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Cam plate and delivery upgrade
by
Jarrus
on 25 Jul, 2012 12:53
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Hi,
Ive got a Peugeot 306 which ive put a 2.1 XUD11 engine in it (sorry if ive posted in the wrong place) Its an IDI engine with 3 valves per cylinder,
Running a Bosch VE with an 11mm head and gov mod,
Plans next are to go back to the 9mm head to keep the smoke under control and im going to grind the advance piston for some more advance past 4k rpms (max 5k)
Would I gain anything by changing the cam plate for a higher lift one? But I guess DI ones arent any good for an IDI engine? And is it worth going for larger delivery valves?
Cheers
Brett
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#1
by
Jarrus
on 25 Jul, 2012 15:38
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Also thought about getting an m and h fuel pin to hopefully get a bigger fuel range
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#2
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Jul, 2012 22:10
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Hi,
Ive got a Peugeot 306 which ive put a 2.1 XUD11 engine in it (sorry if ive posted in the wrong place) Its an IDI engine with 3 valves per cylinder,
Running a Bosch VE with an 11mm head and gov mod,
Plans next are to go back to the 9mm head to keep the smoke under control and im going to grind the advance piston for some more advance past 4k rpms (max 5k)
Would I gain anything by changing the cam plate for a higher lift one? But I guess DI ones arent any good for an IDI engine? And is it worth going for larger delivery valves?
Cheers
Brett
the cam plate MIGHT be an upgrade, but its going to make timing it a bit harder.. the 4mm (DI) camplate just gives you x amount of fuel, in a shorter time than the 2.3mm (IDI) camplate will do.. also, the 4mm cam plate takes some of your MAX RPM away as well.. but then again, you only want 5000 max anyways, and thats pushing it with a 11mm pump.
AAZ came with a 4mm cam plate, and its an IDI engine.. but it also had dual brake pressures on the injectors..
i see no gain to be had from delivery valves..
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#3
by
Jarrus
on 28 Jul, 2012 14:22
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Ok cheers mate,
I have another question then, using an 11 mm head screw up the pump timing, How do I recibrate it? My engine is knocking like buggery
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#4
by
Harky
on 29 Jul, 2012 08:14
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Using the large head shouldn't have effected your timing, unless you used the 11mm fuel pressure regulator?
Also with respect to the dv's, a couple of people, con/dts67 in particular, have experimented with different valves and found big gains to be had.
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#5
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jul, 2012 08:23
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The plunger/head size affects timing significantly even without a regulator change.
I've also experimented with delivery valves and have not found any gains to be had.
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#6
by
Jarrus
on 29 Jul, 2012 09:19
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Yeah regulator is standard, what would you suggest? More or less pressure? Id reckon less by the sound of it...
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#7
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jul, 2012 12:25
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Go for a decent idle spec first because at idle the dynamic advance will not be in effect. If it's very rattley at idle, then the static timing needs to be retarded. Once a decent idle timing is achieved, then you can adjust the pressure to suit whether you need more or less advance at speed.
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Jul, 2012 10:45
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Using the large head shouldn't have effected your timing, unless you used the 11mm fuel pressure regulator?
Also with respect to the dv's, a couple of people, con/dts67 in particular, have experimented with different valves and found (NO?) big gains to be had.
WERE big gains to be had?
or they found no gains from delivery valves?
i dont see how you can change power levels just by changing a check valve? delivery valves are just one way valves to keep residual pressure in the injection lines when there is no injection event..
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#9
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Jul, 2012 11:55
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I can see how delivery valves shimmed closer to injector breaking pressure would result in more potential fuel delivery because a smaller initial part of the plunger stroke would be required to pass injector break pressure and so more of the plunger stroke would be available for pushing fuel into the cylinders. I can also see how lower injector break pressure could result in more power in a similar way. I will say that I have swapped delivery valves and had the swap result in a noticeable change in fueling so that I had to adjust the max fuel screw significantly to achieve the same fueling curve. All that said, if I was maxing out a pumps potential, I would turn to other mods before messing with the delivery valves.
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#10
by
Jarrus
on 04 Aug, 2012 13:07
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Ok lads cheers for the replies,
Ive also noticed something, after 4k the power starts to drop off... Would could be causing this? I got the govenor shimmed up and have rotated the lda pin ramp to the most aggressive setting
I should point out as well this car isnt my daily driver
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#11
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Aug, 2012 13:15
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Ok lads cheers for the replies,
Ive also noticed something, after 4k the power starts to drop off... Would could be causing this? I got the govenor shimmed up and have rotated the lda pin ramp to the most aggressive setting
I should point out as well this car isnt my daily driver
id your pump getting as much fuel as it needs? made sure you dont have a feed line restriction, or a partially clogged fuel filter?
how much did you shim your governor?
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#12
by
Jarrus
on 04 Aug, 2012 14:31
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Recently replaced my fuel filter,
Shimmed the govnor about 5mm, think it needs to be solid?
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#13
by
Jarrus
on 04 Aug, 2012 14:33
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Would a lift pump help?
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#14
by
8v-of-fury
on 04 Aug, 2012 17:56
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Recently replaced my fuel filter,
Shimmed the govnor about 5mm, think it needs to be solid?
Solid causes this
. Ask me how I know.
Would a lift pump help?
Always a good idea, even on a fresh pump. If you ever run out of fuel, or have any issues regarding loss of prime.. you'll thank yourself largely.
Keep it around 4-7psi, and you'll be perfect. I personally run a 5psi puller/pusher so to speak lol. Pulls from the tank and through the filter to keep the electric pump safe and then pushes to the pump.