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I need the real deal on oils.
by
A Guy
on 28 Feb, 2006 12:20
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With this "lovely" weather we've had lately the little miser(91 1.6 N/A golf) just doesn't want to go. Another thread said oil was a big issue if you're running 15w-40 - I am. I've been trying to find 5w-40 in a semi synthetic I found one place- quite deer to say the least. My dad and I talked about it and his opinion was I should just go to full synthetic. I like the cost and durability of my conventional Motomaster 15w 40. If I go to Full synthetic I can't go back and it'll be expensive. Anyone know of a semi that's at least 5w 40 or 0w 40?
??. Is this the right thought process? I can "go back" from Semi-syn. right??? :?:
out.
Greg
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#1
by
wyldman
on 28 Feb, 2006 13:08
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You can use semi-synthetic,or full synthetic,and switch back and forth if you wish.
Canadian tire carries Castrol Syntec in 5W40 for around $35 a 4 litre jug.You will probably need 5 litres.So either buy an extra litre,or an extra jug.It makes a big difference in the cold temperatures.The Syntec 5W40 is VW and diesel approved.
I've been running this stuff for a while,both summer and winter,and it will easily go 10-12000 Km between changes based on oil change analysis.I buy 3-4 litre jugs,and 4 good filters.Change it,and use 5 litres.After 6000 Km,or 3 months,I change the filter only,and use another litre to top off what was lost in the dirty filter.After 12000 Km,or 6 months,I change the oil and filter again,using 5 more litres.You will now have 1 litre and one filter left to be changed at the next 6000 Km interval.So for $180 for oil and filters,your good for 24000 Km or one year.Not a bad price,works out to $45 every 3 months,and it starts and runs better year round.Good for 1-2 MPG too.
You can also get Wal-mart brand 15W40 Semi-synthetic for $13 a 4 litre jug,which seem to flow better than reg 15W40 dino oil in the colder weather.Cheaper,but not quite as good as the Syntec.It will not go as long between changes,5-6000 Km max.
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#2
by
zyewdall
on 28 Feb, 2006 15:48
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I've never heard the thing about not switching back and forth either...
I just got 4 quarts of Delo 5W40 full synthetic for US$27 -- compared to about $8 for a gallon of regular Delo 15W40. You could make your own semi-synthetic by mixing half and half 15W40 and synthetic 5W40. I do this in my gas engines (mixing 20W50 and synthetic 5W50)
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#3
by
bhtooefr
on 01 Mar, 2006 06:35
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Or, get 4 quarts of Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 (it's a Group III oil, though), for $14 at Wal-Mart. Best Group III you can buy, and MORE than enough protection for an NA diesel.
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#4
by
A Guy
on 01 Mar, 2006 10:57
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See this contradicts what I've been told about full synthetic. It is my understanding that you can go from dino oil to synthetic but you can't go back. Something to do with seals breaking down if you go back to dino. I do in the area of 100 K/year. :shock:
I'm self employeed - cost is always an issue. This golf has been a saviour in that regard. That being said It's hard to make money when your mode of transport won't start.
I end up changing my oil/filter every 4 weeks depending on my schedule.
Is a full synthetic going to be that much better than a semi? I realise I'll get more K's before swaping the oil but it looks like the filter change interval stays about the same.
Further replies are much appreciated.
out.
Greg
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#5
by
A Guy
on 02 Mar, 2006 06:50
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Also, what about blowing oil. I've put in "the fix" to get me to warmer temps. I am catching the oil so I'm doing my best to keep my environmental impact to a minimum. If I go to 5-40 won't I blow more oil?
Thanks
Greg
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#6
by
Kevin L
on 02 Mar, 2006 07:19
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I swear by synthetic, starts easier in all temps and lasts longer between changes. The trade off is because it lubricates better it leeks better too, so you need good gaskets and seals.
at minus 15-18 C and below plug it in, it is better for everything
I have mine on a timer it only needs 2-3 hours to warm up before you need to go in the morning.
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#7
by
Kevin L
on 02 Mar, 2006 07:23
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Blowing oil? "the fix" ?
Please tell more :?
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#8
by
bhtooefr
on 02 Mar, 2006 08:15
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I suspect that "the fix" is an engine oil additive.
Quit using it, it's doing more harm than good.
Now, for your oil weight, you're in a bind here.
VW recommends 10W30 in your conditions. The problem is, that'll make the blowby problem WORSE, not better. However, 10W30 dino's gonna be cheaper than 5W40 synth, and you're gonna blow it by anyway.
I'd suggest reringing the thing, though. Can anyone provide a guide on doing this? The ep0niks Bentley is unclear.
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#9
by
A Guy
on 02 Mar, 2006 08:51
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This is what I'm afraid of I can't afford to blow more oil. I was able to start the car this morning as a result of the warmer weather. I'll probably stick with 15w-40 'till I do the rebuild and switch for next winter.
There is a really good post here. Basically I routed the breather from the top of the valve cover to the side(about 1/3 from the top) of some ABS plastic piping (2"Diameter, I beleive). Then I ran a line out ot the side (about 2" from the top of the pipe back to the intake. The pipe is 2/3 -3/4 full of steel wool. Both the top and bottom of the pipe are capped. You should put a bleeder valve at the bottom of the pipe to drain the oil. I let mine sit in a dog food can so the oil doesn't go everywhere. This eliminated my "runaway" issue. I plan to do a rebuild in the coming future. It made the car much more drivable on the highway.
I'll see if I can find the post
out.
Greg
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#10
by
A Guy
on 02 Mar, 2006 09:06
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#11
by
wyldman
on 02 Mar, 2006 13:26
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Your starting problem are probably due to low compression.
Skip spending money on oil and additives,and get a used\rebuilt motor,or rebuild yours.
I can get you a good deal on a rebuilt,or used motor if you need one.
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#12
by
A Guy
on 02 Mar, 2006 14:09
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wyldman,
I don't use additives.
I was planning on getting mine rebuilt. I'm interested in your statement, as I won't mind rebuilding mine myself. It's one of the things I've never done and I expect I'll be doing deisel for much longer.
PM me.
Out!
Greg
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#13
by
wyldman
on 02 Mar, 2006 18:04
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Buy a used 1.6L for a good core,then rebuild it yourself.It will probably just need the crank polished,and rod bearings and rings.Honing the cylinders is usually all that's required.Head will probably need a full rebuild.
You can build the core motor,then swap it in.Rebuild your old motor and resell to recoup your $$$.
I have a few good running used motors,which shouldn't need much to rebuild.
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#14
by
hillfolk'r
on 06 Mar, 2006 16:56
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yo,dont use syntec blend,,i tried it in one of my ol 1.6 diesels,,,it started sludging up,,,,,after a week,for whatever reasoni had the v/c off,and there was black cheesy lookin stuff stuck to the vc,,still felt like oil,but didnt lookright,,,,,,and this engine was clean before this change of oil,,,,,,,,,byebye syntec blend,,glad ihad a filter and rotella,,,,,,,