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How to remove turbo
by
Fredrikkk
on 25 Apr, 2011 04:18
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I've searched, and can't find a straight answer.
I've got my eyes on a K24, and I was wondering if it's possible to remove the manifolds with the engine in the car.
I'm also wondering if the K14 downpipe can be used on the K24.
Thanks!
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#1
by
Patrick
on 25 Apr, 2011 04:27
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The K14 pipe from a mk3 car will work. Removing the manifolds in the car is quite a chore. I changed out an NA manifold that had a hole in it in a mk2 golf. It can be done, but it's not fun!
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#2
by
Dirtrag2
on 25 Apr, 2011 05:46
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to remove manifold while engine still in car, you need to remove the turbo fist. ( I find it's easiest from under the car )
you will require:
1- a triple square 12mm socket
2- lots of patience
3- a skin graft for your scrapped knuckles

then from there removing the manifold is only a matter of time and a bit of effort.
good luck
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#3
by
Fredrikkk
on 25 Apr, 2011 08:26
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Ai ai ai... How do I get to the bolts on the turbo closest to the engine though?
I haven't really looked at how to get it off yet, but I'm guessing some ramps to put the car on would be helpful. It's either that, or I take the entire engine out and do some preventative maintenance. But of course, that would require an engine hoist and an engine holder thingy...
Decisions, decisions
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#4
by
vanagonturbo
on 25 Apr, 2011 09:00
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12mm triple square box end wrench.
Dont forget to install new studs while you are in there!
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#5
by
Fredrikkk
on 25 Apr, 2011 12:05
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It seems like a PIA, but eh.. I want to be able to do these things myself to save money and learn.
I want to change the head gasket too, but there are just so many things that need to be disassembled.
Time will show..
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#6
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Apr, 2011 12:36
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It seems like a PIA, but eh.. I want to be able to do these things myself to save money and learn.
I want to change the head gasket too, but there are just so many things that need to be disassembled.
Time will show.. 
is the head gasket bad? i wouldnt change it unless it is..
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#7
by
Fredrikkk
on 25 Apr, 2011 12:44
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The head gasket is relatively new... Changed in 2007 at VW and only 60,000 kms ago.

If I get a K24 I'm gonna want to run close to 25 psi and do the gov mod, so it'd be nice not to be driving and then the head gasket suddenly blowing out on me..
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#8
by
TDsamurai
on 25 Apr, 2011 18:44
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Id like to point out that 12 point and triple square are different. The difference being in the angle of each point 60 degrees for 12 point and 90 for triple square. From my understanding the turbo bolts are 12 point not triple square. I know i wouldnt be pleased if i went and bought a triple square socket or wrench to remove my turbo only to find out that it either does not exist or its just a normal 12 point lol. Just tryin to help avoid confusion hopefully that didnt make it worse.
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#9
by
vanagonturbo
on 25 Apr, 2011 18:55
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Id like to point out that 12 point and triple square are different. The difference being in the angle of each point 60 degrees for 12 point and 90 for triple square. From my understanding the turbo bolts are 12 point not triple square. I know i wouldnt be pleased if i went and bought a triple square socket or wrench to remove my turbo only to find out that it either does not exist or its just a normal 12 point lol. Just tryin to help avoid confusion hopefully that didnt make it worse.
:thumbup: I did mean 12pt when I posted that.
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#10
by
Fredrikkk
on 25 Apr, 2011 22:14
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Id like to point out that 12 point and triple square are different. The difference being in the angle of each point 60 degrees for 12 point and 90 for triple square. From my understanding the turbo bolts are 12 point not triple square. I know i wouldnt be pleased if i went and bought a triple square socket or wrench to remove my turbo only to find out that it either does not exist or its just a normal 12 point lol. Just tryin to help avoid confusion hopefully that didnt make it worse.
Thank you very much for the information
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#11
by
burn_your_money
on 26 Apr, 2011 07:57
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Make sure that you have long enough extensions to get from the bottom of the turbo to underneath the subframe. I forget if removing the PS axle is helpful or not but it is something to consider. Don't lift the car up in the air as high as you can go (unless you have a car hoist) because it will be harder to reach the turbo when laying on your back. Keep it as low as possible. You should wear safety glasses when under there because a lot of garbage will fall in your eyes if you don't, plus when the socket falls off at least you won't get it in the eye.
Consider pressure washing the back of the engine and subframe if you have that option.
If you are doing the headgasket anyways, take the head off and then the turbo, that is the easiest way.
I usually just remove the turbo from the top. My back is usually pretty sore the next day though.
Although not necessary, I find that the 3/8" 12pt sockets generally fit better and easier then the 1/2" ones.
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#12
by
Fredrikkk
on 26 Apr, 2011 12:55
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Lots of good information there! Thanks
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#13
by
macka
on 26 Apr, 2011 17:11
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I have to add that if you aren't running the car for a few days, soak the bolts with a good penetrating fluid (gas-X, Kryoil, PB Blaster, a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone in a pinch), over a few days before attempting to break those bolts out. Once you get the bolts broken free, snug them a little bit then clean the back of the engine off. I also use the change of turbo to put on new feed and return lines for the turbo. Cheap insurance

. A quick tip. If you decide to leave the turbo attached to the manifold and just remove it as a unit, use an engine hoist to support the turbo and manifold, it'll save your back.
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#14
by
Fredrikkk
on 27 Apr, 2011 13:23
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Thank you thank you. I'm forever grateful for all the great info!
I've talked to the guy I'm buying the turbo from, and he's sending me the turbo with manifold, compressor-exit hose and oil lines. He has the intake hose, but it's cut in half...

I'm hoping I can make something work with the stock intercooler!