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#15
by
srgtlord
on 04 Sep, 2012 17:50
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I would change the oil and drive the sucker if it still runs.
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#16
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Sep, 2012 19:15
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diesel only.. has adapter for injector on idi... glowplug on tdi... cannot use gasser one...
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#17
by
Rising
on 04 Sep, 2012 19:54
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diesel only.. has adapter for injector on idi... glowplug on tdi... cannot use gasser one...
Ahh gotcha. Looks like ill be making a trip for one tomorrow. Might pick some glow plugs up while I'm out. Any suggestions or are they all pretty much the same ?
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#18
by
theman53
on 04 Sep, 2012 19:57
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Bousch Duratherms only. Do not use autolite, NGK, or others. You will do the job 10x as much and some have been known to break off under normal operation and go into the engine.
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#19
by
745 turbogreasel
on 04 Sep, 2012 20:22
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I think you cold pull the pan and look up into the bores. if you see aluminum from the pistons transfered to the cyl walls, it will be a pretty major rebuild.
If not, and the cooling system passes a pressure test, you might just need some glow plugs.
If you unplug the glow relay, , and run a jumper cable from battery + to the glow bus bar, there should be a significant spark as you make contact, if not, all your glows are dead.
-this isn't a definitive test, they can draw current, but still not work, though in my experience 90% of the time, they draw no power if dead.
Also, add me to the 'smoked a a motor at low gauge indicated temps' club.
Alt/h20 belt was slipping, the water just wasn't moving. I seized at a tick above half.
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#20
by
burn_your_money
on 04 Sep, 2012 20:30
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Time it properly, test and replace the glowplugs and just drive it. If it runs and gets good mileage, thank God and keep on trucking. If not, then think about rebuilding it.
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#21
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Sep, 2012 20:49
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I am in the corner with the compression tester in place of the injectors and throw on new GP's. That will tell you where the trouble lies with all cylinders, both from the overheat and potential damage from the over heat. You say you did a HG. Did you have enough time and miles on it to reset the head bolts to spec after 1000 miles? I just redid them on my head replacement and was surprised at how much they went down after driving it some.
I like the forgiveness motto you have. Perhaps that will be given back to you someday or you may find there is little wrong with what you have and getting all nasty on a friend would have been a bit much if it really only needs GP's and some tuning. You do need to find the basic problem that started all this. That is why I would go for the compression test.
My 2 copper pieces.
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#22
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 05 Sep, 2012 20:10
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just keep driving it. its already damaged.
if it gets better, cool..
if it starts getting harder and harder to start, then its screwed.
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#23
by
Rising
on 07 Sep, 2012 06:25
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Okay thanks for all the suggestions!
I went to my local box auto parts store and they didn't have any compression testers for diesel. Highest gauge went to 300 haha. Didn't have any Bosch glow plugs either. Next best thing was Beck/arnly at 30$ a plug. Went online and found Bosch duratherms for 8.00 a plug.
I have some bad news though. Well for one thing the car only starts when pull started and I can't get it to start without dragging it. So it isn't like I can just keep driving it. On another note I didn't notice until I had the hood up while cranking that it is spraying water out of the radiator cap while cranking. So I'm guessing there must be a pretty significant amount of compression going into the coolant system. So I cancelled my order for the duratherms.
Yes I did recently do the headgasket. And I drove about 1500 miles and then did the retorque. Then my friend drove it a couple thousand more. I think I'm gonna pull the engine apart next week.. try to see where the compression is leaking. Probably a cracked block... so I'm in the market for a new engine or a Honda wwhichever is cheaper..
Anybody got an extra engine
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Sep, 2012 08:23
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Sadly not near Virginia..
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#25
by
Rising
on 07 Sep, 2012 14:58
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Sadly not near Virginia..
Hows Canada this time of year? Haha. Seems to be the only place that has a decent supply of idi diesels
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#26
by
745 turbogreasel
on 07 Sep, 2012 15:14
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On another note I didn't notice until I had the hood up while cranking that it is spraying water out of the radiator cap while cranking. So I'm guessing there must be a pretty significant amount of compression going into the coolant system.
Nah man, thats just a little boost leak
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#27
by
Rising
on 07 Sep, 2012 16:00
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On another note I didn't notice until I had the hood up while cranking that it is spraying water out of the radiator cap while cranking. So I'm guessing there must be a pretty significant amount of compression going into the coolant system.
Nah man, thats just a little boost leak
Hahaha. If only I had boost and that could be even remotely true!!
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#28
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Sep, 2012 22:10
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Sadly not near Virginia..
Hows Canada this time of year? Haha. Seems to be the only place that has a decent supply of idi diesels
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Limp it up here.. We'll do a m-tdi i a weekend
. So many idi up here!!
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#29
by
Rising
on 10 Sep, 2012 19:02
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Oh believe me if it was possible to keep the coolant in it long enough to do some limping i'd be considering it
I'm going to try to do some more investigation this week. Possibly pulling the head tomorrow to check the gasket and look for some cracks/warping that could be causing the loss in compression.
I had a couple ideas depending on what I find:
1. I read somewhere that if there is a crack in the block it may be repairable via this stuff called marine-tex i believe. It's sort of an epoxy/jbweld type material with some metal shavings or something of the like mixed in. A lot of people with boats and ships have used it with some good results. I'm not sure if this is something that is possible. But is there anything else that might save a cracked block? My dad keeps trying to convince me to pour a can of bar's leak in there to see if that would fix it up, but I don't think the water will even stay in it long enough to pour something in once i start the car again. Even a temporary fix would help me until I can find work again and find some more money to replace/rebuild the engine.
2. There is an 82 jetta on the vortex for sale right now that was used on a farm and is pretty beat up suspension/body wise but allegedly has a good running motor. The guy wants around $475 for it and he's pretty near by. Do you guys think it would be worth looking into buying it and parting out some of the other extra's? 475 for a n/a diesel seems pretty high. But if i could sell some parts or get some money for the shell it might be worth it?
3. The last idea that comes to mind is the one I'm most afraid of but might make the most sense. There are several running rabbits in one piece painted one and with nicer interiors than mine that can be had for under $2000. My car is far more than totaled. The front end which already was home repaired by me is now basically ruined again, and the engine is most likely gone. As much as I hate to admit defeat and lose all the money i spent working on this rabbit, do you think I could get any money for it as a whole project or by parting it out? And then just wait and jump on a fully functional rabbit?
These are just my thoughts right now. I'll play with her some more tomorrow and let you guys know if I find anything that would help point me in a good direction..