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#15
by
UncleDelicious
on 25 Jul, 2017 19:56
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I changed out the battery terminals and that seems to have solved it. I think you were right about the poor contact point there.
But now I'm still having the same fueling issue as before. It will start and run but then sputter and die after a few seconds. If I pull fuel to the IP with the MityVac, it will run for longer but eventually die.
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#16
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Jul, 2017 20:47
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This car sat for awhile didn't it? The pump seals might be worn or dried and cracked and letting air into the pump. If you have clear diesel going out of the OUT bolt and by that I mean no air bubbles mixed in with it then my only logical guess is that the pump itself is worn and not able to draw fuel to the inlet.
I think you changed the fuel filter. but if it fades after awhile on a bottle or jar after time then it has to be the IP itself as that is the only thing in the loop.
Back to the drawing board eh?
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#17
by
UncleDelicious
on 26 Jul, 2017 10:12
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Man, I've been hoping it isn't the IP. I was told the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and it looks pretty clean. It did sit for a while though so it would make sense for seals to be worn
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#18
by
UncleDelicious
on 29 Jul, 2017 17:57
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I tried that thing I was told about where you pressurize the return fuel line at the IP. The truck now runs fine without dying. I'm not sure what the issue was, but putting a little compressed air through the system seems to have solved my problem.
Thanks for all of your help everybody, it's greatly appreciated
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Jul, 2017 14:31
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Odd to have a restriction on the return side of the pump but as you say, No problems now. Normally is a a plug that starves the pump of fuel not one that builds up pressure within it. Good to know. Many happy miles now.
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#20
by
UncleDelicious
on 30 Jul, 2017 17:51
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I'm not sure if the blockage was in the return side or the feed side, because I just pressurized the return until fuel came out through the filter. Either way, it works now and I was finally able to take it out for a drive today
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#21
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Jul, 2017 23:52
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That makes some sense but you might now have a big nasty goober in the fuel filter. You might want to check into that. It might become a problem later. Surprised that the vent on the tank didn't just let the air out that way. You might need to blow that out as well.
I know, You just want to drive it and not have to keep fixing and checking things. But that is what you get when you own one of these darlings.
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#22
by
UncleDelicious
on 01 Aug, 2017 18:37
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Rome wasn't built in a day. I just feel accomplished that it runs and drives for now
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#23
by
fatmobile
on 04 Aug, 2017 15:16
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Pressurising the fuel tank enough to blow a chunk of gunk from the supply line could have ended badly.
10 psi on a tank that has so many square inches could and expanded it easily.
10 psi on 10 square inches is 100 pounds.
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#24
by
UncleDelicious
on 27 Aug, 2017 12:10
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This bad boy was slower than hell, like it wouldn't go much over 45 on a flat road. It seemed like a fuel delivery issue so I tried researching some of that fuel stuff.
I had 5/16" fuel lines from the tank to the filter and then 5/16" for the return from the IP back to the tank. There was a 1/4" from the filter to the IP.
I changed the 1/4" to a 5/16" on the short section from the filter to the IP and it got even slower. So I looked around online and saw the fuel lines are supposed to be 1/4" and I changed all the fuel lines to 1/4".
With the 1/4" lines it idles super rough and dies when I give it any throttle. But then poking around this forum I found an older post where somebody mentioned 5/16" from the tank to the IP and then 1/4" from the IP returning to the tank.
Could anybody enlighten me to which size fuel lines go where? There doesn't seem to be a general consensus, but I'm currently thinking the 5/16" feed and 1/4" return sounds like my next step
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#25
by
fatmobile
on 29 Aug, 2017 15:38
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5/16" metal from the tank to the engine bay, 5/16" rubber hose from there to filter, 1/4" from filter to pump, 1/4" from the pump (for MK1), to 5/16" metal back towards the tank.
Got clear fuel lines?
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#26
by
UncleDelicious
on 29 Aug, 2017 17:50
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I have no clear lines at the moment. Although I've heard they are a great way to troubleshoot around the IP
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#27
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Aug, 2017 22:45
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You should pick up a section of 1/4 inch and do the from the filter and back to the tank hard line. If you ever find air on the side of the filter you have troubles. If you don't have air going into the IP but see air coming out that means some seal is bad on the pump and that helps you determine what parts to fix.
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#28
by
UncleDelicious
on 26 Sep, 2017 21:48
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It would appear that one of my injectors wasn't sealing and it was bubbling a bit. I pulled it out but the heat shield doesn't seem to want to come out very well.
I'm afraid to cause any debris to fall down past the heat shield
What does everybody else do when you guys have a stubborn heat shield?
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#29
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Sep, 2017 00:02
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I have a pair of thin nosed pliers that have an expanding handle, spring pushes them open if you are not squeezing on them. I insert them into the hole of the heat shield. Let them open up and simply pull up to remove the shield.
If yours is stuck in there from carbon or misalignment then you are going to need to get a little more force and perhaps some penetrating fluid on it first. A stout wire that fits the hole with a slight 90 degree bend for about 5 mm might get in and provide enough grab that you can pop it out. You have to get it out to put in a new one anyway. Car won't run the way it is.
That may have been the problem in the first place. Not reforming the shield or not using a new one. You have to have that little gap between the edge of the shield and the body of the injector when you go to install them. Otherwise they are not going to do their job.