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#30
by
UncleDelicious
on 27 Sep, 2017 22:21
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Yeah, I'm wondering if that one was stuck and then just left in the last time somebody removed that injector.
I tried a some PB Blaster and a bent coat hanger the other day but it kept popping out
I'll fiddle with my design or maybe try to find some pliers that fit. Maybe some small ring opening pliers would do the trick
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#31
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Sep, 2017 22:38
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You might try tapping lightly on it with a flat faced punch around the edges. That might break the carbon bind on it. Then when you get it out be sure to clean the seat of the heat shield real good with a flat scraper. Hopefully a minimal amount of crap falls in the cylinder. You could work with a vacuum cleaner sucking it out like the dentist does.
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#32
by
UncleDelicious
on 28 Sep, 2017 17:27
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I got the old one out and I'm picking up a few new heat shields at German Auto Parts tomorrow. All it took was a few tries with the PB, my coat hanger, and a few choice words.
I'll probably have the shop vac running near the opening and scrape some of the build up out of there
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#33
by
vanbcguy
on 29 Sep, 2017 01:18
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Fwiw the easiest way to get a stuck heat shield out is to screw a large wood screw in to it, then yank on that.
I've had good luck with a bicycle spoke for ones that aren't too stuc.
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
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#34
by
UncleDelicious
on 07 Oct, 2017 15:11
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It will get one good rev up and then when I let the throttle out it will shake pretty rough at idle and not rev back up very high before letting it idle for a minute.
So to recap: Revs up well --> throttle let out = rough idle, hard shaking --> will not rev up very high --> idles for a bit --> repeat from beginning
It looks like fuel is slowly creeping from the return line back into the IP. The clear return line will be empty in the engine bay and then fill up from the tank side
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#35
by
ORCoaster
on 07 Oct, 2017 22:41
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When was the last time you changed the fuel filter. Sounds like a vacuum being built up on the inlet side. Run from a bottle to eliminate fuel filter and report back to us.
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#36
by
UncleDelicious
on 08 Oct, 2017 08:37
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The fuel filter is new.
A few months ago I tried it off of a bottle of diesel and it pulled from there and ran. I'll get out there and try the bottle thing again and report my findings
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#37
by
UncleDelicious
on 10 Oct, 2017 18:48
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It was running off of a bottle but there was a lot of air in the line so it wasn't super strong.
I blew the air out of the lines and it ran pretty well after that except it still dies out after giving it the berries.
It will be fine through first and then after shifting up it feels like there's no fuel for a few seconds before it catches back up
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#38
by
ORCoaster
on 10 Oct, 2017 20:26
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Sounds like a front seal might be leaking somehow. As you demand fuel it put a vacuum on the pump and lines to the fuel filter. If the lines and filter are not there, as in the bottle system there should not be air in any of the lines. Maybe an inlet banjo not totally smooth or a copper washer has a burr on it and it is letting air in that way?
Grasping at where the air is coming from. Do you have fresh ends on the lines going to the banjo and fuel filter. They get hard and brittle and they might look and feel like they are on well but they have a crack that will get vibration on upshift and possibly let air in that way.
Maybe you have new fuel lines all the way, I think I remember that now. So banjos, washers, inlet bolt are the only areas I would be looking other than the seals on the front hub.
What a PITA!
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#39
by
UncleDelicious
on 10 Oct, 2017 21:44
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PITA is right.
I guess I gotta start poking around the banjos and maybe replace some copper washers
Thanks for the suggestions
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#40
by
ORCoaster
on 10 Oct, 2017 22:30
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I am running out of ideas, get it fixed soon.
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#41
by
UncleDelicious
on 20 Oct, 2017 19:09
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This may be a dumb question, but are leaks on the return side as likely to cause issue as leaks on the feed side?
The return line going into the fuel tank has a little baby leak that I can't seem to get to stop no matter how much I tighten down the hose clamp
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#42
by
vanbcguy
on 20 Oct, 2017 19:57
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This may be a dumb question, but are leaks on the return side as likely to cause issue as leaks on the feed side?
The return line going into the fuel tank has a little baby leak that I can't seem to get to stop no matter how much I tighten down the hose clamp
Yes, very much so. Return side leaks let fuel flow back to the tank from the supply side filling the pump with air.
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#43
by
ORCoaster
on 20 Oct, 2017 23:04
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I believe you have just determined where the air is coming from. Return line will leak air into the pump as vanbcguy says.
Did you clip a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the line off before you tightened the clamp? That will refreshen the hose on the nib and you get a better seal.
The air into the pump issue really demands a short section of clear line on both sides of the pump for the very reason you are facing right now.
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#44
by
UncleDelicious
on 21 Oct, 2017 20:21
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I didn't clip any off because it obviously pisses diesel when disconnected. That seems like a promising change though.
I guess I'll just find the best way to do it as quick as possible and hope that solves my issues.
I do have clear lines on both sides of the IP now. It seemed to be slowly pulling in fuel on the return side, with the occasional bubbles coming through the feed side