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#30
by
jaysen71581
on 22 Jun, 2011 20:38
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Nope no crossovers, the 3.5's sound amazing though, lots of treble,
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#31
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Jun, 2011 20:45
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Still there is no need for 6x9's with subs. They put out lousy mids, and even worse lows
. I would replace them with some 6" or 6.5" rounds, and run some crossovers to only give them mids, and the fronts only highs. Let each speaker do what its intended job is.
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#32
by
jaysen71581
on 23 Jun, 2011 07:08
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6x9s are already purchased lol...
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#33
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Jun, 2011 10:03
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
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#34
by
monomer
on 23 Nov, 2011 20:00
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
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#35
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 24 Nov, 2011 08:42
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
most stereos worth their beans will have cross overs built into them.. my kenwood has a 3 way built in.. you can set the fronts, rears, and sub all to different frequencies..
i have my sub set to 80hz
my fronts set at 210hz
and my rears are set to 150hz
yes, im aware that there is nothing between 80-150hz, but it still sounds good. clear even. i still need more power to the satelite speakers tho..
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#36
by
monomer
on 24 Nov, 2011 12:49
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
most stereos worth their beans will have cross overs built into them.. my kenwood has a 3 way built in.. you can set the fronts, rears, and sub all to different frequencies..
i have my sub set to 80hz
my fronts set at 210hz
and my rears are set to 150hz
yes, im aware that there is nothing between 80-150hz, but it still sounds good. clear even. i still need more power to the satelite speakers tho..
You don't need them set to the same frequency, you're doing it right.
Crossovers have curves/slope. Most used in car audio arnt steep 48db/octave like I would normally deploy.
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#37
by
theman53
on 24 Nov, 2011 13:06
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I always like my JL 12w4's crossed at 50hz. It seemed like they were quieter and hit harder. I also crossed my front speakers around 100-125 ish and the rears at 63-80. All this depended on the car and setup AND the biggest deal was my ears. Others hated my cars sound, but I loved it. I was also running a PPI pro mos 4x25 to the fronts, tweets, and rears. My subs were handled by a PPI Art series A 200, which was a tad small, but did the job on mono. I needed 2 of them really.
My crossoevers were only 24db/octave so maybe it filled in better than one that cut them more. At any rate, my last 4 cars didn't have any car stereo at all...eventhough I still have some of the old setup and could have one working.
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#38
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 24 Nov, 2011 13:18
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I always like my JL 12w4's crossed at 50hz. It seemed like they were quieter and hit harder. I also crossed my front speakers around 100-125 ish and the rears at 63-80. All this depended on the car and setup AND the biggest deal was my ears. Others hated my cars sound, but I loved it. I was also running a PPI pro mos 4x25 to the fronts, tweets, and rears. My subs were handled by a PPI Art series A 200, which was a tad small, but did the job on mono. I needed 2 of them really.
My crossoevers were only 24db/octave so maybe it filled in better than one that cut them more. At any rate, my last 4 cars didn't have any car stereo at all...eventhough I still have some of the old setup and could have one working.
wasnt aware they made a W4..
i know they make W3's, used to make W5's, still make W6's, and W7's..
PPI? screw you... im envious.
and i was told to run my 13W7 at 80hz, and it does just fine.. i agree that subs do sound a bit cleaner on some music with lower XO frequencies, but my satelite speakers produce no bass frequencies, so this sub has to take care of everything below 80hz or so..
oh, i see that JL DID MAKE A W4, just a long, LONG time ago...
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#39
by
theman53
on 24 Nov, 2011 13:24
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I AM old school. W4 were basically an old school version of the W1's that handled a bit more power IIRC and were supposed to take a bigger enclosure. I put mine in the same enclosure I had the W1's in then moved to and even smaller one at I think 1.0 cubic foot per side and filled it. It pounded harder than some peoples 15" subs with 5x the power. When I would lift the trunk lid of the car and show them this tiny box 2 12's and a 200w amp they didn't know whether to stratch their head or their behind.
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#40
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 24 Nov, 2011 13:36
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I AM old school. W4 were basically an old school version of the W1's that handled a bit more power IIRC and were supposed to take a bigger enclosure. I put mine in the same enclosure I had the W1's in then moved to and even smaller one at I think 1.0 cubic foot per side and filled it. It pounded harder than some peoples 15" subs with 5x the power. When I would lift the trunk lid of the car and show them this tiny box 2 12's and a 200w amp they didn't know whether to stratch their head or their behind.
ive had setups like that in the past, but now im running a big block sub, and a big block amp to power it.. does a great job of shaking my thoughts
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#41
by
camboscams
on 24 Nov, 2011 17:45
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does a great job of shaking my thoughts
Nicely put
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#42
by
ToddA1
on 26 Nov, 2011 09:30
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I've run 6.5"s in the doors. They will fit, but the regulators will need to be tweaked a bit, unless you plan on mounting them towards the middle, beside the seat. I had to mount mine directly to the door, and carefully cut the panel to fit around it. Any additional height will interfere with the window crank. Zender used to make crank spacers, but they're long since NLA.
I ran W4s almost 20 years ago, and PPI ProMos is probably just as old. It was he 1st amp line that was bridgeable and 2 ohm stable.
I'm also a big fan of staggered crossover points. Soundstream was always a big advocate of the practice. I remember doing a quick and dirty tuning of a friend's newly installed stereo. The system was way too boomy and muddled and the shop couldn't get it any better. I staggered the crossover points and it sounded 100% better. He was amazed that dropping 75hz to 175hz out of the equation made such a dramatic difference.
-Todd
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#43
by
theman53
on 26 Nov, 2011 09:46
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Yes, my old stereo was great back then and the last it was running still wasn't bad. I graduated HS about 15 years ago and it was when I was a sophmore that I bought all the stuff.
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#44
by
ToddA1
on 26 Nov, 2011 10:05
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I still have some of my old MB Quart QM series speakers (before they went bankrupt and sold to Rockford), MTX black and gold amps, Diamond Audio M5 subs etc.. Other than Audio Control, it's tough to find stuff made in the U.S.
I remember paying $300+ for a set of Quarts or $500+ for a Soundstream amp, and I never paid retail. My stereo guy that I've been using for 20 years (or longer) will break out the books and show me his cost, if I ask. I'm not sure if the ends justify the means.... today's China stuff is way more affordable and isn't terrible. I'm not sure that I'd be willing to pay that much for stereo equipment, nowadays. When I was younger, I had a lot more disposable income.
-Todd