This covers the head porting and machine work. I really just stuck to the basics, like whats covered in the david vizard guide that's stickied somewhere on this forum. i went with a less is more, just cleaning things up type of attitude. Then had the exhaust valve guides replaced, 3 angle valve job on all the seats, 30 degree back cut on all the valves, and
autotech hd dual valve springs installed.
Everything here is just a huge snowball effect over the last few years of me continually falling for the idea of "while you're in there."
i used this piece of cardboard to match the intake manifold to the intake ports. i didnt use the gasket because I didn't want to enlarge anymore than it took to make them match. In hindsight i probably would have been better off just using the gasket since it wasn't obnoxiously large and it would have made sure each port was the same shape.
I colored marker around the intake ports so i could scribe around them for port matching. I used aluminum bits for grinding out the ports, and then finished with sandpaper the aluminum bits are very aggressive, I can see why many of the experts use double cut bits intended for grinding steel .
The exhaust ports started like this, there was a fair amount of shift between the top and bottom of the port.
Here's a picture from the machine shop when they were done with the machine work. 3/4angle valve job, new exhaust guides, 30 degree back cut on all the valves, and assemble with autotech HD dual valve springs.
here is the valve job. I forget whether it was the intakes or exhausts, but one of them needed an extra angle to make a smooth transition into the seat. So one set is 3 angles, and one set is 4 angles.
Here is a comparison of a backcut valve (left) and a non backcut valve(right). This helps to improve low lift flow, and makes the engine behave similarly as if it had a longer duration cam.
Backcut valves ready for assembly.