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#120
by
libbydiesel
on 06 Apr, 2013 08:12
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My test vehicle has upgraded injectors. On these pumps, I set the max fuel to 1200°F which, IMO, is a very moderate level of fueling. I intentionally 'err' on the side of under-fueling with the max fuel screw setting. I do that to ensure that someone's engine will not be over-fueled and consequently damaged from excessive combustion temps when they initially install one of my pumps. Installing that pump on an engine with stock injectors will further limit max fuel. Due to differences in my test vehicle, injectors, turbo and max boost, for best performance, someone installing one of my pumps will need to tune the max fuel and consequently the idle once the pump is installed. IMO, all other settings on the pumps I build are tuned optimally and so should not be adjusted. Once someone has an EGT gauge installed, they can adjust the max fuel to their liking/desired risk. I personally opt for max EGTs in the 1200°-1300° range on my own vehicles.
To initially set the timing on my test vehicle I use a diesel pulse adapter with piezo pickup along with a stroboscopic timing light and set the timing to 12° BTDC @ 900 rpms and find that setting to be optimal. I do measure the plunger lift of each pump using the dial gauge after the timing is set using my pulse adapter and timing light in order to be able to give a reasonable range, but again, differences in injectors affect timing and so, giving a specific plunger lift spec that will be optimal with someone else's set of injectors is not possible. 1.20 is a decent starting point for bbob's pump. If someone has installed one of my pumps and has found that EGTs in the 1200-1300° range result in visible smoke, then the next step in tuning should be to advance the timing in very small increments. If the engine gets to a point of significant diesel clatter before clearing the smoke at that max EGT range, then upgraded injectors are indicated for that power setting. If anyone with one of my pumps is able to visit my location, I am happy to optimally dial in their timing and max fuel for their specific engine/injectors/turbo.
If there is anything lacking in mid-range or upper rpm power it may be as simple as adjusting the timing and max fuel or may require an injector or turbo upgrade. The pumps I sell are definitely not the limiting factor to power potential.
I look forward to hearing more updates.
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#121
by
CRSMP5
on 06 Apr, 2013 09:00
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why i said that
also why i say ill give him a few mo to dial it in.. no one will find the sweet spot in a day..
now to teach bbob how to do only 1 thing at a time till set... to do 2 adjustments at 1 time you will not know what 1 did.. say bad thing happens.. egt spike for example.. max fuel and timming played with... which of the 2 did it..
so ill discuss noting all adjustments down.. so if a negative happens he can "turn back" what he did..
ive watched too many people screw up in rc nitro carb tuning/suspention adj as they do not work on 1 aspect at a time.. gotta screw with it all and then tend to get forced to start from scratch..
but yes im waiting to see how it goes.. and i can totally beleive its fuel.. but same token only saw 1k on egt when i did 5th gear pull from 65 to 85.. no soot clouds.. but sadly the tail pipe set up will disperse that.. not far enough away from bumper.. so under car air kills watching that..he needs 3" more tail pipe..
i played with tail pipe lenngth on my b3 wagon.. how to disperse the soot so it did not fill my cargo area opening in soot.. gap around the hatch opening.. i used my wagon as my pit table set up for rc nitro racing.. white car w/soot looks like poo when working out the back of it.. ill need to host one of then pics one day...
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#122
by
bbob203
on 16 Apr, 2013 14:51
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.205 nozzles are in order.
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#123
by
bbob203
on 24 Sep, 2013 11:19
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Bumping this thing back up. Its going to be winter soon so Im thinking about glow plugs. I really want to build a full turn key setup w/ temperature cut off. That being said I have a few questions/ ideas.
Here is the sensor i use for the aux temp guage on my A-pillar. My thinking with this is to T it and run another nail sensor for the glow plug system or Drill and tap one of the glow plug bosses on the coolant flange on the end of the head.
Next question as far as i can tell the glow plug relay occupies the same space that the fuel pump relay used to be. What do i need to do with the wiring in the harness/fuse box to make the glow plug relay work in that spot? Is it even worth using or should i just wire up the glow plug relay independent the fuse box?
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#124
by
srgtlord
on 24 Sep, 2013 12:48
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I took the difficult route and pulled the fuse box apart on my 85 golf and modified the fuel pump relay socket to accept the glowplug relay. You can create a stanalone harness if you wish. In reality this route will be much quicker as I had to source a few connectors that were not present. If you use the TDI glowplug setup you "may" be able to just use the tdi temp sensor in its normal location.
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#125
by
CRSMP5
on 24 Sep, 2013 12:51
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no t... will be a dead end coolent passage with 0 flow... for this.. a mk3 tdi with ac.. bet ya aaz with ac too.. has a top rad hose with a temp sensor spot for the 2 wire kill ac if overheating circuit (white sensor, you need the 2 wire black gauge style 89+but sensors same size)... for what your seeking.. that will work as a glow plug sensor... just not accurate for a gauge as no real flow till thermostat is open.. but glow plugs hot/cold/mid temp.. heck yea.. perfect..
wire glow plug relay under hood...
no temp probe required... will just run max time out.. will shut off 3 or so sec after you hit the key... just like a idi is... yes the glow plugs in stock form glow while/during cranking till abou t3-5 seconds after it runs... even when warm it ignites the glow plugs when cranking and shuts off 3-5 sec after running...
now tdi.. has completly different glow system vs idi... no idea the relay they use.. but it only lasts even dead of winter 5 to 10 sec... that ive seen... and with no glowplugs.. 20f is a few extra revolutions of the engine.. but honestly it still lights faster then a idi with 1 bad one... alot faster.. ive seen some idi that do not..
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#126
by
bbob203
on 24 Sep, 2013 12:59
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I have a glowplug relay from a mk2 i was going to use. and i definitely want the dash light to work. Not going to run it through any kind of pimped setup with a solenoid because heck this thing doesn't need to extra juice just a bit of heat on a cold erie morning.
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#127
by
bbob203
on 24 Sep, 2013 13:23
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Part of me wants to gut the interior rip out all the wiring and redo it all and get rid of all the *** i don't need like the alarm wiring still in there and a host of other things in the big rats nest behind the the kneebar.
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#128
by
bbob203
on 24 Sep, 2013 13:39
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Front bilstein hd struts showed up today too!
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#129
by
CRSMP5
on 24 Sep, 2013 13:42
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to kill alarm, power locks is how it works... all those added wires are very few in reality... just added switch for trunk lock, and hood.. rest of wires run domelights, power locks so on... come look at the b4 harness..
then pear under my b3 back seat..
what you want is a 2.slow b4 w manual windows, mirrors... few b3 out there... but b3 has seat belt crap... for a minimualist harness in the b3... maybe canadian harness for a b3 aaz one... that lacks power would be best...
but wire in the glow plug light.. not that hard.. then wire glow plug relay under hood... the "temp sensor wire" in can operate the light... and i know we kept a extra few wire on the engine harness for this thought...
idi glow plug relay on tdi i do not suggest though.. they work too much on a idi when a tdi does not need... like when cranking... you need to look into what tdi use... i know it somehow deals with the comp.... check ngine light issues with them..
keep that receipt... they suck arss on warentee...
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#130
by
theman53
on 24 Sep, 2013 14:16
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Bumping this thing back up. Its going to be winter soon so Im thinking about glow plugs. I really want to build a full turn key setup w/ temperature cut off. That being said I have a few questions/ ideas.
Here is the sensor i use for the aux temp guage on my A-pillar. My thinking with this is to T it and run another nail sensor for the glow plug system or Drill and tap one of the glow plug bosses on the coolant flange on the end of the head.
Next question as far as i can tell the glow plug relay occupies the same space that the fuel pump relay used to be. What do i need to do with the wiring in the harness/fuse box to make the glow plug relay work in that spot? Is it even worth using or should i just wire up the glow plug relay independent the fuse box?
Unless you are really partial to that connector couldn't you cut it off and add a new one with an extra wire coming off of it to give signal to your glow plugs?
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#131
by
bbob203
on 24 Sep, 2013 17:16
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Bumping this thing back up. Its going to be winter soon so Im thinking about glow plugs. I really want to build a full turn key setup w/ temperature cut off. That being said I have a few questions/ ideas.
Here is the sensor i use for the aux temp guage on my A-pillar. My thinking with this is to T it and run another nail sensor for the glow plug system or Drill and tap one of the glow plug bosses on the coolant flange on the end of the head.
Next question as far as i can tell the glow plug relay occupies the same space that the fuel pump relay used to be. What do i need to do with the wiring in the harness/fuse box to make the glow plug relay work in that spot? Is it even worth using or should i just wire up the glow plug relay independent the fuse box?
Unless you are really partial to that connector couldn't you cut it off and add a new one with an extra wire coming off of it to give signal to your glow plugs?
I thought of that just wasn't sure if it would mess up the guage signal.
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#132
by
8v-of-fury
on 24 Sep, 2013 17:18
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seeing as how it is a resistance reading.. you may be right??
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#133
by
theman53
on 24 Sep, 2013 17:32
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Yeah have to ask CRSMP5 as he want to YSU for electrical edumacation. I honestly don't know but would give it a shot and see.
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#134
by
CRSMP5
on 24 Sep, 2013 18:01
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back in 93 i learned that no work by trial... why we went thru tigging nut to pipe for gauge as i explained then.... else llook up current divider... that sensor would be the joinning place... why engineers have proved it no work..
