Guys, I wanted to take a few minutes to post and let you know the final outcome of my 1.6 build and the effects of ARP head studs.
As you may remember, 6 mos ago, I installed the studs and fired the engine (dry) to get some heat into it, and then allowed it to cool completely down to retorque the studs.
This startup sequence allowed the head to expand and compress the head gasket, and I had lost over 30% of the torque values within the first 5-10 minutes of start up - which highlights two things:
First, those studs were doing their job. The bi-directional clamping forces of the studs allowed for the direct compression of the gasket - versus expansion of the cyl head and stock bolts - wherein the bolts (as I understand it) lose torque over the first 1000 miles, which is when the mfg's retorque is recommended.
Second, as noted above, such a quick drop in values would not have been observed when using the stretch bolts, which are uni-directional clamping devices subject to expansion in synch with the aluminum cylinder head and, depending on driving styles, could IMHO render the 1000 mile spec arbitrary and possibly reduce longevity of the sealed surfaces - though I don't have any data to support it. Maybe others can chime in and share their thoughts and experiences on this subject using comparative data. Nevertheless, I am very happy with my decision to use the studs and will keep you posted on long term performance.
Once the head studs were returqued, to 110 ft. lbs. and ran over the next several months, it was apparent the studs were doing their job, with no erosion of torque values and all cylinders checking in at 475-485 psi - with zero fluid leaks.
I will in the near future check the torque values of the studs, just for insurance, but I'm pleased to share that I am more than happy with the ARP studs, and the next step up in this build will be the addition of a Giles Performance injector pump, which I ordered this past week.
Again, just thought you guys might want to know members experiences, and I highly recommend the upgrade to studs for the 1.6.
One other thing for the Mods:
I had posted a technical article on "how to" install a marine fuel sending unit in the MK1's for those having problems finding new (cheap) replacment sending units, but I don't see it listed in the "Tech Tips" forum. Can I move the post, or can you assist with having it moved ?
I'm happy to report the conversion to the "marine grade" fuel sending unit I posted is working better than the original units, since the float operates on the vertical plane - instead of the pivoting arm. It's extremely accurate and works great with the factory gauge.
I've also recently upgraded the throttle linkage on my injector pump to eliminate the factory stuff, including the rubber bushing which I've had trouble locating. I will post photos and details on the conversion, and I'm happy to report is work (and looks) much cleaner than the factory stuff. In fact, if "pimping" your injector pump with underhood glitz appeals to you, then you'll like this upgrade.
Thanks for site !
David
Maybe not in the BLING group but falls into the IP Throttle Mod class. Stock cable, Cruise and Deadman Cable for High idle or cruise capability.
From the top and far away. Has IP Gauge mod too.
How do you work this "Dead mans" pedal?
OP, I will look in to the post you speak of with the sending unit.
Maybe like a tractor throttle? Friction hold?
Traditionally a dead man switch is one
that releases or turns off unless it's being held manually, like an automotive throttle.
Pop a hood on an 80's Merc, gas or diesel, and there's enough fun parts on the throttle
linkage to fab up most stuff. It's my usual go-to. That and aircraft cable with crimp fittings.
Yes, yes.. I get the idea behind a dead mans pedal lol. I wanted to know how Dale worked his
Tractor throttle is a tad different though as they have no springs on the throttle shaft.
I may have to look in to it.
Dale will be a dead man if he continues to use the stiff cable instead of the cruise control.
8V-- The cable comes off the throttle and into the cab, slides in and out of an outer cable. The outer cable is zip tied onto the throttle bracket so it no move. Inside secured to the dash. The tiny bit of chain allows the throttle to move without having to "push" the cable in any way.
OK, to make it work. Push yer foot down to the position you want the throttle to be at. Say you're all shifted up into 5th and doing 65 MPH. Just hook two fingers around the knob and set the cable against the position of the throttle. The resistance of the inner to outer parts hold the throttle at that spot. Take your foot off and you keep on going the set speed. Go off the road or have something come up in a hurry you could be a Dead Man. Or some say a dead man can drive a car like that at that speed as long as the road is straight.
The problem is the hills, you won't go the same speed up and down them. Just the opposite, faster down, slower up. You can really upset some of those cruise control drivers with it. Forces them to hit coast and resume all the time. I really use it most to just set a higher idle in the morning to warm it up as I scrape the windows or need to run back in the house for something. I tap it down pretty quick at the first light.
I really wanted one of those throttle cables that you pull out and turn to lock but ended up just using a simple 5 buck cable from the auto parts place. Too much trouble to find the other. My IP doesn't have the idle bump contraption on it like some. So I have two knobs on the dash to really confuse people. Choke? Nope. Fresh air vent? Nope. So what do they do? Gotta drive to know. Or read here.
I think the W115 Mercedes diesel had a manual supplemental throttle for cold idle. Might have on the W123 240D, been awhile. 300D did not.
I rigged a manual control once for the electric cruise servo on a 300D when the amp died the day before a long trip. PITA but better than nothing. Not at all safe, but neither is a rabbit.
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