensor connector"
Continuity from the blue/white to what temp sensor connector?
The one in the engine bay? The one on the back of the relay?
Do you mean you got it from the back of the glow plug relay,.. or really from the fuse box?
You have to be more clear about what you are doing, earlier you were testing your grounds,.. not sure what that means.
For voltage? For continuity to ground?
I'm sure it makes sense to you but I'm lost on where your meter wires are connected and what you are testing for.
What's the ohms of the temp sensor?
Measuring from the connector to ground.
Sometimes folks think they need teflon tape on the sensor.
That can keep it from grounding.
-
#38
by
BuckyMK2
on 14 Dec, 2023 23:46
-
Ignore the part about jumping 30 to 30B, I put the wires back where they were and I have voltage from 30 to ground by the fuse box (I just wasn't grounding the black multimeter lead well enough.)
Here's the circuit diagram. I was looking at the "85" that's circled at the bottom of the page on circuit path 35, it's listed as an "engine compartment harness ground." But now I see that the relay is grounded to 31 at the top of the diagram. Does 31 refer to a specific ground near the fuse box?
I noticed some fraying in the insulation of the wires going into the coolant temperature sensor (on the coolant flange) so I went ahead and cut them and I'll repin the connector tomorrow. The wires are currently loose and not grounded to anything. I noticed I could hear the relay turning on and off (not sure if this has anything to do with the wires being loose, I guess I'll find out after I repin the connector.) I measured 12V to the bus bar for about 20 seconds, just how its supposed to be, then it dropped to 0 when the relay opened as expected. I was able to start the car with ease, but then the 12V returned to the bus bar while the car was running. I know the MK3s have "afterglow" where the plugs stay on for a few minutes after start, but I was under the impression that the MK2s didn't. So I'm pretty sure I have an issue there where the plugs are constantly on when the car is running. I should note the dash light still never comes on, I'm gonna ensure the bulb isn't burnt out and I have continuity from the relay to the cluster tomorrow. Also going to repin that coolant temp sensor connector and replace the sensor itself for peace of mind.
Sorry for being unclear, I don't really know what I'm talking about and it's even harder to put it into text. I really appreciate you trying to help me out though.
-
#39
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Dec, 2023 22:23
-
Good to read that it did cycle as it should.
The second cycle might have been the relay kicking back on for some reason. The wire unattached? Get it nailed down as the snow has already started in some areas in the USA. Maybe in your neck of the woods.
I need to double check the bus bar on my pickup. I have to hold the start button longer now than I used to and I am wondering if I have a good 12 vdc out there. Or maybe a bad glow plugs. I did replace one earlier last summer so there might be another to do now. Glad I bought spares.
-
#40
by
fatmobile
on 16 Dec, 2023 00:40
-
Great to hear you actually got power to the glow plugs.
If the key is turned off, then back on, the glow plugs will recycle.
So I would suspect maybe a loose 15 (ignition on) wire.
-
#41
by
ORCoaster
on 16 Dec, 2023 22:46
-
I put a timing light on mine today and found it to be at 1-2 Degrees BTC. Double-checked it with the Snap-On meter. So I pushed the pump towards the engine and now it starts on the first touch of the switch.
-
#42
by
BuckyMK2
on 03 Jan, 2024 21:26
-
Finally figured it out. I repinned the connector to the coolant temp sensor. I knew it worked because when I cycled the plugs for a second time, they only stayed on for a couple seconds. Previously when the sensor was disconnected/broken, the plugs would run for the normal 20ish seconds regardless of how many times they had been cycled. I ran the car for a few minutes and the plugs shut off. I guess the later CE2 MK2s do have the “afterglow” where the plugs stay on until the engine reaches a certain temp. My dash light still doesn’t work, so I’ll replace that sometime soon to make sure that the bulb was the problem. In the meantime I’m just happy to not have to pull the relay every time I drive haha. Thanks for all the help guys, glad this old forum is still alive and well.
-
#43
by
ORCoaster
on 03 Jan, 2024 22:32
-
Glad you sorted it out. I got mine running so well that I had trouble slowing it down. So I went to work on the brakes. I think I have that done and will just enjoy it for a while until something else breaks/ goes wonky on me.
-
#44
by
BuckyMK2
on 04 Aug, 2024 21:13
-
After a long while I finally picked up a 1.6td after a few other deals fell through. It's blown to bits, the turbo blew up and sent chunks of metal into the motor. Head is trashed, block needs rebuilt, but the manifolds + other parts will be perfect for my healthy NA motor. I had an experience a few months back where my alternator went bad, but due to the nature of an IDI diesel that runs on a couple wires, I never got stranded. I love how simple these motors are, which has led me to want to delete everything unnecessary when I pull the motor in the future. I've gotten parts to swap to a manual rack, and now I'd like to delete the AC. I've found a fellow MK2 owner whos parting out a diesel non-AC car and just want to make sure I pull all the right parts. I know this topic has been exhausted years ago but unfortunately most of the threads are dead...
Non-AC alternator, pulley, and adjustment bracket
Non-AC crank pulley
Non-AC water pump pulley
Anything I'm missing?
but I had a quick question. I mocked up my turbo diesel airbox (same one from this picture https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.9af96bc4cfa0d7b49a3ff1746bd2f16a?rik=MFIR4zSfmleLoQ&riu=http%3a%2f%2fi.imgur.com%2fm1ZGo.jpg&ehk=IL65yaj%2f%2bviWvxIP0TJYIEISKnaN1gdArILvWGxyyp0%3d&risl=&pid=ImgRaw&r=0 ) and intake hose just to see how it fit in the bay. I'm a bit confused if I'm missing a piece that joins the hole in the fender to the exit hose of the airbox, or if there's any way that the box mounts to the chassis. Once again its hard to describe without pictures so sorry about that. Also I had to remove this "air cleaner" (according to ancient VW part number 068-130-141) that was bolted to the fuel filter bracket. What's that, and does it matter if I remove it 