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#15
by
8v-of-fury
on 11 Mar, 2012 19:30
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Not sure that it really makes much difference where I am it is pretty warm by comparison to some of these guys freezing arse up north.
It was 38-40F out the other day, I got the shorts out.. Got some sun, beautiful
LOL.
The stock mk2 starters are gear reduction themselves, has anyone proven a TDI starter has anything on the mk2 diesel starters?
Fwiw, I have an 020 on my TDI motor (AHU) right now. So that means I am still using the original 91 diesel starter I had from two motors ago, the 1.7 EN gasoline. Anyway, the mk2 diesel starter spins the TDI just as fast as the TDI starter ever did, it does not have a problem spinning this motor.
In conclusion, you do not need a TDI starter for your diesel. The skinny mk2 diesel starter will workout just fine for you, plus its probably cheaper to source.
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#16
by
fatmobile
on 11 Mar, 2012 21:15
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A slow starter is the common cause of the bad warms starts.
The engine is looser when it's cold.
Might not be the starter.
Crank it for awhile then feel the battery cable connections, at the starter solenoid and grounds especially.
Hot/warm means a bad connection.
It the battery cable is getting warm at the solenoid I might have a cheap solution for you.
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#17
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 11 Mar, 2012 23:32
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A fresh starter bushing in the bellhousing makes a starter real happy almost everytime too. If you happen to plan on pulling the starter anytime soon - have a new bushing on hand and ready.
vincewaldon.com has a DIY on them.
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#18
by
theman53
on 12 Mar, 2012 05:52
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I also had a deal where I showed how to make the bushing a self lubricating one. Cold grease makes it real hard sometimes to put the starter in. I think it was in the Upgrades section.
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#19
by
Krisverde
on 14 Mar, 2012 03:47
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A slow starter is the common cause of the bad warms starts.
The engine is looser when it's cold.
Might not be the starter.
Crank it for awhile then feel the battery cable connections, at the starter solenoid and grounds especially.
Hot/warm means a bad connection.
It the battery cable is getting warm at the solenoid I might have a cheap solution for you.
I cranked and the ground cable from the battery was getting warm.
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#20
by
ORCoaster
on 14 Mar, 2012 15:10
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Warm = load which is to be expected but just how warm and for how long did you crank it? Might be time to get inside this beast and do some cleaning and refurb. It shouldn't warm unless you really are working it long and hard.
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#21
by
fatmobile
on 14 Mar, 2012 21:55
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Warm isn't normal.
Which end got the warmest?
Clean the connection.
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#22
by
745 turbogreasel
on 15 Mar, 2012 01:56
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Welcome to the other side
Check the crimp too.
I see a fair amount of hard warm start issues related to pump wear and fuel system sealing, though you can mask the issue by manually cycling the glow.
It is possible to have suction only leaks.
I agree the warm crank also sounds pretty slow. My caddy was like that till I took the starter apart and cleaned it, might be worth a look.
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#23
by
Krisverde
on 15 Mar, 2012 20:38
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haha thanks. Yea ill look out for leaks. I did replace all the return lines in between the injectors. Haven't seen any other fuel leaks.
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#24
by
theman53
on 16 Mar, 2012 04:34
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If you do change the cables and connectors, it never hurts to go bigger. I run 1/0 cable in my car and haven't had a starting issue ever. New bushing in the trans with my self lubricating twist to it, and the 250,000 mile old or more starter starts it faster than my newer TDI, even in the cold.
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#25
by
Krisverde
on 17 Mar, 2012 15:29
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Alright I have found a leak. Its at the bottom of the IP and its dripping down the bracket that holds the alternator and ac compressor. Also I will be changing out the ground at least since the one that's on there is crappy looking.
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