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#15
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 15 Oct, 2017 08:09
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like i had suggested, use dial method and measure pump timing, id prefer every step/time. if you take OR's suggestion and 'time it by ear' then shut off and measure by dial. this will give you all points measured, and if you do it right quite accurate. then take for a test drive and see how it feels. if you keep 1.9 head it will give you points of reference. and in a future timing job will also give you a point of reference. note you may use different timing for pump for warm weather and cold weather, depending on feel, and preference.
if you decide to put stock 1.6 head back on, in timing section is the pump timing, its within specs, +/-.
id get your guy to 1st check that cam is right on. that also being a starting reference point. if its not at least you ll know by how much. (it has to be close).
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#16
by
Norsker
on 16 Oct, 2017 23:56
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Well Sh*t.
The alternator is gone, it chewed up a belt yesterday, replaced it and all seemed fine, except that my alternator stopped charging.
The belt squeals, a lot. Sometimes it will stop squealing and my tachometer will start working again and it starts charging everything. However this only happens sometimes so at the moment im stuck in my driveway.
Anyone know if you can "shim" the alternator pulley, as this seems to be a bit out of alignment with the other 2 pulleys.
If this doesn't help with the alternator, is the voltage regulator then the next step? After checking out wiring of course.
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#17
by
Norsker
on 17 Oct, 2017 14:16
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An update:
I have purchased a new voltage regulator / coal holder, but it doesn't fit! I work at an auto parts store and have scoured the system for a regulator that fits my alternator, but none of them look like mine!
I'm genuinely stumped. I'm considering just changing out the whole alternator with a new/refurbished one.
Here are pictures of the old reg on the bottom and the new one i picked up.
https://imgur.com/gallery/s5GAMAlso i found out it smokes because the turbo eats oil
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#18
by
libbydiesel
on 17 Oct, 2017 15:56
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Why do you say the turbo eats oil?
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Oct, 2017 20:02
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That voltage regulator is out of a Bosch type alternator the Motorolas have a metal box like thing that does not have the brushes attached. It fits on the back of the alternator in a recessed spot.
Your problem of no charge might be connected to a loose wire that causes the excitor to fire up once the voltage from the battery is compared to the alternator. The plug going to the alternator might have a cracked wire within it. Had that problem myself on an 81 Caddy a while back.
You should have a red light on the dash with the key on. If you don't then chances are the wire on the alternator is messed up. Use the dash light to inform you when the circuit is complete. Then try starting it and rev the engine enough to turn the light off.
You might be better just buying a rebuilt alternator but be aware that the voltage out of them is suspect to be low. You need to get the alternator to output 13.7 to 13.8 volts DC.
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#20
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 18 Oct, 2017 01:17
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13.7-13.8 is about minimum output, 14.x-xx.2 or so is much gooder. then again its going to be bosch. make sure charging wire is set up ok, check, clean up connections. one of my favorite subjects, as it effects these old 12v cars so well, is grounding. main thing as OR says is that exciter wire, not only will you not charge, you can have current build-up in alt and blow it. just by that wire not being hooked up. make sure battery is good,holding charge. main way other than a load test, is to charge, let sit after, come back and take a multimeter, check voltage.
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#21
by
Norsker
on 18 Oct, 2017 01:56
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I'm getting a new alternator...
Now how do i know which one to get?!
There are a lot of different ones, and the one currently on the car has a pulley misalignment, so that its recessed about 5-10mm towards the middle of the engine bay, compared to the two other pulleys.
I have a JR code engine from 91'
The reason i think the turbo eats oil is because the intercooler piping has a lot of oil in it
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#22
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 18 Oct, 2017 07:37
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but you cannt tell if theres oil in the exhaust, oil in the intake can easily be the crankcase vent. which after going into combustion chamber gets to go out the exhaust, different than the oil going out the turbo straight to the exhaust.
i ve been trying to tell members for sometime. the original alt pulley along with the washers, you want to take off and keep. dont give back with the core. it ll be really hard to find again. i have mk2s that have A/C, so this alignment is even harder to find. the pulleys i find i get with new/remaned alts are some generic type, what they fit if anything who knows.??. dont know i was figuring, wondering if they fit a factory non-A/C set up.
i checked, this was a couple of years ago, for my A/C set up, alt pulley, the pulley alone was about $45, these are out-of-stock anymore. cannt just find them.
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#23
by
libbydiesel
on 18 Oct, 2017 08:04
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The reason i think the turbo eats oil is because the intercooler piping has a lot of oil in it
With stock hose routing the crank vent is connected to the intake between the air filter and compressor inlet. The crank vent carries a considerable amount of oil mist which condenses in the intake hose, turbo compressor, and intercooler/piping. If your crank vent is connected the stock way (the way it should be) then what you describe sounds normal. You would need to clean all the piping and run it for a while with the crank vent disconnected in order to know whether or not the turbo is adding to the oil that normally coats and collects in the entire intake tract between air filter and intake ports.
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 18 Oct, 2017 09:24
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For alternator replacement you need to know if it is Bosch or Motorola, Yours it Bosch. Then is is AC or Non AC? Finally you should measure the distance from the alternator face to the pulley edge and middle. With those numbers known you should be able to find the proper replacement from Parts Place, Rock Auto, AutohausAZ or several other auto parts places. I prefer to use the VW ones over AutoZone or O'Reilys as they don't seem to get the correct parts as often. Opps, you are over the big pond. so not sure where you would shop.
And don't forget to pull the pulley off and swap it to the new alternator for proper fitment. Sometimes you just can't put all new parts in as expected. They are not right for some applications.
Close but not to the mm that we need on these cars.
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#25
by
Norsker
on 20 Oct, 2017 06:34
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I have an oil catch can connected from the crank vent
Also.. The alternator is charging again!! The pulley misalignment was the culprit all this time, so we put a 3mm washer behind it, and what do ya know 13.8 volts.
Today i will install a new radiator and move the front mount intercooler further out, since the radiator has to be tilted backwards for it to fit
I've learned to live with the smoke, and i have a spare k24 turbo just laying around, when/if the k14 breaks i'll just swap it.
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#26
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 20 Oct, 2017 07:45
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Also.. The alternator is charging again!! The pulley misalignment was the culprit all this time, so we put a 3mm washer behind it, and what do ya know 13.8 volts.
not 100% sure, i think you want a washer with a 'notch' to _fit thru_ &
over the woodruff key.
*correction> *^_slip on,over_
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#27
by
libbydiesel
on 20 Oct, 2017 11:08
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I have an oil catch can connected from the crank vent
Also.. The alternator is charging again!! The pulley misalignment was the culprit all this time, so we put a 3mm washer behind it, and what do ya know 13.8 volts.
Today i will install a new radiator and move the front mount intercooler further out, since the radiator has to be tilted backwards for it to fit
I've learned to live with the smoke, and i have a spare k24 turbo just laying around, when/if the k14 breaks i'll just swap it.
If you have a catch can and the turbo is still spewing oil into the intake, you should confirm that the valve cover screen and the oil return line are free and clear. It is very rare that the turbo itself is the culprit. Usually there is a secondary issue that causes the oil to push past the turbo shaft seals. Regardless of the cause, this is something to take seriously. If enough oil leaks by, you can have a runaway situation which is frightening, dangerous, and can seriously damage your engine.
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#28
by
Norsker
on 20 Oct, 2017 12:23
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Oh.. will take the turbo off and give it a runover. Could it be because i deleted the BOV?
We did grind a notch into the washer so it goes over the jeg
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#29
by
vanbcguy
on 20 Oct, 2017 18:13
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Oh.. will take the turbo off and give it a runover. Could it be because i deleted the BOV?
We did grind a notch into the washer so it goes over the jeg
The so called BOV is actually an "overboost protection valve" that was intended to sacrifice the turbo to protect the engine in the event of a stuck wastegate. VW decided it was a bad idea and dropped it in the 90s. Definitely not the cause of anything, it would never open unless something was broken.
It's very very normal to have a fair bit of oil in the intake. I've yet to see a VW that doesn't.
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