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#30
by
rabbitman
on 12 May, 2011 23:56
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Got it a lot better, still seems noisier than I thought it should be.........actually I just thought of I'm comparing it to how my friends MK2 TD sounds, of course that'll be quieter.
Shouldn't this be a lot quieter than say, a rabbit NA? haha I hope so.
I looked into the temp gauge thing and it's just the sender, jumping it to ground pegs it on high. Funny thing though is that both senders appear to be bad since switching the GP and gauge plugs doesn't help.
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#31
by
rabbitman
on 13 May, 2011 19:42
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Something is still not right with it. It starts hard and then misses but at the same time it clacks real bad, I'm thinkin' the fuel lines and stuff weren't clean enough and is causing leaky/clogged injectors or something.
I added a pint of seafoam to 5/8 tank of fuel so we'll see if it helps.
Is it OK to run straight seafoam?
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#32
by
truckinwagen
on 13 May, 2011 19:49
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I would stick some lubricity additive along with it just in case.
BTW diesel purge is goooooood stuff, and NAPA should have it/be able to get it.
-Owen
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#33
by
rabbitman
on 13 May, 2011 20:47
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BTW diesel purge is goooooood stuff, and NAPA should have it/be able to get it.
-Owen
I might look into it.
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#34
by
rabbitman
on 16 May, 2011 13:57
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I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the head since I was missing the stock sender anyways and wanted to know what it is.
Here it is.
Cold idle: 70-80 psi and doesn't change much when revved.
Hot idle: 10psi
Hot revved: 30-35psi
Driving longer would probably get the oil hotter but the rad fan had come on at least once.
I do not have a tach but I'd guess idle to be 1000-1100rpm (yes it idles high) and revved to be in the 3000-3500rpm range.
I think the low oil pressure is affecting the vacuum pump since it vacs real good when cold but once it's hot I have to rev it to get good brakes.
That's way to low for my liking and being a '92 it probably already has the 36mm oil pump.
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#35
by
rabbitman
on 09 Jun, 2011 22:00
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Just put my tach in
Much better than the big clock.
Do these tachs need calibrating? I assume it would be accurate as long as the crank and alternator pulleys are the same size as the car it came off of, but if they're not is there adjusting screws on it somewhere?
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#36
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Jun, 2011 08:42
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i would say it is probably accurate, but i recommend that you double check. so long as your speedometer is accurate you can use your gear ratios to figure out what rpm you should be at at certain speeds
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#37
by
rabbitman
on 13 Jun, 2011 16:25
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i would say it is probably accurate, but i recommend that you double check. so long as your speedometer is accurate you can use your gear ratios to figure out what rpm you should be at at certain speeds
I parked my rabbit close to the golf and used the rabbits tiny tach (accurate to within 1 rpm below 1000 and within 10 above 1000rpm) to test the accuracy of the analog tach. It seemed to vary from about 50-150 rpms off, fine for driving but not really for tuning the IP. It's accurate enough to get tuned better than it is now though
.
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#38
by
RabbitJockey
on 13 Jun, 2011 18:48
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they're pretty simple to adjust if need be
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#39
by
rabbitman
on 02 Dec, 2011 20:24
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My stereo, notice my messed up dash, that's part of the reason I didn't put it where it's supposed to go.
The city lights on
This is were the temp gauge likes to sit, It's not overheating so do I need a different sender to lower the needle?
Looks good to me.........
The muffler was broke loose from the core so it could spin so I got a new Walker muffler from amazon, it's really quiet now.
I just gotta get it to start in the cold and I'll start driving it.
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#40
by
Fredrikkk
on 03 Dec, 2011 04:16
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Nice car!
My temp needle stays just under half at almost all times. I have a fan cooling switch too set to 84 degrees celcius I think too. Helps keep it cool
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#41
by
rabbitman
on 03 Dec, 2011 13:31
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Nice car!
My temp needle stays just under half at almost all times. I have a fan cooling switch too set to 84 degrees celcius I think too. Helps keep it cool
Thanks man.
The thing with the gauge is it's not overheating at all and the lower rad hose barely gets warm meaning the t-stat isn't opening much. I'll just live with it I guess, it sure is nice when the needle sits right in the middle though
.
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#42
by
srgtlord
on 04 Dec, 2011 07:21
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
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#43
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Dec, 2011 11:18
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
i dont think owen ever had any issues with the cooling system??
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#44
by
rabbitman
on 05 Dec, 2011 19:09
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
i dont think owen ever had any issues with the cooling system??
He never even ran this car, he lost interest and sold it after buying the isuzu.
Like I said though, the needle sits too high but the actual temperature is not high. The top rad hose is not too hot to hold on to.
Just wondering if the sender is screwed (it's new) up or if it's the gauge. The sender is blue does that sound right?