-
Let the VNT 1.5 Rabbit project begin! by rabbid79 on 29 Jun, 2006 23:26
-
Well, we're going to find out just how much abuse the little 1.5 can take. All of these mods are being added to an otherwise stock 1.5 D. The idea is to let this motor do what it does best - rev. I won't need to make massive torque to get good HP out of it. There should be plenty of torque from 2000 to 6000 RPM, which my 4-speed will love. Of course this project isn't just about burning more fuel to make more HP. I also want to improve driveability, and reduce parasitic power loss wherever possible. The lightweight flywheel, free-flow exhaust, windage tray, and synthetic oil should help. One TD-specific part I didn't order is the oil pump. As long as the stock pump has sufficient oil flow to keep the turbo lubricated and cooled, keeping it as small as possible will free up HP. Another point is that even if the 1.5 can't cope with the added stress, there aren't any 1.5-specific parts here. If it goes south I can rebuild it for improved strength, or throw in a 1.6.
I have a long weekend ahead of me, and I'm going try to get some of this stuff put on. I have just about all of the external 1.6 TD parts I need. Other things like intake manifold, oil cooler and gauges are on their way. I got all new hoses for the cooling system. I hope to accomplish glow plugs, cooling system, lubrication system, and short-throw shift kit this weekend. Here's a picture of the host:
To keep EGTs down, I've included GTD nozzles, free-flowing exhaust, oil cooler, and low temp thermostat. Before I really start to push it, I'll add water/methanol injection. I plan to keep my A/C and don't really want the hassle of installing an intercooler. Initially I'm using the stock N/A pump without an LDA. I'm hoping that with the quick spooling characteristics of the VNT, I won't need one. A couple of other things I still need are oil return line, air filter, clutch, and VNT controller.
Check out the VNT downpipe. Joey at Techtonics Tuning built it for me within two days of receiving the junk VNT-15 I sent him for prototyping. In case you haven't worked with them before, TT has excellent products and service.
Thanks also goes to Zeb at 1stvwparts.com for getting me all of the genuine VW parts I needed so quickly and cheaply. I'll keep you posted on my progress. -
#1 by saurkraut on 30 Jun, 2006 09:06
-
I'm building a 1.5TD too. The block is assembled, and the 1.6 KKK turbo is rebuilt with one of Jakes kits.
You may want to concider using Raceware's head studs for the 1.5 TD. The stock strech bolts have a very short thread engagement in the block, even shorter than the 1.6 bolts.
Excuse the plug: http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/photo.htm
I am in no way associated, employed, or hold any interest in Raceware. I just use there stuff in my diesels. -
#2 by RAMMSTEIN on 30 Jun, 2006 09:51
-
Can we have more pics about your host?
What year is it? -
#3 by DVST8R on 30 Jun, 2006 10:44
-
If you are going to all that work, on a 1.5D then take the block and the head and have them drilled and tapped for the larger studs used on the 1.6, 1.9, tdi ect... get yourself some raceware studs, get a 1.9 metal HG, pm fspgtd on how to make it work with a solid lifter motor. Then at least it may hold together under boost.
If you are really serious about efficiancy, either build a custom intake manifold or at least get a pd130, or long runner gasser, port it and the head and the exhaust manifold. Have the piston's ceramic coated or moly coated. Finally I would relly look into running a fmic even if it is somthing small like the MkIII TDI intercooler, the effciancy boost si worth the effort. Water meth is a nice addition, but the only time I would ever consider it a subsitute as at the track (1/4mile, or tractor pulling)
If you are serious about running water meth, you may want to look at fire ringing the block as well with the studs, as from all observations I have made when you turn it on with your boost at max it is like adding an additional 10psi +
Finally you will have no problem running around on an NA pump. Malone did it in his Franken motor for month's, you may get a puff of smoke when you hit it off boost but that is about it. However there isnt nearly the tunning you can get out of it, if you want to run alot of fuel.
I think that about covers it, I am sure there will be others to chime in.
BTW nice car.
-
#4 by rabbid79 on 30 Jun, 2006 14:58
-
Thanks for the replies. I'm not building this for all-out power...yet. Initially, I'm hoping for about 75 HP/TQ, with torque everywhere. That alone should make it quite lively. Right now I'm going to try to preserve the original motor and not put too much money into it.
Libbybapa, I figure that a lower temp thermostat will also help keep the oil temps down since I'm implementing an oil cooler. Does anybody else have any input on the choice of thermostat?
Saurkraut, I'm glad someone else has faith in their 1.5. The Raceware fasteners do sound nice. I noticed that TT sells 11mm ARP fasteners for this engine for about $50 less than the Raceware fasteners. I want to get a G60 valve cover for it soon, and when I do, I'll probably add an oil control baffle, and replace the head gasket and head bolts. Does anyone have any thoughts on the feasibility of lowering the compression with a slightly thicker head gasket?
If and when I go intercooled, it will probably be liquid to air. There is tons of room between the engine and firewall for a liquid to air core. Besides, putting it there will keep the lag to a minimum.
Here are some more pictures.
It's a '79 with 33K original miles. Cosmetically, there's still a couple of things I want to do to it. Since the pictures, I've added a front spoiler, and I'm in the process of adding chrome door handles. I've replaced both of the rear tail lights with NOS Hellas, and all four bumper end caps. I'm still trying to get ahold of a black center console with the 3-gauge holes. I also plan to do something about wheels. Probably Schmidt Modernlines or something. -
#5 by hillfolk'r on 30 Jun, 2006 17:49
-
yea that thing is sweet guys over on vortex were callin it the ebay bunny
dont cut or chop one thing ,or the rabbit police will come over and take it away from you :wink: keep all your orig parts please
looks like a fun project,just dont pour too much fuel to it,or eventually the wrist pins/pistons/small end get angry from the xcess heat,cause of no squirters,but they still last a long time,i got at least 80 100k out of an engine that had 80k on it already before it scored a cylinder..actually it like eroded a big chunk out of the top of the cyl wall,and it popped the head gasket
nice project,keep it cherry man!!!!!
instead of looking for a black console,find one any color and vinyl paint it? i do it all the time -
#6 by coke on 30 Jun, 2006 21:21
-
If you're going to be using a turbo on this 1.5L beast, I would definitley pull the head, have it pressure tested, etc, and use the ARP or Raceware fasteners. I'd go with a 190 degrees thermostat personally. Watch your EGTs, doesn't take much to fry a NA motor with a turbo.
-
#7 by tylernt on 01 Jul, 2006 08:23
-
Quote
Have the piston's ceramic coated or moly coated.
Ditto on this if not installing the oil squirters. -
#8 by jtanguay on 02 Jul, 2006 09:47
-
I would recommend getting both the oil warmer + an oil/air thermostatically controlled cooler.
The water/oil cooler exchanger is great for getting the vehicle up to temperature quicker. Without it, a little 1.5 litre diesel might take a few extra minutes of driving before its ready to rip.
Is the piece on the bottom right the oil / coolant exchanger? or is it an oil filter relocation piece? I wanna get an oil filter relocator kit...!!!!
Just an idea