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#60
by
Dakotakid
on 26 Jan, 2018 18:09
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I'm willing to bet you have almost nothing left of your alt. regulator brushes. Better pull it and see before you are back to walking.
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#61
by
srgtlord
on 30 Apr, 2018 22:22
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Finally installed my g60 valve cover. Holy moly it stopped all oil leaks after I spread a bit of grey silicon on the back of the gasket
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#62
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Apr, 2018 22:57
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Thurs and Fri were spent pulling passenger axle, hub, front bearing and tie rod end replacement. Getting the grease off the rotor and pads was a trick but I have brakes again.
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#63
by
Rabbit79
on 15 May, 2018 10:33
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Today I finally put a vane style vacuum pump on the old Rabbit...... For whatever reason the old pump started burning through diaphragms. Sometimes I'd get 3 months out of a diaphragm, sometimes they'd barely last a week. Even replaced that pump with a used one and it was even worse, so I went back to my original. Pretty easy switch-over. The hardest part was manufacturing a blank off plate for where the oil hose came out of the block. I just took a piece of 1/4 inch plate I had laying around, cut it to shape, drilled the holes, and painted it. Took longer for the paint to dry than anything else. Hopefully I will now have years of trouble free vacuum assisted braking in my future.
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#64
by
ORCoaster
on 16 May, 2018 00:49
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What no gasket between block and plate? Going to be weepy I fear.
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#65
by
Rabbit79
on 19 May, 2018 18:20
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What no gasket between block and plate? Going to be weepy I fear.
Oh there's a gasket there, and said gasket is gooped up with Ultra Blue. Should be no problems.
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#66
by
srgtlord
on 26 May, 2018 23:41
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Looked at my golf today and shed a single tear since it has been demoted to project car status since purchasing a newer car.
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#67
by
ORCoaster
on 27 May, 2018 14:51
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I hope you used the tear to moisten a cloth and started waxing it.
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#68
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Jun, 2018 16:30
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Yesterday I was able to swap out the old IP in the NA 1.6 with a newer TD pump and a set of 155 bar injectors. I am slowing getting to the point where I will just have to drive something else and put the manifolds on and exhaust purchased.
But in swapping the pump I first verified that the TD pump would indeed spit fuel out the back by turning it with a drill and socket on the front nut. Then I capped the in and out lines. I put it on the workbench for about a month before getting to it yesterday. So the pump had fuel in and thru it.
I pulled the current working pump off the Caddy and didn't exactly get it back on the next day. But the day after. So I hook up all the lines and leave the top injector nuts loose enough that I can see fuel coming out after I crank on. Proper process for dry lines and injectors right? Well I figured I might run into trouble with the battery so I also connected my Jump N Carry pack for good measure.
I hit the key and accelerator and give it about three good cranks. I get out and sure enough I have wet injector tops. So button those nuts down and let's hear what this thing sounds like. Several cranks and the batteries are loosing it. Not even a pop or a puff of smoke. OK, I go get the battery charger and stick that on as well. I hit the boost on the charger and the engine is chugging away but no joy on the start part.
I cycled through several cooling minutes to keep the starter happy but never did get the engine to go. In the process I forgot to turn the charger off the boost cycle and it got hot enough to turn off. Thermal protection works, good to know but not now eh? That piece of equipment went in the deep freeze for a few minutes and I was back in business. But still not getting anything to top of the injectors or out the back now.
Anyone figure out why?
Well I finally did. Seems that when I pulled the line off the inlet on the old pump I forgot to plug it. The way it was jacked up caused the filter to drain. So yeah I thought I had enough in the pump to pull more in and keep it running but not so. I hooked up a fuel line to the top of the IP and started a vacuum top the point that I had fuel coming out that fitting. I put it all together and left the #3 nut loose as a double check.
Jumped inside and hit the key for one crank and varoom! Off it goes. I had to turn it off and reattach the #3 nut. It came right back up and was a bit shaky for a few revs but otherwise it was good to go. I took it around town and found that it lacks a wee bit of power heading up the steeper, and longer hills but that is why I want the turbo on in the first place.
In looking around on this site last night I was able to find an explanation from Giles why they went to 155 bar injectors for the turbos. The engineers didn't want to have the higher cylinder pressures kicking off the weaker 130 bar ones and getting a second injection late. So what did they design the TDI injectors to do?
I also found a line by Giles that reminded me of a mod/ tuning tip I used on the Rabbit. Increasing the internal pressure or at least knowing it was near the 43 lbs it should be. That allows proper advance later as the pump winds up on upshift. I need to check this TD pump for that pressure or for when the advance kicks in. The Rabbit runs much nicer so it must be capable of coming up sooner. Not a bad thing actually. Coming up at 2400 rpm is so much better than 3100 for upshifting.
Felt like a noob not being sure both filter and pump were up with fuel prior to start on this one. Just glad I figured it out before more time was spent cranking on an empty pump.
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#69
by
srgtlord
on 03 Jul, 2018 23:53
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Finally got around to doing the head gasket on my 85 golf. My god... I hope I dont have to do another anytime soon
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#70
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Jul, 2018 22:30
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Today was a struggle with the ignition switch and a replacement of the inside CV boot on the drivers side. I am currently driving 100 miles a day on a road nick named the Brama Hwy. So many turns, bumps, rough road and dips. Definitely good training for an autocross. But it is taking a toll on the Caddy.
Ignition wires into the back of the switch are loose even after crimping a little and bending out the tab that keeps them in. All seem a bit sloppy and a real pain to start. I have to reach under the steering wheel column and push on the back of the switch to get it to send voltage to the starter solenoid. Took the switch, a new one, apart and contacts are black and scorched. Poor contacts, eating each other away at this point. Time to think on solutions.
Happy 4th just the same. At least the axle was a non problem for the most part.
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#71
by
srgtlord
on 15 Jul, 2018 22:11
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Finally drove the 85 golf after finishing up the "minor" details of the timing belt and full coolant hose replacement
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#72
by
ORCoaster
on 12 Aug, 2018 23:48
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After sitting for nearly 6 weeks without running I started the Caddy. Not a problem with the battery or addition of switched starter relay now. Ignition switch problem worked around.
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#73
by
trangctv
on 05 Sep, 2018 00:48
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nothing special. Just driver
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#74
by
ORCoaster
on 05 Sep, 2018 22:53
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Took the Caddy for a 100 mile trip to get to work today. Ran much better with the new lubed axles, and yesterdays oil change. Purred right along at 60-65 in fifth with EGTs at the 6-800 mark. Still no turbo in it yet. Might need to get cracking on that project before the rains come down.