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#120
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Oct, 2013 13:19
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thats fine, i'd just like to see what it is eventually, i couldn't find a replacement for the 215 chip found in older tachs.
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#121
by
srgtlord
on 25 Oct, 2013 14:37
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As a side note I found a picture of a moto-meter tack that has *drumroll please* the chip with the same part number
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#122
by
DraQuTzU90
on 20 Nov, 2013 02:39
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#123
by
RabbitJockey
on 27 Nov, 2013 14:25
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what u see is what i did, and it did work, have you tried replacing the caps again?? have you played with the potentiometer?
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#124
by
8v-of-fury!
on 16 Jan, 2014 00:20
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Interesting to see that you-tube video up there of the ECU perfectly running the older style tach. One day, maybe when I do an E-TDI swap.. this will be beneficial
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#125
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 19 Sep, 2014 23:22
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Just did this mod to an 83 jetta gasser tach i pulled out of the junkyard today. Went pretty well. Had to tack the 10nf to the back of the board because what i had was 7mm spaced trimmed leads.
Had to parallel a 390 and a 360 to get to 191-ish ohms. Sorted and tested until i had 189.6 ohms so within 1%, should be fine.
'course the car isn't running yet, so . . . .
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#126
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 29 Sep, 2014 23:35
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In case anyone was reading - my bentley manual says that the W terminal should connect to C11 on the fuse/relay panel in 83/84 rabbit/jetta diesel what came with the tach from the factory.
Has anyone tried this?
I have a thing about doing things the right way when i have some clue what that way is. So I'd like to try it. If it's likely to work.
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#127
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 04 Nov, 2014 01:35
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FWW, although my wire harness already plugs into the W terminal (probably for the "shift up you dummy!" light in the cluster), my modified tach isn't moving.
since i got it at a junk yard, I have no way of knowing whether it worked before i modified it.
EDIT: It does work, intermittently. I have reason to believe that it's really my alternator that is intermittent, unfortunately.
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#128
by
srgtlord
on 10 Nov, 2014 08:53
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I wonder If you have a loose connection somewhere. It might be beneficial to run a lead from your tach to the alternator w terminal
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#129
by
Kraftwerk
on 14 Nov, 2014 05:05
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So, I have a CE1 (2 connectors) VDO gasser tach out of, I think, '86 Jetta, and I'd like to try to make it work in my '87 Passat diesel.
Diesel tachs are impossible to find, and since this one is going to spin a little higher, 5k tach wouldn't do it anyway.
So, anyone knows what should I do to this, which schematics work, etc? I have a friend who is an electrical engineer, but I have to give him something to start with...
http[TACH IMAGE]://[REMOVE THIS]s26.postimg.org/c84i1wbi0/IMG_20141113_200330.jpg
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#130
by
libbydiesel
on 26 Nov, 2014 19:04
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Here's the missing pic from the first post.
In the text following the pic I'm not sure what the "zener" is, the pic doesn't show a C2. Is it the white component bottom left?
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#131
by
RabbitJockey
on 28 Nov, 2014 12:40
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c2 i would also guess i the large white compnent on the left. the zener must mean a zener diode, which i would guess is the component at the bottom right, since its the only thing that looks like a diode.
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#132
by
libbydiesel
on 28 Nov, 2014 13:00
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After posting I realized that board is the exact same as the one you posted in reply 100 and quoted by DraQuTzU90 above. Your pic shows that C2 is the white capacitor. I also agree that the 'zener' is the D1 diode in the bottom right.
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#133
by
RabbitJockey
on 28 Nov, 2014 13:07
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After posting I realized that board is the exact same as the one you posted in reply 100 and quoted by DraQuTzU90 above. Your pic shows that C2 is the white capacitor. I also agree that the 'zener' is the D1 diode in the bottom right.
looks like it's even labeled as a z on that board. and what ever i wrote for that boards instructions definitely worked, looks like someone else had already figured it out, but i couldn't see the picture so ended up writing my own up.
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#134
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 18 Dec, 2014 02:43
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I am pleased to report that, having replaced the original voltage stabilizer in my 1983 jetta gasser cluster with an $0.75 Fairchild LM7810, my tach works excellently! No wiring mods at all in my 1984 jetta. I modified the tach board and nothing else.
I'm sure i still need to tweak it, which will happen after i fasten a piezo pickup to my #1 injector line and hook up a silly scope.
PM me if you need to replace your voltage stabilizer. The $28 charged by mk1autohaus is highway robbery. $5 CONUS shipped. You'll need a stack of 7 or 8 #4 brass washers and a #4 1/2" wood screw because the LM7810 mounts up-side-down vs. how the original part was mounted. I have exactly 3 extras. heck, I'll even throw in a brass #4 1/2" screw .