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are 1.6td exhaust studs same size as turbo?
by
damac
on 19 Oct, 2012 20:24
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im bringing back to life an unknown engine. turbo block with a couple vw reconditioned stickers.
anyway i got one stud broken off in each area i have to dig out and i noticed an exhaust stud could be hand threaded a few times on turbo. tried searching but i cant find anything.
this poor engine. seems up to spec compression wise and was running ok but loud. one turbo bolt and 2 exhaust studs is all i found!
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#1
by
theman53
on 19 Oct, 2012 20:47
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I do not understand the question. They are the same studs for all watercooled IIRC.
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#2
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 20 Oct, 2012 11:11
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i dont understand the question either...
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#3
by
bajacalal
on 20 Oct, 2012 21:17
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I believe he's asking if the exhaust manifold studs (in the cylinder head) are the same size as the turbo-to-downpipe studs on his (i'm assuming t3) turbo, in which case, I believe they are the same thread pitch but the length is different.
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#4
by
damac
on 20 Oct, 2012 23:34
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Sorry I suck and was on my phone on the road. I meant turbo exhaust side studs that the downpipe connects to and cylinder head exhaust manifold studs.
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#5
by
CRSMP5
on 22 Oct, 2012 18:33
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yep 8x1.25 is the thread pitch.. but tooooo long... they much shorter
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#6
by
burn_your_money
on 22 Oct, 2012 19:00
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What kind of studs would be best? Are they treated differently than your standard stud? What grade would we be looking at? I've got a turbo with a few broken studs I want to replace.
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#7
by
damac
on 23 Oct, 2012 13:27
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Damn my situation has turned into a nightmare. I only have a few years experience with these cars and every used head I have come across had the broken stud atleast. And I have encountered a couple on the turbos.
I can't drill into either one with my easy out type kit(not the spiral kind). I'm used to doing the center punch thing with reverse drill bit and being able to use the special bit to slowly back things out after soaking things and using heat.
All parts look stock, I think the studs weren't installed right due to so many broken ones. I wonder if this could directly be related to the incomplete turbo motor in the rabbit shell? Just a support bracket missing to hold manifold to downpipe. All the bolts were there from turbo through manifold though.
Only thing I have used that takes away from these studs is a nasty dremel bit but thats not going to get me anywhere, making a notch for a screwdriver just resulted in no budging.
I got a harbor freight wire flux welder but I don't think this will work like I see on some youtube videos. I tried it and everything snaps off where the initial weld is.
Any clue what would happen if I bring this to a machine shop? Can they drill them out and tap into the head and helicoil so I can still use original stud? Damn.
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Oct, 2012 13:34
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Damn my situation has turned into a nightmare. I only have a few years experience with these cars and every used head I have come across had the broken stud atleast. And I have encountered a couple on the turbos.
I can't drill into either one with my easy out type kit(not the spiral kind). I'm used to doing the center punch thing with reverse drill bit and being able to use the special bit to slowly back things out after soaking things and using heat.
All parts look stock, I think the studs weren't installed right due to so many broken ones. I wonder if this could directly be related to the incomplete turbo motor in the rabbit shell? Just a support bracket missing to hold manifold to downpipe. All the bolts were there from turbo through manifold though.
Only thing I have used that takes away from these studs is a nasty dremel bit but thats not going to get me anywhere, making a notch for a screwdriver just resulted in no budging.
I got a harbor freight wire flux welder but I don't think this will work like I see on some youtube videos. I tried it and everything snaps off where the initial weld is.
Any clue what would happen if I bring this to a machine shop? Can they drill them out and tap into the head and helicoil so I can still use original stud? Damn.
first off, ive only seen one broken exhaust stud on a VW in my ENTIRE LIFE..
second off, usually the stud twists out of the head, rather than breaking..
idk how the hell you would break an exhaust stud, or a turbo stud..
second, an arc welder works best to extract broken bolts, but it works best when the stud is sticking up some, and not recessed into the boss..
a good machine shop should be able to extract the broken stud, and leave you with the stock threaded hole, with no heli-coil..
i would stay away from heli coils anywhere on the exhaust system, i have not had good luck with them..
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#9
by
CRSMP5
on 23 Oct, 2012 13:42
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ive seen lots of broken ones... drill/tap...
in 85ish audi 5k turbo came out with new studs, washers, nuts for turbo applications... this cross bred its way into td apps.. then onto the na stuff in the 90s...
the washer is the odd 1/4"ish thick style.. flanged lock nut.. and the actual stud is a better grade..
on any with broken head studs straight edge the manifold.. they will warp and cause broken studs.. if not flat get it decked...
machine shop job = drilling/extracting broken bolts/studs...
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#10
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Oct, 2012 14:35
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When you are welding and it's breaking off clean where the stud snapped then you aren't getting hot enough, or the stud is too dirty. I use a 120v Lincoln welder and it works for me but sometimes takes a few nuts to get it free. Set your welder as hot as it's go and try again.
I've seen lots of broken studs, it's a fact of life with salt and winter. ROR just doesn't understand.... lucky guy.
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#11
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Oct, 2012 16:17
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When you are welding and it's breaking off clean where the stud snapped then you aren't getting hot enough, or the stud is too dirty. I use a 120v Lincoln welder and it works for me but sometimes takes a few nuts to get it free. Set your welder as hot as it's go and try again.
I've seen lots of broken studs, it's a fact of life with salt and winter. ROR just doesn't understand.... lucky guy.
no salt on the west coast <3
and you need to set your welder HOT so it digs into the stud, then it will twist out.. set it way hotter than you think you need..
unless you have one of those cheapo HF welders without a heat adjustment setting, just wire speed adjustment, then your kinda screwed..
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#12
by
bajacalal
on 24 Oct, 2012 18:50
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If you don't want to use a heli-coil, I would suggest one of the studs which has a larger thread on one side than the other. You drill and tap to the next largest size, the same size as on the big end of the stud, but the other end is small so you don't have to drill the manifold/flange larger.
I might be able to send you one if you need.
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#13
by
damac
on 24 Oct, 2012 23:18
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I came to my senses and loaded the stuff up on front seat of the jetta and popped in on some local auto machine shops since I assumed that was what I needed.
After talking to these people I had no confidence in them and some guy told me of a place that lots of these shop outsource work to and also raise the cost of the job. I never thought of that so I went to them and we were on the same page in minutes. They do work for all sorts of shops he told me, and industrial type stuff as well. So I guess there is almost another world when it comes to machining, etc. or else have an experienced mechanic dealing with engines that knows when to outsource.
So I think I got my shop referral for this area which is good. Should cost $150 or less depending on work but I have to wait a week or two. And he will check manifold for free when I come back.
I wasn't quite sure the approach they were taking as they talked about all sorts of stuff. Now that its in there hands does it make sense that they just drill it out and weld new material in there and retap?
I should say that turbo might be saveable because it was broken flush and nobody butchered it up, but the heades hole has been rounded out and nicked all over the place. A new stud starts like 1/4 way in the hole.
Damned old owners. And its wierd I think every engine I have come across now has loose studs and atleast one broken. I get the kind where just the last bit, maybe up to the nut is broken off leaving something behind. Only a few broken flush and I was able to easily get those out with a home extractor kit.
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#14
by
CRSMP5
on 25 Oct, 2012 00:25
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well just dont be like a boss i had years ago.. drillin broken stud in car... go too deep and it will pee green...