I have a 90 Jetta TD and have discovered that the rear wheels seem to be a bit twitchy when one kicks the tire. Just how much is the axle beam allowed to move? When I was kicking some built up snow off the wheel, it seemed to move more than I would expect. Is there a measurement or test for this? Also, She seems to be settling a bit low in the back end. Will I have to replace the springs to raise the ride height?
Cheers!
Springs will bring up the back, lots of threads on what others have done. As for the loose in the back, jack it up and check wheel bearings before you worry about the suspension bushings, it's an easier fix anyway.
I'm kinda stunned when others are surprised that the axle bushings wear out. Maybe it's because of our roads, but i've been changing them for years especially mk2's and up, but the worse are mk4's. Seen some worn in as little as 40,000 kms.
To check them- get it on to a lift, get a pry bar and see how much play there is, there should be almost none. Some are so bad you can rock the whole axle but hand. If you are not sure, look at the bushing while rocking it - you will be able to see if it's torn.
If you are not sure, look at the bushing while rocking it - you will be able to see if it's torn.
Well. I did as you suggested, and the bushings are clearly separated on both sides. No need for a pry bar. Once I raised the whole rear end I found I can move the beam just with my hand. It looks like the springs have been beat up pretty bad from the bushings being absent. I am going to swap the entire axle assy from my parts car. The rear bushings on it are nice and tight, and the struts and springs look brand new. The brakes and bearings certainly are. It actually looks like all four corners were overhauled shortly before I bought it, so I'm going to do the works. I love how simple they made these cars to work on. If the weather weren't so bad it would be a breeze.
Thanks for the advice!
Just wondering. How do you change the bushings and are polyurathane preferred. If not what do you use?
Just wondering. How do you change the bushings and are polyurathane preferred. If not what do you use?
Not that I actually know first hand what I am talking about; but Bently shows that the bushings need to be pressed out. Sorry, but merely describing the procedure leaves out a lot without drawings. A Bently book would probably be a good investment. It shows all the steps with diagrams. I am swapping in the complete assy and it is a lot easier as I don't need to re-align anything as long as the brackets and pivot bolts are left alone. As for poly, I have heard good things, but am yet to use them. A very learned parts guy tells me they last much longer.
The old ones will probably fall out, at least the rubber centers. The steel casing that is "pressed" into the axle I just cut a couple of slits in with a sawsall. Just be carefull, but if you hit the beam it's not a big deal. I gently sand the inside surface of the beam where the new bushings will sit with a fine grit sandpaper to clean it up and make sure there are no burrs. Pop bushings in freezer for at least an hour, grease the bushings and hole. Since "pressing" them in isn't really an option, the easiest I have found is to obtain a bolt long enough to pass through the bushing and the hole in the beam, through a piece of flat stock larger than the hole, attach with nut. Wrench on nut, impact on bolt and away you go. Just make sure it is going in square and it'll draw itself in. Do this 3 more times and your golden.
Alignment isn't really an issue, it should be back to spec as it relates to the beam mounting providing the car is straight. Even if it is off for whatever reason, there's no real way to correct it anyways!
Ian
Poly bushings for a MK1 just press in by hand, and since there's no rubber twisting and holding the bracket it's a piece of cake to install.
I bought a set of poly bushings for the rear of MK2 and when they came I found out it's just inserts rather than the whole bushing, lame if you ask me.