Advice on VW TD 1.6 Fuel Pump adjustments - page 3 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #30 by libbydiesel on 20 Sep, 2015 08:43
• The 1.9 TD (AAZ) is almost the same engine as the 1.6TD but with larger displacement.  It is not really any more complicated of an engine.  There are a few extra small things that would need to be addressed (e.g. intake ports are a different shape) but those would not add very little to the install. 
• #31 by epowell on 20 Sep, 2015 13:02
• Yes - the previous owner had a 1.9 in there, and I am very much guessing it is exactly what you are saying here, an AAZ 1.9 TD. He loved that engine so much that he went to the trouble to remove it to keep just for himself --- he said the 1.9 is far more powerful.
  
  So I think that I could do the same thing as him...  put in a 1.9, and then IF I would ever want to sell, just drop the 1.6 back in...
  
  One question....  as I am on the verge of buying these SHOP MANUALS...  It seems kinda strange to me that there would not exist a SHOP MANUAL in English which would cover the '84 T3 with 1.6TD. Because the UK is in EUROPE and seems there are plenty of T3 1.6TDs over there....   I will try inquiring with those Brits to see if I can come up with something.
  
  
• #32 by epowell on 20 Sep, 2015 13:42
• Libby Diesel, you were saying that the Bentley Manual does not cover 1.6TD Diesel..   but some folks are saying that it does, and on the book itself it says it does...  is this that it is only covering regular diesel and not Turbo?    ...or?
   
• #33 by epowell on 20 Sep, 2015 13:50
• Sorry, disregard that last post - turbo is NOT covered in that Bentley manual.
• #34 by libbydiesel on 20 Sep, 2015 14:15
• Vanagon Bentley does not cover the turbo-diesel.  Quantum Bentley does. 
• #35 by epowell on 20 Sep, 2015 14:33
• yes...  sorry to make you repeat yourself...  I asked around the UK guys and nobody seems to know anything about any 'all in one' T3 TD manual, so I will just go ahead and scoop both the vanagon and quantum manuals......
• #36 by epowell on 21 Sep, 2015 00:04
• ...would the exact name for my engine be "1.6 TD JX"?
  I don't see the "JX" listed in the technical papers on my van, but everyone seems to be calling the European 1.6TD a "JX"....
• #37 by libbydiesel on 21 Sep, 2015 07:09
• Yes.  The engine code for the 1.6TD engines installed in Vanagons is the JX.  To be clear, the Vanagon Bentley only covers the vanagon models/engines that were imported into North America.  It does not cover the 1.6TD (JX), 1.7 non-turbo (KY), 1.6 air-cooled, higher compression DJ water-boxer, or inline-5 engines that were installed in other markets. 
• #38 by epowell on 21 Sep, 2015 09:24
• ahhh... OK - thanks so much for this information! Knowing that I have a JX helps really a lot because in the UK there seems to be a fair number of them, and there is on-line info in English.
  
  Another thing I learned is that in the UK T3s are not called T3, but rather are called T25!
  
  So when I google VW T25 1.6TD JX  ...I am lead to a lot of info which relates exactly to MY van
  
  Knowing that something like a JX is in a VW QUANTUM really helps also. I have also been hearing that the JX was used in VW GOLFs. You know down in Bosnia there are millions of T3 Diesels (not sure if turbo)...  and there are even MORE GOLFs!  ...in fact in Sarajevo (capital city) appearantly they were even manufacturing them for a long time!  --- so it might be that that country is in fact FULL of JX engines and parts...   seems so.
  
  
• #39 by epowell on 22 Sep, 2015 03:00
• I have located and downloaded PDF files (2) for the JX engine, and JX Diesel Injection system. . .
  . . .the exact name of these PDFs are:
  1)
  V.A.G. SERVICE
  WORKSHOP MANUAL VW TRANSPORTER 1980 >
  CS - JX - KY 
  4 cyl. diesel engines
  
  2)
  V.A.G. SERVICE
  WORKSHOP MANUAL VW TRANSPORTER 1980 >
  CS - JX - KY 
  diesel injection and glow plug system
  
  ...do you think these V.A.G. manuals are comprehensive and detailed enough to do an engine rebuild - ?  [I'm sure it can't hurt to get the QUANTUM MANUAL also for cross-reference!]
  
  ...seems like the second VAG PDF here would be what I would use to do the fuel pump adjusting. [these files are  pretty small (14MB total) so shoot me an email if you'd like to have a look   [email protected] ].
• #40 by epowell on 25 Sep, 2015 12:04
• Andrew, can I ask a question...
  ...I have been reading up a bit of JX engine rebuilding, and it always seems like they wait until the engine is performing badly before thinking about doing a rebuild - and then when taking apart the engine it becomes clear that things are in such bad condition that major expensive parts must be replaced (like a whole new head and pistons for example).
  
  So would it not perhaps make more sense with a very old engine - to do a rebuild on it BEFORE it starts performing particularly badly? I mean, if the engine still performs relatively strongly does that not mean a much greater chance that the rebuild will be more simple, economical, and not require replacing large and expensive components (of course there will never be any guarantees - I understand that).
  
  I ask because currently my JX feels pretty strong and responsive - but it is very old and never been rebuilt as far as I know. . . maybe I would save a lot of money in rebuilding now while it is still running well, rather than waiting a couple of years when it starts to crap out?
• #41 by libbydiesel on 25 Sep, 2015 12:29
• It's extremely hard to say what the cost of a rebuild will be and at what point rebuilding sooner rather than later would save money.  If a pre-chamber insert breaks in half and falls into the cylinder, it obviously would have saved money to rebuild it the day before...  In a similar way, you might get another 10 years of driving out of a well-running engine and your life situation might change causing you to decide to sell it in 3 years...  In that case, the cost rebuilding vs. not rebuilding would be a darn sight more.  Usually people rebuild when the engine has an 'issue' because that's usually the time when they need to.  I can't really give you better than that. 
• #42 by epowell on 25 Sep, 2015 13:03
• Quote from: libbydiesel on 25 Sep, 2015 12:29

  It's extremely hard to say what the cost of a rebuild will be and at what point rebuilding sooner rather than later would save money.  If a pre-chamber insert breaks in half and falls into the cylinder, it obviously would have saved money to rebuild it the day before...  In a similar way, you might get another 10 years of driving out of a well-running engine and your life situation might change causing you to decide to sell it in 3 years...  In that case, the cost rebuilding vs. not rebuilding would be a darn sight more.  Usually people rebuild when the engine has an 'issue' because that's usually the time when they need to.  I can't really give you better than that.
  

  
  Excellent and useful answer!   ...Thanks, it helps me to understand the issues better.
• #43 by epowell on 26 Sep, 2015 00:58
• Actually as we discussed before, the best thing to do would be to rebuild an engine separately - then install...  taking out my current engine while it is still hopefully running well.
  
  I just now had a brilliant idea...  I know that Bosnia is absolutely full of T3s in junkyards and around the country - I think next summer I will go down there in my van and make a tour of the junkyards, buy a JX and as many other excellent condition parts are I can find...   fill up my van and come home with the goodies
  
  However it can be tricky to know if an engine is rebuildable --- my buddy down there has a huge double workshop since his father used to have a truch repair business - and this workshop is still intact...  so best  would be to buy an engine - then strip it down somewhat while still there in order to determine if it is rebuildable -  -  - if yes, then bring her home - if not, then scrap it and look for another...
  
  ...sorry, I am just 'thinking aloud'
• #44 by air-cooled or diesel on 26 Sep, 2015 11:09
• Quote from: epowell on 19 Sep, 2015 15:25

     The van goes really well, engine is great as is...  the only weird thing is when going slowly over bumps the steering wheel seems to shake a bit like it is loose!  ...I am guessing something is loose and getting warnout in there.
  
  The other thing is the brakes squeek a bit when going slow and braking... he said the pads are still quite good but need replacing pretty soon - so maybe they need replacing NOW!? Better have a look ASAP!
  

  i find a lot of loose steering wheels can be the steering 'ujoint' should be right above rack. one you cannt do yourself can get to be $200 or more in work & parts.
  
  

  Quote from: epowell on 20 Sep, 2015 00:37

  ...the guy I just bought it off HAD a 1.9 TD in there, and he very much preferred it!
  

  thought you had said it may have been a 1.9tdi, i suppose it could also have been an aaz i guess appropriately it would be a 1.9 td idi. a 1.9 m-tdi hopped up would be snicce
  
  as far as the brakes, as i outlined before, things like good rotors, possibly vented would be nice, good calipers, i like new, add some sport to them, you wont be sorry if you set up brakes right, you never know when youll need them; good pads, i like semi-metalic pads, used to buy them from repco, clean all braking surfaces when assembling. other new stuff may/includes master cyl, new flexible lines, i like the stainless braided types. rears; either new or work the drums you have back there, had drums for the rear rite? new rear brakes, thats shoes then springs&cylinders, have fun with the spring assys, take a pic of springs or like what i do, cause everytime i tend to forget which spring/lever went where, i have both rears up and open so as i disassemble 1 side i can now look at the other side for reference. if the smaller springs cannt kick your asz, and getting the parking brake can be a little chore, try on that big lower spring on for size!heheh can take some work, the right tool, and some leverage. clean all brake surfaces when you assemble, again. check on wheel bearings that you dont upset your alignment, rear and front, if you can just pop them out, maybe its a good idea to swap new ones in, i like sk,or fag bearings. got a bonnet i can use a grease gun and a few pumps and you grease the inner portion on bearing, use extra grease for rest. youll need a punch and metal hammer and stuff like a block of wood to do the races, out&in.