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What to do: 60k mile Eco D engine sat for 14 years when car was wrecked
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 06 Jan, 2013 08:41
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I bought and stripped clean the wrecked 91 Eco D this past summer. I just pulled the injectors and the diesel that was in there was clean. Injectors came out easy and looks good with no carbon fouling. I filled the injector holes with MMO and after a few minutes, turned the engine over with a ratchet easily.
Oil in the crank case is not sooted black but still clear. I want to install this engine into my 92 Eco eventually. Should I try to run it on the ground first before installing it in the 92? I would need to bolt up the tranny and starter in order to do so. Is it worth the hassel?
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#1
by
vwsb1974
on 06 Jan, 2013 09:36
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I think it would be worth trying to run it on the ground. It is a lot more work to but it in the car to only find out it has a problem.
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#2
by
bbob203
on 06 Jan, 2013 09:46
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Running on ground much easier than putting in car and it not working and you kicking a rock breaking your toe and being pissed.
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#3
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Jan, 2013 10:32
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if you do not have a safe way to run it on the ground, ie. a stand or some blocking to hold it good.. I'd at least mount it in the engine bay.. Whats that take on an mk2? 20 minutes? Saves it rocking around.. or falling on itself and damaging something.
However if you have a safe way to do it on the ground.. YOUTUBE the first start up
!
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#4
by
ORCoaster
on 06 Jan, 2013 10:55
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I would opt for the install. I just wouldn't chance it without a proper stand or secure mount. I run on the percautionary principle for something like this. Talk about kicking a rock and being PO'd. Have that thing drop over running on the moving belt and you will be less than excited about getting it going.
My 2 Cents
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#5
by
TylerDurden
on 06 Jan, 2013 10:56
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I'd at least mount it in the engine bay.. Whats that take on an mk2? 20 minutes? Saves it rocking around.. or falling on itself and damaging something.
Agree (If the engine bay is open). Having a radiator & fan can give you time to check vital signs as the engine warms to operating temp.
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#6
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 06 Jan, 2013 11:31
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I do not have an open engine bay. how about if I have the engine sitting on a tire on the ground and at the same time 50 percent of its weight suspended from an engine hoist?
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#7
by
ORCoaster
on 06 Jan, 2013 11:37
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I think I have seen this technique demonstrated and it seems to support the weight safely. Getting the garden hoses to the radiator intake and having the rest out of the way so you can actually test and tune it might take some doing. Bottle of fuel at the engine hoist is also a fueling means.
I understand you are in a swap out position here and want a good one running to quickly replace the other that is poorly running, but running just the same.
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#8
by
bbob203
on 06 Jan, 2013 11:44
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I've started an engine without water or coolant in it and a dry trans and had no problem. it wasn't running more than a minute though.
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#9
by
libbydiesel
on 06 Jan, 2013 20:07
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14 years is no big deal. I'd just install it with confidence that it will run fine. Before starting it, change the timing belt and tensioner. Squirt a small amount of oil into the cylinders and crank it over by hand a few times to lube the cylinders/rings. Pull the vac pump and spin it with a drill. Then prime the fuel system and run it. I recently revived a 1.6 rabbit that sat outside for 16 years without injectors installed. I took a few more precautions because of dust in the cylinders, but after a couple weekends of work, the engine runs like a top and has been my main driver for a year.
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#10
by
ORCoaster
on 06 Jan, 2013 21:36
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I recently revived a 1.6 rabbit that sat outside for 16 years without injectors installed. I took a few more precautions because of dust in the cylinders, but after a couple weekends of work, the engine runs like a top and has been my main driver for a year.
So this is where all of our luck goes when it comes to fixing up an old car in the driveway. Libby gets it. And we get the intermediate shaft, with loose bearings and pulleys that will never line up.
Good that someone can pull these things out of the weeds and have them "run like a top" Tis the goal of all of us I'd say.
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#11
by
Dakotakid
on 06 Jan, 2013 22:39
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Personally, I would strip the block, measure it, hone it, ring it, and seal it. But, that is just me.
In lieu of that, starting one on the ground is do-able. But, if for any reason (like the oil you put in the cylinders or stuck rings, etc.) you get a run-away.....it will be an experience you will never forget. Probably better put on your Pampers for this very reason.
Edit: If you truly believe this engine has less than 100k miles (I see very few of these odometers working out there....and many of them quit at about 60k or so) there is another alternative. You can pull the head, and use a proper-sized ball hone (please...spare me the douche bottle mentality thingee) (with adequate lube) above each piston (at the bottom of the stroke). Just make sure it is a light uniform hone. And, then clean out the bores with fuel, etc.
This past fall, I did this to a solid lifter 1.6 which had spent almost all of it's life being pulled behind an RV camper. I cold pressure tested the cylinders prior to this and had about 400 to 420 across the board. After we put it together and fired it up, I experienced a great deal of pain in my shoulder turning it over with a wrench. Clearly, the honing enhanced the original rings' ability.
I regretted the whole process because I did not know exactly how well this was going to turn out. My younger friend was short (er) on cash and that was the reason behind the decision. He reports a total lack of oil consumption two months later.
Of course, ALL the seals and intermediate shaft bearings were replaced.
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#12
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Jan, 2013 06:54
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If the cylinders and fuel system weren't open, then 14 years is nothing. Change the timing belt and tensioner, squirt a little oil into each cylinder, turn it over a few times by hand, prime the oil system and fuel system, install it and run it. It may burn extra oil for the first few hundred miles as surface rust is removed from the cylinders but it should settle right back.
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#13
by
CrazyAndy
on 07 Jan, 2013 16:50
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I agree with libs. If the engine was sealed this whole time, then the chance of foreign material in the engine is extremely slim to none. Pull it, do regular maintenance, and install. The only thing I'd really check is the intake and exhaust to see if there's any rats nest stuff, but since you're pulling the engine then that's no problem.
This is a situation where you might be worrying too much.
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#14
by
nwcali6
on 07 Jan, 2013 21:10
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I'd pull the head and look at the walls on the cylinders...
Then you will know if the engine wear is what you'd expect, and can tell if moisture got in (maybe an open valve). If it looks like it has, pull the pistons.
A broke ring can scar the walls and ruin an engine.
Price of a head gasket and your time is cheap compared to ruining the block...
The 1.6 I rebuilt had sat for years also, I just measured everything, honed out the cylinders and put in new pistons/rings... now I'll trust it for 200,000 miles...