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Ijnection Pump Main Shaft Play Tolerence
by
orbitald
on 12 Sep, 2013 15:26
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I have an TD injection pump 068130081F on my 1.9 AAZ that has been leaking out of the cold start shaft seal. When removing the pump I noticed that the main shaft had some side to side play which I measured at .635mm. I have read in other posts that the tolerance is .2mm but I wanted to check and make sure that .635 is too much play to use. I have also read that there are no main shaft bearings or bushings in this type of pump and that the only option is to get a new case. Is that true? Has anybody milled the old case and inserted a bushing? How do I find the part number for the case on this pump?
Thanks,
David R.
Oakland CA
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 12 Sep, 2013 15:55
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There are 2 brass? bushings in the case that can be pressed out and replaced. I think the Bosch number is 0 460 400 004 but it's been a while.
0.635mm sounds excessive. Where are you measuring from?
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#2
by
CRSMP5
on 12 Sep, 2013 20:16
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rule of thumb... if you see it move its too loose... you positive it not shaft seal leaking vs adv? does not take much to leak.. takes only little more to loose pump prime...
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#3
by
orbitald
on 12 Sep, 2013 20:43
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Here is a photo of my measurement setup.
(Sorry for the blurry photo)
I measured up and down play to be about .635mm.
I'm pretty sure it was leaking from the cold start lever as it was dripping from that side of the pump not the front although if I replace the main shaft bushings I will replace the seal there too.
Is there any instructions, procedure, service manual, or help available to replace the main shaft bushings?
Thanks again!
David
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#4
by
CRSMP5
on 12 Sep, 2013 22:36
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you gotta take it 100% apart.... not screw up the voodoo.. and get all the voodoo back in.... any "mess up" = new pump.. as the parts that get damaged cost more... i still not taken one apart... and been screwing with them pre licence.. and owned diesels since 89... when i got it... so one day.. ill go visit someone.. till that day.. it can only cost me more.. so if i both up they can say so..
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#5
by
orbitald
on 13 Sep, 2013 09:55
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Thanks CRSMP5. I've looked around on the forum and see that not many tread into these waters but what is there to loose? If the pump is not usable as-is then why not try and fix it.
I remember seeing a Bosch VE service manual available but the links were always dead. Might someone have that manual they could send me?
Thanks again!
David
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#6
by
Toby
on 13 Sep, 2013 16:44
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It is important to remember that "too much" for the factory does not mean any part is unserviceable. Remember that the factory spec for IDI compression is 490 psi. Below that they say you need a rebuild.
If the IP worked when you took it off, I would reseal it and run it. The IP shaft only spins the lift pump before sturning the business end of the IP through an universal joint affair, so slop in the shaft has little effect on anything except leaks. A good seal at the shaft is all that is required.
BTW, I suspect your measurement is off. .635 mm is about .026". That is a tight spark plug gap. The shaft would rattle in the bore when you shake the pump at that amount of clearance. Make sure the test indicator is firmly attached to the IP. If it is not affixed to the pump itself your measurement is likely off.
Also, test indicators are normally used to test less than .005"-.010". Any chance you are really measuring .063 mm. At .635 the shaft would click in the bore if you wiggle it.
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#7
by
orbitald
on 13 Sep, 2013 23:50
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Thanks for the comments Toby. I'm certain that I over tightened the timing belt as I previously changed the pump myself and did not know exactly what I was doing. Because of this my timing belt ran to close to the shield and wore itself away until it skipped a few teeth and a valve hit a lifter damaging the head. I replaced the head about a month ago. Its a classic beginner mistake that has cost me too much already but I enjoy working on it and learning along the way. Its an expensive education though.
Last week I noticed a leak in the pump and while inspecting it I saw that the pump sprocket looked a bit wobbly.
The dial indicator in the photo is indeed firmly attached to the pump housing and is quite solid. I tested the side to side play a few times and it truly is .635 mm (.025").
Yesterday I tried to run a spare pump (in unknown condition) that was sitting on the shelf for a couple of years. (see thread "Spare Injection Pump has Super Fast Idle") but it needs some help as well.
I've ordered a working pump from somebody on the list so I have something to drive.
As I now have two pumps that need service I'm going to go ahead and try to repair them myself. I know I may screw them up but they are worthless to me as they are and its costs a pretty penny to have someone else rebuild them.
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#8
by
TylerDurden
on 14 Sep, 2013 05:55
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I read on the interwebz that the bushing needs to be reamed precisely, using special jigs.
My local shop will install and ream a bushing to the shaft diameter for ~$50, if I bring them the empty case and mainshaft... maybe a shop in your area will also.
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#9
by
fatmobile
on 15 Sep, 2013 22:26
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I wouldn't think up and down would be where most of the slop would show up, as the belt pulls the sprocket inward some.
.001" is what they get reamed to..
Bushings are very cheap,.. and $50 to have them reamed sounds like a good deal; if you can pull a pump apart and put it back together.
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#10
by
CRSMP5
on 16 Sep, 2013 09:41
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honestly... as your learning curve prooves expensive... maybe talking to a person like libby on a rebuild/fix of your 2 pumps into 1? if you damage the i part thats $$ value of pump then you have 0 value.. but if those good in both.. the extra has some value.. and you know your pumps been done right... vs a ticking pin pulled grenade...
you also have no idea what else to look for when inside it ... it really is a specialized thing... and i give props to those who have it figured out..
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#11
by
orbitald
on 16 Sep, 2013 11:32
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#12
by
CRSMP5
on 16 Sep, 2013 14:55
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id prefer a day/meet up with group of people.. few pumps and someone who knows what they are doing.. id pay for a day of learning... lots of info out there.. learning from someone the little tips/tricks/what to look for.. to me thats the value..
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#13
by
orbitald
on 16 Sep, 2013 16:54
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#14
by
745 turbogreasel
on 17 Sep, 2013 00:06
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I've done it successfully, but don't know that I have much to teach. If you've rebuilt a carb and an auto trans you won't see anything new inside an IP.
Be sure to mark every shaft and arm you remove.
Santa Cruz isn't so far from Oakland I guess.