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#30
by
wolf_walker
on 25 Nov, 2012 12:19
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Another question is how long it will take the diesel to crack that header to pieces. I'm lead to believe from a number of people over the years that it's "not long".
I'd trade a gasser guy for a dual outlet factory exh manifold and downpipe, or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
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#31
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Nov, 2012 12:26
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WolfW... or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
Well this system has a brace that goes from the bottom of the two tube section to the transmission. SO I think it is going to take the vibration from the diesel OK. It also has a spring loaded clamping flange at the end of the header that buttons up to the rest of the exhaust. So some flex is in the system. Will the diesel destroy it? Not at this point in time. Engine is Out of Commission until further testing and work and the axle on the drivers side needs to be reinstalled. Not a very productive week of repairs this time out.
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#32
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 27 Nov, 2012 11:37
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WolfW... or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
Well this system has a brace that goes from the bottom of the two tube section to the transmission. SO I think it is going to take the vibration from the diesel OK. It also has a spring loaded clamping flange at the end of the header that buttons up to the rest of the exhaust. So some flex is in the system. Will the diesel destroy it? Not at this point in time. Engine is Out of Commission until further testing and work and the axle on the drivers side needs to be reinstalled. Not a very productive week of repairs this time out.
get it to where you can drive it, even if its loud.
drive it to me, ill make it work perfect.. make it look semi OEM even...
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#33
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Nov, 2012 13:57
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Ear plugs and time would be all I need.
Thanks for the offer but I think one weld of a straight pipe on the flange that allows me to insert the same pipe into a flared end plus a clamp it what I need to do here. I can't align the flange very well and have it welded elsewhere so having the ability to turn the flange is necessary. Welding the whole pipe could be done post clamping. I could even take if off the car to do so. So maybe that will be the deal with the shop I find to do the work.
If I bring the car up the coast, you might just tack a spot on the shifter mechanism while under there just to see how I figure out the problem.
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#34
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 28 Nov, 2012 11:01
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clamps leak unless you use the ones VW used to hold the cats on the rest of the exhaust..
u-bolt clamps SUCK..
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#35
by
shorttimer
on 28 Nov, 2012 15:36
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Use v band connectors & solve ALL your exhaust problems. The extra money is worth it. All sizes can be purchased on ebay, so you can choose what diameter exhaust you want.
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#36
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2012 17:31
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Don't that sound dangerous? Like VHF Band or something. Have to look into them first I have heard of them. Shows you how often I do exhaust repairs.
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#37
by
CRSMP5
on 28 Nov, 2012 20:32
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v-band... sweet tits arss sweet bastards... but man no reach round, kiss or lube... i got mine fron amazon.. solid machines stainless, 30ish each... and 30 in shipping...
ive been seeing crushed steel poor quality ones pop up.. these are like single brake line flare... aka doubled over crushed steel.. weak/will crack...
the ones i got are machined ss rings.. hit with tig to pipe.. let the flange flow right into the pipe steel.. done... this flang will never crack.. or rust..
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#38
by
745 turbogreasel
on 28 Nov, 2012 20:43
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clamps leak unless you use the ones VW used to hold the cats on the rest of the exhaust..
u-bolt clamps SUCK..
Leak free in ~4 seconds with the impact, or you are doing it wrong.
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#39
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2012 21:16
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Cat is getting cut out of the system. Pipes are flared on both sides of where I need to go. That is why I though I could weld one, clamp the other. Or take the pipe back to the welder once I had an exact mark for length and orientation. Clamp would be temporary, like a tac weld so the whole thing wouldn't be out of align. Know what I'm saying here? Sure you do, done it lots right? I just don't own a welder or know anyone that does.
Fishing and tree stuff yes, welder? Ahhh No.
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#40
by
theman53
on 29 Nov, 2012 04:48
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What I did with mine when I had to drop it for the shifter relay ball...I would do that while you are have it hanging down if it is anywhere close to needing it...is I got a 6" section or so and had the exhaust shop expand it out so it would slip entirely over the existing pipe. I only took out a piece as thick as a band saw blade. Then I slide it over the one side of pipe all the way, lifted the other pipe up to level, and slid it on and clamped it. Then when I got to a welder I buzzed it together. It didn't leak before but I wanted to be sure. Welding under there sucks.
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#41
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Nov, 2012 11:16
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I have so many wonky things going on with the cat delete that the simple pipe won't work. That is what I thought I could do in the first place. Problem one- the connector from the header is of a slightly different inside and outside diameter than the exhaust pipe at the other end of the cat. So one single pipe turned into a long pipe and an adapter instead. All wobbly where it needs to be solid right?
Prob 2 flange on header/cat pipe has movable flange that would normally pinch on a rolled over part of the pipe and hold the cat in the proper position when bolted to the backside flange that is welded to the exhaust pipe. That is the needed adjustment they built into the system. But not using it means it rattles like crazy and absolutely needs to be removed or tacked in place. But being a diesel engine when would I ever need that? I don't expect to be selling this monster as I want to "use it".
Problem 3. Support of the pipe other than the connection at the header and the hanger that is way back at the muffler location. Right where that comes together is that one hanger to the side of the shifter that uses one of those rubber hanger rings. I can use it to my advantage as the rear flange, welded to the pipe is just about 3/4 of an inch away from the hanger on the body. So welding a stub on the flange will allow me to support it well, I think.
All other routing is good, not sure what this will sound like as I am taking out the resonator from the system and throwing that noise and such out the exhaust. Just have to try it and if no go then insert smaller resonator, Like that stupid cat hollowed out. Oh, can't do that as distance was 4 inches short and exhaust pipe was not in the groove making the turns by the gas tank.