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JASGTI's 84 Rabbit L Diesel
by
JASGTi
on 15 Feb, 2013 20:52
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It's about time that I posted this up on here. I have had this car for awhile and am trying to bring it back to it's full potential. This car is my third Rabbit diesel, the first an '80 with a melted head that got traded of for gasser parts. The second a rusty '81 with a broken timing belt that was beyond saving.
When I first got it.
Rust I still need to address
I ran this car for over two years on 3 paper routes with minimal issues. Since it has been sitting for a long while it now loses prime rather fast and requires a freshly charged battery or a good pull to start. Bad thing about the pull start is the clutch is going out (that is what I get for teaching the wife to drive stick
).
I currently have gathered some tools and parts.I am waiting to pull the trans before I order the clutch since I know there were two different sizes used.
Little vid of me getting it running yesterday:
http://youtu.be/dGZTlWbEkAQ
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#1
by
scrounger
on 15 Feb, 2013 23:21
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Pretty clean car. Hope you get it running well again.
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#2
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Feb, 2013 01:42
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I currently have gathered some tools and parts.I am waiting to pull the trans before I order the clutch since I know there were two different sizes used.
Three (3) different sizes used. But more than likely it is a 200mm setup being that it is a 1.6 diesel. 190mm came on the lower powered gas engines, and I have seen the 210mm come on 1.8 gas engines, the 1.9 AAZ and SB euro 1.6 diesel engines.
Since it has been sitting for a long while it now loses prime rather fast and requires a freshly charged battery or a good pull to start.
You've got a leak at one of the connection in your fuel lines. Check them all over and replace any clamps that look suspect.
Also the small lines in your video that were empty or had bubbles in them. They shouldn't be full of fuel, so them being empty is not a sign of the pump loosing prime. The engine revved up what sounded like normally indicating to me that the pump was fully purged of air. However I do recommend a 4-5psi electric pump pre-filter to help pull fuel from the tank in cases of drain back and just to make your IP's life a little easier.
Mine as seen in the next picture, Clear fuel line for both feed and return.. and an electric pump pre-filter with the red and white wires wrapped around it.
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#3
by
JASGTi
on 16 Feb, 2013 05:56
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I am definitely going to replace the stock lines as they appear to be original to the car. I have only replaced the returns and the supply line from the filter to the pump. I did watch the air in the main line get sucked into the pump as I cranked the engine. I would have gotten a little vid of it but my daughter was to scared to crank the car for me.
It is definitely going to be fun to bring it back to life and be able to have it as a reliable driver again.
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#4
by
scrounger
on 16 Feb, 2013 08:11
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I don't want to drag this off topic. What is the pre filter for with the red wires going into it. It looks like it may go back into the fuel cutoff on the Injection pipe.
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#5
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Feb, 2013 12:10
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I did watch the air in the main line get sucked into the pump as I cranked the engine.
This was after only sitting a small bit? Well if all the lines are good and what not, then you have a leak at a connection somewhere. If the highest part of the system is sealed (the pump) then there should be no drain back. But if air anywhere lower than the pump can get in and allow the pump to have air in it it will allow the fuel to eventually drain back.
What is the pre filter for with the red wires going into it. It looks like it may go back into the fuel cutoff on the Injection pipe.
Now why would a filter have wires running to it?
That is a pre-filter
electric fuel pump The red wires grounds to the shock tower and the white wire grabs power from the IP's fuel cut-off. It is on anytime the key is on. It restores any lost prime whilst the glows are on, and provides the filter and IP with a steady 4-5 psi.
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#6
by
JASGTi
on 19 Feb, 2013 21:04
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I have been gathering up some parts for a pump reseal and few other projects.
Replaced the EBAY seal kit I bought 5 years ago and never installed with a Bosch kit. Got a new set of glows on sale from Amazon (never knew they did auto parts). The pieces to replace the fusible link in the glow system. Timing Belt/Tensioner, and new coolant hoses since they have been soaked in leaked fuel.
Some Harbor Freight goodies. Hope the tester can be used in the injector hole instead of the glows.
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#7
by
JASGTi
on 19 Feb, 2013 21:48
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Been trying to find the timing tools for cheap. But only finding them from Prothe. Anyone know somewhere else to get them for a halfway decent price?
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Feb, 2013 23:16
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Get the ones from Prothe.
Your gonna use them three times.. why spend big money? I don't even use mine any more...
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#9
by
ORCoaster
on 20 Feb, 2013 00:40
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Harbor Fright tester works in the injector hole or the glows. Injectors easier to take out as adapter with all proper pieces is direct fit. Glow take off works if your remove the IP and the lines as well as the glows and bus bar. Just easier to remove lines and injectors and take wire off IP when cranking.
I have this similar setup and it does fine. Schrader valves at top of adapters and button bleed off to release pressure.
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#10
by
JASGTi
on 22 Feb, 2013 18:16
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Took the car out for a little drive today. Still leaking fuel like crazy. Exhaust still leaks. But it was so much damn fun.
Car still acts like it has a miss when it's cold. Also noticed that the number one injector blows bubbles at the base of the injector and head.
Got more of my parts in from AZ today, hopefully get some time in the garage here in the next couple of weeks.
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#11
by
ORCoaster
on 22 Feb, 2013 21:55
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Sounds like you didn't get the #1 cylinder injector down tight enough. Remove check the shield and reform if needed and re-install.
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#12
by
JASGTi
on 22 Feb, 2013 22:25
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I've never pulled the injectors on this engine, just the lines when I did glows back when I got it.
Guess I am in for more fun once I get into the garage.
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#13
by
CrazyAndy
on 23 Feb, 2013 11:25
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Hopefully you don't have pitting from bad spray, and it's just a bad injector seal that's causing the miss.
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#14
by
JASGTi
on 23 Feb, 2013 19:51
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Hopefully you don't have pitting from bad spray, and it's just a bad injector seal that's causing the miss.
I hope so. I guess I will find out when I get to run the compression test before I pull the pump off for a reseal. Hopefully I get lucky and find some one local with a pop tester.
PS come fix mah headliner Andy!!