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Total N00b, 1990 Golf 1.6NA
by
dwhacks
on 12 May, 2020 23:37
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Hey all!
Bought my first VW the other day, I've been looking for a while, and finally found one cheap enough. It's a bit rough around the edges but if it grows on me enough I should be able to fix it up (stupid canadian winter salt rusting all our cars).
Anyway, I've been looking around and reading a lot about adding a turbo to the little NA. I know there are no oil squirters, I know you "need" and oil cooler, and I know most people say "you'd be better to swap a turbo engine it". Thing is, I live in a small town and often need stuff shipped or picked up by friends, and engines aren't cheap to ship!
SO, can I use basically any K03 from ebay? from and Audi and the like? or are the diesel K03's different.
NEXT, and this is the one thing I can't find into on. Hansautoparts has this boost enrichment injection pump top. Is this a viable solution? any gotchas?
and lastly, where should this thing idle? It has the advance/high idle see-saw thing on the injection pump, and when I got the car it idled around 1100rpm (according to tach). I have since adjusted the see-saw thing so it actually touched the stopper has brought the idle down to 950-1000. I can't seems to find much info on adjusting this part on the pump. Most seem to reference the other "idle" screw, which my understanding is that on this type of pump, its the see-saw part that effects the idle.
Anyway, looking forward to being a part of this community and wrenching on this car!
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#1
by
libbydiesel
on 13 May, 2020 01:05
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The diesel K03's are different. One from an AAZ or AHU/1Z would work with matching manifold. You also need quite a few other parts to complete the turbo conversion, though. The list is as follows: turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, oil filter flange, turbo oil supply line, turbo return line, oil pan, valve cover, oil separator/regulating valve, air filter and hose to turbo, hose from turbo to intake manifold, exhaust from turbo back, oil cooler, coolant hoses for oil cooler, oil pump and turbo injection pump. Some of the items on that list are more critical than others.
A word about Hans Auto Parts. A lot of their parts are terrible quality, some of their descriptions are not correct. Adding the aneroid top to a non-turbo pump is not totally straightforward. There is a pin pushed into the side of the pump that needs to be removed or the pump top will not work properly. I have done that conversion to several non-turbo pumps. I have even gotten a couple of the aneroid pump tops from Hans and they are a total crap shoot. All said and done you'd very likely be better off sourcing a complete working TD injection pump.
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#2
by
dwhacks
on 13 May, 2020 11:46
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That's too bad about the Hans stuff, but I had read that elsewhere as well. I will try and source a reasonably priced turbo pump, but if not, I will have to try the aneroid top.
Main thing with this project for me is that I want to do as much as I can myself and learn as much as possible.
What is the best manual I can get for this car? I've always gotten Haynes manuals for my other cars, but not sure what to look for now.
As for your list, there was only one or two surprises in there:
1. Valve cover, what is different?
2. oil separator/regulating valve, what is this?
Thanks!
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#3
by
libbydiesel
on 13 May, 2020 12:53
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The oil separator/pressure regulating valve looks like a black hockey puck mounted to the valve cover.
My understanding is that it serves two purposes. It works as a centrifugal oil separator taking some of the oil mist out of the crank vent and allowing it to drain back into the valve cover. More importantly, though, it closes if the pressure in the line going to the intake is markedly lower than the pressure coming from the valve cover. That valve closing prevents diesel runaway which could otherwise occur from a cause as simple as a blocked intake from a clogged air filter or collapsing intake hose. The TD valve cover allows that part to mount correctly, the non-turbo valve cover does not.
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#4
by
fatmobile
on 13 May, 2020 19:00
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Don't get a turbo pump.
It's designed to keep from smoking when boost is low.
It doesn't do anything else.
A 9mm pump will put out what a 9mm pump will put out.
Until the RPMs hang anyway and that will happen with both pumps.
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#5
by
libbydiesel
on 13 May, 2020 19:09
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I think that not smoking when boost is low is a worthwhile reason for installing a turbo pump. I don't like spewing smoke and I don't like needing to constantly watch my rear view mirror to regulate the smoke screen behind me.
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#6
by
dwhacks
on 13 May, 2020 23:35
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Well that's an interesting argument.
I suppose a turbo pump could be on the "later" list then? I could get it going with my NA pump, and then either add the turbo top, or find a tubro pump.
realistically, the engine probably needs a rebuild anyway, as its got unknown mileage.
Still wondering what the "stock" idle should be, and which service manual I should get?
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#7
by
libbydiesel
on 14 May, 2020 01:35
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The manual you should get depends a bit on your experience. The Haynes is more entry level. A2 Bentley manual is better than the Haynes or Chilton's IMO, but it is geared toward people who are more experienced and it gives technical information more than step-by-step repair procedures. I have both Haynes and Bentley manuals to cover A1, A2, A3 but I use the Bentley more in each case and almost never look at the Haynes. I also trust the info in the Bentley more. I got the A4 Bentley and haven't bothered with getting the A4 Haynes.
According to the Bentley, idle speed without the cold start pulled should be 850 +/- 30. With the cold start pulled to the first detent it should be 950 +/- 30 and at the second detent it should be 1050 +/- 30.
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#8
by
dwhacks
on 21 May, 2020 22:29
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Well the fun has begun! I have picked up a bunch of parts, that were too cheap to say no.
I picked up a complete ALH engine from a jetta wagon. I don't know many details because the car was in the crusher pile at the wrecker, so I could not get inside. The engine "maybe" had the timing belt jump, the wrecker wasn't sure. Either way, I got the whole thing for $50.
So I have the VNT15 and intake manifold for my 1.6. I will need to come up with oil feed and weld an oil drain bung on the pan. Where is the best place to pick up the oil feed from? (very new to these engines). and what is the fitting on the turbo? recommendations? I haven't gotten far into it yet.
Can the "black hockey puck" from the ALH be retrofitted onto the 1.6NA? short piece of hose and hose clamps maybe?
I will probably use the map sensor from the ALH, and rig up a throttle position sensor and use an Arduino for VNT control. I've found a few examples online to build from.
Any recommendations thus far? I'm not really looking for all out power, or even reliability. Just something to have fun an learn something new.
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#9
by
fatmobile
on 22 May, 2020 00:57
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For my VNT-15 projects I grab oil from the top of the oil filter.
I use a 1/8" NPT to 5/16" compression fitting.
5/16" easy bend brake line.
The fitting on the turbo works with a 5/16" ferrel and compression fitting.