After a reman cyl head and new rings for my 1.6na, and intermediate headaches described here in other threads, I put the original 11 mm head bolts back, torqued 'em up in 3 stages per the Bentley, and fired up the engine to warm it up for the first re-torque. When I did, I got a pop and no more torque out of one of the bolts. Backed it out, bolt is fine so threads probably sheared off in the block. I had put a dab of Permatex anti-seize compound on each bolt, and am now concerned that even using the Bentley numbers (50,70,90 Nm) I effectively over-torqued the block threads due to the lower friction from the anti-seize(?).
I know the 11's are known to be weak, and I've likely abused mine. Am wondering if I can save the block by time-serting the threads and using ARP's or Raceware's studs along with whatever lube they supply or recommend. Opinions? Am I wasting my time? If this were a horse I'd be calling the glue factory...
Opinions? Mine is that you're wasting your time.
im with libby on this..
the 11mm block is the problem..
even with $500 worth of timeserts, it wont be any better
it will be a 11mm block with $500 worth of time serts, and the same cracks..
With all the work you've done to the engine I'd put in a timesert or something and use studs. Don't retorque after warming the engine up or running it for 1000kms, it's not necessary in my experience.
Unless you can get a cheap 12mm block that is...
Ouch!
I've calmed down from this latest frustration, but forget the 12 mm block; if I have to replace the block, its either going to be with a complete engine or an eBay ad for a roller. The block is not cracked, just missing threads (which came out wrapped around the otherwise pristine bolt).
I already have a time-sert kit ($100, not $500:
https://www.belmetric.com/ts1115-m11x15-kit-p-1532.html?cPath=217_218_238 ), so I'll probably roll the dice with another $100 or so for studs.
Is ur vin below or equal to 176338? If so it's an 11 mm block provided it's the orig engine.