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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 25 Apr, 2017 22:41
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Nice!
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#16
by
vanbcguy
on 16 May, 2017 15:17
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Well I can definitely say this motor mount setup is a bit excessively stiff. I decided to put a G60 solid transmission mount in along with a BFI Stealth front mount, and a hydraulic rear mount. I'm only 250 km in so far, not really enough time for them to be broken in but I'm currently not really enjoying the car any time I'm in traffic.
I had essentially the same setup on my Mk3 but with a hydraulic transmission mount instead. It's REALLY hard to get at the trans mount on a B3 with ABS so I thought the solid mount might make more sense (less chance of failure) but now I'm wondering if that was the right move...
I've raised the idle to about 980 which at least let's me see straight at idle but it ain't gonna cut it. Will probably run till July and see if things settle down at all, then start changing things if not.
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#17
by
libbydiesel
on 16 May, 2017 15:24
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That's a bummer. It is amazing how much of a difference there can be with different mounts. Before delving deeply into the mounts, though, make sure you take a VERY critical look at the exhaust mounting. A tremendous amount of vibration can be transmitted from the exhaust. An option would be to disconnect at the turbo and see if that makes a significant change.
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#18
by
vanbcguy
on 16 May, 2017 15:57
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I should mention that the exhaust mounts are also all brand new; I'm happy with the exhaust routing, everything has been done using the factory mounting points, etc. I had just as much vibration before the exhaust was installed too; I think I'm probably ok there.
The Turbo to FMIC pipe could probably use a bit more isolation; there's a bracket they made I can unbolt to verify. I really feel like it's the trans mount though. It came with a BFI mount set; they brag about how their solid trans mounts are stiffer than the 'competition' too so that's probably where I should focus my efforts first.
I also might be wise to retard my timing a little. I'm set for 12 degrees BTDC, but with my .275 nozzles that might be a bit excessive. It certainly sounds like a truck below 3K RPM or so... I can't imagine the injection duration is particularly long with the 11mm pump and the huge nozzles.
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#19
by
theman53
on 24 May, 2017 16:56
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give it 1,000 miles and see, mine got more livable after that
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#20
by
vanbcguy
on 09 Jun, 2017 01:57
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Well I'm at about 400km since I did the swap... That's 240 miles for all y'all south of the border. Pretty much all in traffic so quite a few hours, probably 15 or so. The mounts have tamed quite a bit - it's still pretty rough but if it softens up as much again as it has so far I'll probably be good to go.
Got my summer tires on finally too. About time!
I'm working on my VNT controller again - the one I ran in my Jetta was a prototype board so all point to point wire connections, no filtering capacitors, just quick and dirty. Way back when I did things the first time I drew everything up in Eagle and had a couple of bare PCBs made. Soldered up one finally and started testing tonight - so far so good. I'm missing a library I used previously that makes my EGT sensor work in a reasonable time period, gotta get that sorted but everything appears to be bench testing ok so far.
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#21
by
vanbcguy
on 15 Jun, 2017 02:25
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Have my new VNT controller assembled and have been bench testing. Have made a few programming changes to deal with some things I remember from before. Added a "cooldown" feature that will change the backlight color on the LCD to blue when the engine is at safe shutdown temperature (it already does green for "normal", yellow for EGT warning and red for EGT alarm, it starts venting pressure from the LDA at the same time when it hits the alarm level). Cleaned up a couple of other things in the code.
Cabling should show up tomorrow so I can build the harness. Then I start cramming it in the car...
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#22
by
libbydiesel
on 16 Jun, 2017 00:03
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Very cool!
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#23
by
vanbcguy
on 09 Jul, 2017 03:09
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Finally had the time to finish off my controller. It'd been bench tested and appears to be functional. This one has been designed to be waterproof so it can be mounted under the hood somewhere. I might see if I can fit it in the rain tray though I suspect that'd be a bit tight space wise.
Everything that could move received a liberal coating of hot glue after that. The box is industrial waterproof / dust proof rated along with the external connectors. Oh also not shown are the clamps on the air air lines. Ha.
I still have the second pressure sensor on board which I always intended to use for measuring exhaust manifold pressure. I haven't ever added that to the code though, so for the moment it's just along for the ride. It does give me a higher pressure sensor I can use though - the main one is a 2.5 bar relative and I believe the other one is a 4.0. Add 1 to those values to see how they'd compare to a typical absolute pressure sensor like you'd find on a factory car.
I reeeallly want to experience driving my car with boost again!
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#24
by
libbydiesel
on 09 Jul, 2017 20:32
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That looks awesome.
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#25
by
vanbcguy
on 11 Jul, 2017 10:50
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Repaired my cluster yesterday... Mine is still analog - has a physical odometer and the older style gauges that are electric rather than electronic.
My clock was resetting almost every time I started the car - this was despite the usual things being in good health (battery cables, grounds, etc). As I suspected there was an electrolytic capacitor that had swollen and popped on the board. I followed the traces and they went right to the clock module - jackpot! Replaced that along with the other matching capacitor on the board with new ones. Cost: $1.50 CAD.
I also had issues with my fuel / temp gauges. They were randomly dropping down to 1/4 scale then returning part way to where they should be. The result was I couldn't really ever tell where my temperature was at which ain't good with road trip season starting. I replaced the old obsolete 10V regulator with its modern generic equivalent. The old regulators have the pinout backwards so the new one needs to be installed upside down. If you buy one from VW you get the new regulator with a brass spacer to screw it to the heat sink for about $40. The regulator itself plus some small washers to use as a spacer cost about $3.00.
Both fixes were successful - had a bunch of errands to run yesterday and saw my fuel level and temperature stay right where they should be plus my clock showed the correct time without resetting. Score!
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#26
by
vanbcguy
on 14 Jul, 2017 21:57
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Made up a mounting bracket for my VNT ECU - fits where the stock ECU would be if the car had one:
I also updated my code to work with a VW N75 valve rather than the GM ones I've been using - the GM ones are super noisy while the VW one is barely audible. Unfortunately way more expensive though - I'm going to keep a GM one for LDA cutoff at high EGTs though I don't think I'll be able to make it quite as progressive as it was previously.
For comparison the wastegate VW valves run at about 8 Hz, the GM valves at 30 Hz and the VNT VW valves run at 250 Hz.
Oh yeah, lots of driving around today - my cluster repairs have worked great. Super consistent gauges and a working clock!
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#27
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 19 Jul, 2017 08:45
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any update on your petra and if your vnt ecu install worked out, got boost?
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#28
by
vanbcguy
on 19 Jul, 2017 11:05
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Still finishing up wiring - as of yesterday all the boost and vacuum lines are installed, the CPS and TPS are connected and the solenoids are wired up. I've tested that stuff and verified it all works.
The VW N75 valve is virtually silent compared to the GM ones I used before - VERY welcome change. Appears to have the same range of duty cycle control as the GM solenoids too which is awesome since I don't need to change my maps.
Hoping to get it done today. All that's left is to run the wire for the display in to the cabin and to connect the power up permanently.
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#29
by
vanbcguy
on 20 Jul, 2017 02:00
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Drove today with the controller in place finally......
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.....
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...and discovered a massive boost leak. One of the mounting tabs on one of my boost pipes peeled itself off the pipe at some point leaving a giant gash. Not too happy about that.
Gave some tape a try as a short term fox but it burst almost immediately, guess 25+ PSI is too much. Gonna try a muffler bandage or something tomorrow then try and head out to the fab shop to get them to fix it.
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