Intermediate Shaft Not Fitting After Bearing Replacement - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Intermediate Shaft Not Fitting After Bearing Replacement by eaders on 25 Nov, 2017 20:01
• Hey Everyone,
  
  I just replaced my intermediate shaft bearings on my AAZ engine.
  
  I used the parts from this website: partsplaceinc.com/vw-intermediate-shaft-bearing-15955.html
  They say they are reamed.
  
  I've installed the new bearings but now the intermediate shaft won't go in. I busted out the micrometer and it seems the ID (of outer bearing) now that it is installed is 21.44, but the OD of the outer side of the shaft is 21.50.
  
  I'm not sure what to do... I have a couple ideas but I'm wondering if maybe I'm missing a step.
  
  Thanks for the help!
  
• #1 by beichMTDI on 27 Nov, 2017 07:22
• Not sure the tolerances that can be overcome using this method but you could throw the shaft in the freezer and heat the bearing up in the oven. I've done this quite a few times with bearings that normally wouldn't fit on by hand. Pull the frozen shaft out and slip the heated bearing right on. Wants it cools they are rock solid. This isn't always feasible based on freezer/ oven space but hey- thought I'd throw it out there.
• #2 by TylerDurden on 27 Nov, 2017 10:09
• Did the new bearings properly fit the IM shaft before installing?  Maybe they are slightly askew.
• #3 by eaders on 27 Nov, 2017 10:28
• Thanks for the tips folks!
  
  I managed to get the shaft in last night. I lubed it up with assembly lube and then inserted the shaft until both rollers were touching the edge of the bearing. I then threaded the pulley bolt in all the way until it started to turn the shaft and then I gently used a 19mm wrench to slowly turn the shaft while applying very minimal inward pressure. Each turn it slowly slid into place. It did go in all the way without a ton of force or a hammer-blow but now it is extremely hard to turn. With force it will turn, but it takes far too much effort to turn. In fact, I'm skeptical a starter motor would even have enough power to spin the damn thing let alone have the engine run itself.
  
  My thoughts now are to buy a flex-hone of similar diameter and slowly sand-and-fit until it has less resistance. The old pulley would turn nearly one entire revolution after a simple flick of the wrist so I have some bearing (pun intended) of what it should feel like or what the resistance should be.
  
  @TylerDurden Yes they did. I slid both of them onto the shaft to make sure they fit and the clearances were not too much. I also wanted to make sure I got the inner and outers matched up properly. I know they compress a little but the website advertises them as pre-reamed and "ready to go". So I assumed it would be a simply slide the shaft in...
  
  @beichMTDI This is a good suggestion. I will try this and see if it makes the resistance less. Thanks!
  
  Any other tips, suggestions, or helpful directions would be most appreciate. Thanks for your time friends.
• #4 by fatmobile on 27 Nov, 2017 17:50
• What brand were the bearings?
• #5 by eaders on 27 Nov, 2017 20:59
• Kolbenschmidt
• #6 by fatmobile on 29 Nov, 2017 15:53
•  Oh, I haven't tried them.
   Usually go with cleveite.
   I have a post on here somewhere, detailing the differences I found between durabond clevite and another brand.
• #7 by eaders on 08 Dec, 2017 12:31
• Update: Resolved.
  
  I thought I would provide an update incase anybody has a similar problem or is just looking for insights.
  
  I went back to the garage after a day; I spun the shaft a couple more times as described above. Interestingly, the shaft was much easier to spin. After half a dozen rotations I started to feel it become harder to turn so I stopped. Could be because its heating up, could be because I had run out of assembly lube between the two surfaces. I removed the shaft by rotating the engine on the stand so it pointed down and then, using the same rotating technique as described above, I started to spin the shaft with the wrench. I took the hammer-blunt of a bearing press kit and lighting tapped the opposite end of the shaft through the freeze plug hole on the trans side of the block. The shaft came out nice and easy. I inspected the shaft and it still looked great. I inspected the bearing and it too looked great. Both of the bearings still had their respective oil holes lined up and neither had budged at all. However, my theory about the lube running out was correct. No oil pump means no oil supply; lube is just for initial timing rotations and very first start up.
  
  I cleaned the inside surface off both inner and outer bearings with a super clean non-lint cloth; as too their respective surfaces on the intermediate shaft. I did this for awhile and made sure that all surfaces were as spot free as possible. Thinking on it, any dirt that may have gotten in the lube while I was assembling it the first time is not only very bad but would make it hard to turn. I cleaned all my working surfaces and double cleaned around the entrance to the shaft hole (yeah I said it.) A pair of new gloves and away I went with the assembly lube. I applied triple the amount I applied the first time on all four surfaces. I managed to get the shaft back in (same method as described above) with much less effort than the first time. After it was in, it was significantly easier to turn than before, not as easy as before the bearing replacement but they are new bearings; not worn ones. At this point, I am satisfied that this is alright. After researching its clear the two surfaces will mate upon break-in and the after priming the oil pump/system it will receive lubrication immediately upon startup.
  
  I completed the remainder of the intermediate shaft install by replacing the seal and o-ring of the flange (as well as the stretch bolts) and then TTY.
  
  Hope this helps!!
• #8 by fatmobile on 10 Dec, 2017 23:36
• I-shaft seal carrier bolts are TTY?
   I use blue lock tite on them and the I-shaft pully bolt.
• #9 by fatmobile on 07 Aug, 2018 22:43
• I had the same experience with sealed power brand.
  That's what I thought the brand you used was, so thought I'd try them.
   Had to sand down the outer bearing to get it to spin easily enough. I mean the shaft was really stuck until I sanded the outer bearing some
   Just sanded by hand,.. didn't have to remove much.
  I do like tight IM shaft bearings so I'd use sealed power again.
  I could tell they were tighter than clevite when I slid each brand over the shaft before install.
  They do get tighter once installed.
  
• #10 by libbydiesel on 08 Aug, 2018 10:31
• I do not believe the intermediate shaft seal carrier bolts are TTY.
• #11 by Dakotakid on 10 Aug, 2018 02:03
• I've seen morons who can MAKE them yield.........