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#15
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 Sep, 2012 20:48
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The porting looks good around the valve seat there, probably the most crucial spot is just to match the port to the seat and smooth the rest out. U need a bigger turbo to really make it worth the port work ;^p. porting is always beneficial tho
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#16
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Sep, 2012 23:42
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The porting looks good around the valve seat there, probably the most crucial spot is just to match the port to the seat and smooth the rest out. U need a bigger turbo to really make it worth the port work ;^p. porting is always beneficial tho
I don't know about "matching" so much. I just took out the huge step where the exhaust had to bend around sharply. The photo is two ports done (on the right) and two stock ports (on the left). The K14 is a decent turbo and Giles said that with his pump work and 15 lbs, I could get an easy 100 to 120 HP - that's enough for my van as I am also looking for dependability and a long lasting build, The porting should help lower EGT's as well I believe.
A VNT would be ideal but this is cleaning out my bank account quickly as it is - one of the reasons this build is taking so long.
Any leads on a replacement screw for the turbo? I think I'll have to get four socket head cap screws and replace them. It was weird - the head just popped off - would have been a disaster had it done that running.
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#17
by
theman53
on 24 Sep, 2012 05:14
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If you are not in a hurry I probably have one at work I could get you later this week. I wouldn't go with a SHCS as the hey key wrench maybe always in the way to remove and if you would need to try to clock it in the car it maybe a total pain. The hex head you should always be able to get an open end wrench on fairly easily.
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#18
by
Gizmoman
on 24 Sep, 2012 07:24
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. . .the hex head you should always be able to get an open end wrench on fairly easily.
Thanks Theman, not sure a hex head will work as the bolt holes are c'bored and space is very tight. Just to be clear, this is the round backing plate to the intake side of the snail shell - close behind the intake scroll. There's no clocking it as it bolts directly to the center section.
? Wish I could figure how you guys post such nice huge photos. Every time I try, I get a file too large message?
"Hurry" left a long time ago - I'm going for right. Geeze, I'm still hunting for .02 over pistons! I found some nice KS bits on e-bay Germany but none of them ship to the US (have no idea why). I have a friend in the UK and may ask him to handle it but what a PITA.
Don't know where to find these metric torx head screws with integral washer, so the SHCS is the next best choice - probably Mc Master (4mm washers as well). As easy as it was to pop the head off - I really don't feel good about these anyway.
If one popped off with it on boost, the thing would get pretty screwed up.
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#19
by
theman53
on 24 Sep, 2012 07:35
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I guess I would need that pic as I don't know which one you are talking about.
If you ask the ebay germany seller to ship he probably will. He probaby just wants paid and not have to worry about paying for shipping on top of it.
As far as pics too large, you could resize *which I don't do, but Burn your money can/knows how* Or do what most of us do and upload it to another photo hosting site like photobucket or similar. Then you can use the insert image in the reply to thread, or use the code. The code *but without spaces* is [ i m g ] [ / i m g ] Go to properties or use the url option from most photo sites and copy it. Paste it in between the middle brackets ] [ then the pic will upload. I think the FAQ has this covered too.
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#20
by
Gizmoman
on 24 Sep, 2012 17:57
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#21
by
theman53
on 24 Sep, 2012 18:20
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I would replace all of those with the 12.9 socket heads.
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#22
by
TylerDurden
on 24 Sep, 2012 18:21
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To embed the image:
When composing a message, paste the URL for the external image in the message textarea, highlight it and click the IMG button
above the textarea.
The code in the texarea should look somewhat like this:
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yepWnNvtdos/UGEAoUVimcI/AAAAAAAABVU/uhneQCVi-OY/s512/Broken%252520Bolt%2525202.JPG[/img]The post will look like this:
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#23
by
Gizmoman
on 24 Sep, 2012 18:53
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Wow - hands on tutorial! I'll save it so I can reference it next time - Thanks!
Yeah, SHCS's nice and tough at that. It was so odd to have the bolt head just pop off like that - as you can see, there's no meat left - actually looks like one of the tiny bushings on the turbo shaft.
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#24
by
Gizmoman
on 02 Oct, 2012 20:13
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Ok, I have too much idle time on my hands (building my funds back up to continue my build) and have been doing some reading about porting. I've already done mine but ran across a few statements on the web similar to this. . .
"When porting a diesel head, remember that absolute flow is secondary to air turbulence and mixture swirl. A head that flows like the Lincoln Tunnel but doesn't promote swirl and good fuel mixture will result in black smoke and a loss of power." This article was referring to diesels, not gassers - just to be clear.
That leaves me wondering, does an IDI need "swirl" to make the most power out of the fuel? I'm thinking not because the fuel isn't in the air. Like I said, I'm done porting and other than possibly polishing the fresh metal some, I don't plan on removing any more aluminum. I just hope I didn't mess something up.
To update my last post, I have four new bolts and the turbo is tidy now.
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#25
by
rabbid79
on 02 Oct, 2012 21:51
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I think the swirl of the intake air which is what they're referring to is important in a direct injected engine (which is why the TDI has a special intake port shape which makes the incoming air swirl). I don't think swirling intake air would make any difference on an indirect-injected engine since all of that intake air is forced into the "swirl" chamber on the compression stroke. There's already plenty of swirling going on in that tiny chamber.
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#26
by
Gizmoman
on 03 Oct, 2012 17:09
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Thanks for the feedback. That helps explain it.
