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#15
by
Toby
on 15 Nov, 2011 18:20
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I suspect that he was striking the sprocket perpendicular to the center line of the cam. I suspect you would crush the gear long before you broke the cam nose doing it the right way. (Parallel to the cam center line.)
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#16
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Nov, 2011 22:11
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No soaking with PB blaster, no blasting with blow torch, no wonder it broke. I can't imagine it being on there like that. And I have seen some really rusted bolts in my time. Worst was my 69 Triumph wishbones 6 inches of solid metal frozen in place. Rode like a brick.
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#17
by
steevz
on 16 Nov, 2011 16:46
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I struck the back of the pulley, parallel to the camshaft. Maybe hit the edge of pulley on the side of the gear, and it just snapped.
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#18
by
Toby
on 17 Nov, 2011 15:08
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How many times did you hit it? With how big a sledge hammer?
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#19
by
steevz
on 17 Nov, 2011 15:50
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Like a 12oz hammer. A couple.
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#20
by
rabbitman
on 17 Nov, 2011 15:56
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I broke a cam a while back doing the same thing. Part of my mistake was in using one of those heavy orange hard rubber dead blows.
I loosened the bolt (so don't tell me I forgot it) only enough that it wasn't against the pulley, but way less than 1/2 turn out. And then I proceded to beat on it way too hard. After the nose broke off I couldn't undo the bolt with fingers so used a wrench (holding the pulley with my hand so it wasn't 33ft-lbs and then I used a drift and METAL hammer knocked the stub out of the pulley, it was still pretty tight.
My theory is that all my beatings and turning the pulley so as to beat on another spot must have vibrated the bolt and made it turn back in. I'd used the rubber hammer before and it took tons of hitting but this time I'd hit it way more before it gave.
Now I use a metal hammer and give it a sharp (not hard!!!!) whack or two and it pops right off.
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#21
by
steevz
on 20 Nov, 2011 03:34
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Yeah, my whack wasn't sharp enough. The bolt was loose but I needed to put the sprocket in the vice and stick chisel in there and it took a good whack to get it out.
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#22
by
Toby
on 20 Nov, 2011 17:23
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It would be MUCH better to remove the sprocket with the cam still in the head. Putting the sprocket in a vise is asking for trouble. It would be much better to lay the sprocket across the open vise jaws with the cam pointing down, but it is still a poor choice. It does not take much to separate them if you do it correctly.
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 20 Nov, 2011 17:32
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It would be MUCH better to remove the sprocket with the cam still in the head. Putting the sprocket in a vise is asking for trouble. It would be much better to lay the sprocket across the open vise jaws with the cam pointing down, but it is still a poor choice. It does not take much to separate them if you do it correctly.
yea, if i had it out, and in one piece, i would lay the sprocket across the vice, then give the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. not hard, just sharp.
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 20 Nov, 2011 21:19
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Isn't he talking about putting the pulley in the vice after it broke off? That is what I was reading. Trying to get the piece that was still in there out.
I think I would put the pulley on the visejaws and rap out the stub that was broken off. I wouldn't crimp the pulley at all. Supporting it from the back with the jaws just a wee bit bigger than the hole and watch to be sure it doesn't walk over the jaw face.
One rap and look, then reset and rap again.
But he already has it out.
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#25
by
rabbitman
on 21 Nov, 2011 22:21
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Isn't he talking about putting the pulley in the vice after it broke off? That is what I was reading. Trying to get the piece that was still in there out.
Yup