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#15
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Aug, 2013 10:23
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Plugged filters produce a vaccuum on the pump side of the system. Got a gauge to throw on the flange? Reduced flow means reduced pressure in the IP and less delivery. Mine was acting like I had the fuel screw turned out too far and on idle it was OK but try and take off from anything other than a flat it would bog down and nearly crap out. My system had no other leaks so no air being drawn up and visable through the clear lines.
Just some thoughts on this one.
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#16
by
Chev2dub
on 09 Aug, 2013 12:24
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What your are saying makes sense. I'm just unsure of what flange your talking about throwing a guage on. Idk maybe it could have sucked some stuff off the bottom but old filter was replaced before I tried starting it. If I hold the throttle it runs well as soon as I back off the throttle it will idle then lug then idle fine then lug. Lugging or dieseling and there is white smoke the whole time smell like fuel
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#17
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Aug, 2013 16:56
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Now the lugging and white smoke are a condition of retarded or very advanced timing. Are you square with that? I was thinking the you could put gauge on in place of the air bleeder valve on the top of the flange that hold the fuel filter on. There's one on my MK1 Rabbit. not sure what we are dealing with here other than a diesel 1.6 NA engine.
You should see some vaccuum on the gauge but numbers above 5 are a worry and 7 a bad I think. Try a search on the forum for vaccuum and fuel line or filter and I suspect you will get a few hits and might double check the numbers.
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#18
by
theman53
on 09 Aug, 2013 19:51
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Maybe, probably. I still think there is some air there
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Aug, 2013 20:32
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Darn well could be. Until you can rev it up real good a couple of times then there tends to be pockets of it stuck in the IP. Once you flush it out the idle and such may smooth out.
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#20
by
Chev2dub
on 16 Aug, 2013 06:19
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There was still air in the ip I found this out after bleeding the system for the better part of 45 mins lol still have white smoke so I'm going to mess with the pump timing soonish too... Also I'm going to triple check for more air in the lines also. Ill report back thanks guys
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#21
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Aug, 2013 10:02
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disclaimer; what I am about to say is considered wrong (albeit successful) .. follow my advice at your own risk
Get the engine warmed up via running it, idling, raised RPM.. your choice. Shut it down. Loosen the four pump mounting bolts with the engine not running so that you can move the pump with effort, not so that it is sloppy in its mount however. Start the engine up and idle it while you go around to the front and move the pump back and forth about 1/16" at a time until it runs better. IF it does not, then you have different issues than static timing.
Where ever you set it if it runs better and is not overly CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK coming from the cylinder head, you are most likely very close to the ideal timing setting for your particular engine. No smoke at idle, no popping when revving up, and not overly CLACK CLACK from the cylinders. The clacking is the fuel being injected so advanced that it is igniting against the piston coming up in the cylinder, similar to pinging in a gas engine.
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#22
by
homerj1
on 16 Aug, 2013 10:30
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disclaimer; what I am about to say is considered wrong (albeit successful) .. follow my advice at your own risk
Get the engine warmed up via running it, idling, raised RPM.. your choice. Shut it down. Loosen the four pump mounting bolts with the engine not running so that you can move the pump with effort, not so that it is sloppy in its mount however. Start the engine up and idle it while you go around to the front and move the pump back and forth about 1/16" at a time until it runs better. IF it does not, then you have different issues than static timing.
Where ever you set it if it runs better and is not overly CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK coming from the cylinder head, you are most likely very close to the ideal timing setting for your particular engine. No smoke at idle, no popping when revving up, and not overly CLACK CLACK from the cylinders. The clacking is the fuel being injected so advanced that it is igniting against the piston coming up in the cylinder, similar to pinging in a gas engine.
I had great success with above advice.
The key I found, was not too be too shy with the movement of the ip. I advanced it so far that the clacking noise was quite loud, then backed off a bit until it quietens down.
The result, no white smoke on startup, a quick start up and seemingly tons more power. ( in relative 60ish hp terms)
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#23
by
Chev2dub
on 17 Aug, 2013 11:08
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While adjusting the pump... How fast should the white smoke clear up when I have the correct timing, a few mins a few seconds??? I'm going to truly this tommrow
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Aug, 2013 11:42
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Immidiately.
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#25
by
Chev2dub
on 18 Aug, 2013 13:58
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I've bleed the hell out of this thing.... And I'm still having a small amount of air in the return line Ive tried cracking the lines at the injectors while running... I cracked the lines at the pump. It shows air barley when you get on the throttle I have all new VW return lines from injector to injextor
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#26
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Aug, 2013 14:43
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Not the issue then. if the bubbles are sitting at a high spot in the line it is likely fine.
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#27
by
Chev2dub
on 18 Aug, 2013 19:31
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i get air bubbles in the return when i rev it... This has been by far the most frustrating..... things that make sense to me Maybe the IP main shaft seal is FUBAR
?? thats about the only way air could be getting in. ive tried bleeding all the lines while running Ive also tried to bleed the lines as Bentley says crack all 4 lines and tighten them one by one. motor actually starts running 2 injectors in and of course smooths out once all are tight. Ive noticed when it heats up to operating temp if its running smoothly it will start to run lumpy like it has air in the system when the fan kicks on and stops when the fan is off?
ALSO: when it was running kinda smooth Ive also tried to adjust the timing by hand white smoke still runs out and i do not notice to much difference in the them running when i try to advance it (towards the motor) or when i retard it.... im going to dial time it again soonish when ever i can get the tools to my disposal again. hopefully this week... again guys thanks for all the help! getting replies almost helps me not wana bash my head off the wall with frustration!
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#28
by
TylerDurden
on 18 Aug, 2013 19:39
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Ja, I'd suspect the IP main seal.
One way to know if you are close on the timing is if the cold-start lever has a significant effect (lumpy when engine is cold unless CS is pulled).
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#29
by
Chev2dub
on 08 Sep, 2013 18:17
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Pump timing I was apparently 180 out and we used a gueniune dial indicator