Yeah, this is the small wire that engages the start solenoid. Test light shows no power when key is turned to start. Starter works, when you use a jump across to the start solenoid terminal to engage it. So does anybody know the current flow from the key to this point? Fuses are good, there is a relay in the fuel pump position on the panel that clicks, replaced it, didn't make any difference.
Thanks
Sounds like a classic "bad ignition switch" symptom.
Not the key tumbler , but the actual plastic contact switch.
About $5-6 from AutohausAZ
Maybe 10-12 from a local parts store.
You can unplug the connector off the switch at the steering column-
then "hot wire" it by jumpering the correct terminals on the connector.
Hot to run terminal, and a hot to start terminal.
Or, just grab a new switch - plug it into the connector (uninstalled, just hanging loose under dash) - turn its slot with a screwdriver - and you should be cranking. If not - return it as unused.
That's a good thought, switch does have a lot of miles.
Yeah, pretty sure it's plastic contact switch. What I did for now was clean with DeoxIT contact cleaner. Great stuff. I would have to take the steering wheel and half the steering column out to get to the little phillips screw that holds in the contact switch to replace it. So for now it's cleaned and I zip-tied the connector to the column so it won't wiggle. So far so good!
Cheers,
-JB
Once you actually see the switch, you will realize why they go out so often. It has to be the cheapest part on the whole car.
Let me know if you can't find one, I think I have a couple.
Push button start FTW. lol
It's really easy to take the steering wheel off. It's like a 1 hour job. Under the horn is a nut and it just pops off, there's no press-fit like on Chevys and stuff... though the later VWs (like with airbags) are a little more complicated and they have a retainer collar that has to come off with a gear puller.