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'Frozen' tranny oil filler plug
by
doonboggle
on 16 Nov, 2010 11:47
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Trying to break loose the filler plug in my 1.6l diesel 5-speed tranny... in order to continue tracking rumbling noise ... to make sure it has enough oil in the tranny.
Due to not being able to loosen it so far, beginning to doubt that the guru shop fibbed about changing the oil.
Have put notable force both ways with no success so far.
Is it the standard loosening turns ... or otherwise counterclock .... or the opposite???
Don't really know when was last loosened.
Any clues?
Soaking squirting something on it does not seem feasible since it is vertical.
TIA
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#1
by
Syncroincity
on 16 Nov, 2010 12:14
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It's standard thread, so counter-clockwise, or left, to loosen. Hit it with PB Blaster or some kind of knock-loose fluid, that stuff creeps into the threads, but it's not fast, keep hitting it every 10-15 mins. Are you using the big 17MM allen key? Sears has it, and you can use a pipe as a cheater bar, that REALLY helps a lot. If all else fails, hit it with a torch until it's smoking hot and try again.
If you strip it out (been there
) or nothing else works you can use a chisel & hammer to try to knock it loose, just keep pointing the chisel counter-clockwise.
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#2
by
rallydiesel
on 16 Nov, 2010 12:20
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Tapping the allen wrench with a big hammer usually gets them loose.
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#3
by
Dakotakid
on 16 Nov, 2010 14:09
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Propane torch (at 1000 degrees) vs. acetylene (at 3000 degrees).
Heat the area around the plug and the plug itself and a few taps on the plug with punch or whatever....then turn.
If you do use acetylene.....keep the torch moving!
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#4
by
Vincent Waldon
on 16 Nov, 2010 15:15
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I had an 020 fill hole once where the corners eventually rounded off.... even with heat/oil/etc and the proper 17mm wrench.
However, the drain plug on the bottom *did* come out... so I drained it and then added exactly 2l of tranny oil thru the speedo cable hole... done.... no need for the fill hole after all. ;-)
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#5
by
doonboggle
on 16 Nov, 2010 15:27
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Don't have torches so not an option. Plus, being me, am a skeptic towards that and the oil, which if flamable... so wanted to avoid that if possible.
Wound up just taping it while circleing around the ridge ... off an on for some time ... being careful to not distort the ridge wherein the 17mm tool would not fit.
After off and on for about total of half an hour or so, tried it one last time with the bustr bar ... and ever so slow it finally broke loose. Did not see any corosion of it ... just over torqued from installation I guess. Anyway, can now eliminate low fluid for the rumbling ... it was there A-OK.
The 'tool' I used was a 11/16 connector nut from local hardware ... True Value ... and shaved off each of the 6 sides with the dremel. Fit like a glove once I got it ready.
1.89 ... sure beats the 16.00 and above ... and a few less ... from the internet, plus shipping.
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#6
by
2strokesmoke
on 18 Nov, 2010 21:39
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I actually made a tool,for removing the fill/drain plugs.
Quite simple:
I took a nice hardened bolt,with a 17mm socket head and welded a lug nut from an GM car to the threaded end. Can use a 3/4" socket or wrench to turn the tool.
Works every time..even with an impact gun
You could also make a tool by using a bolt,as I did and double nutting the threaded end..or use a pipe wrench on the threaded end.
(impact gun NOT recommended) LOL
Also made a tool to remove the flywheel inspection plug (timing plug) in the same manner.
Also works great.
Cheers !
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#7
by
doonboggle
on 19 Nov, 2010 15:29
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Yeah ... read about that approach also.
But as above, not having torch tools, the best for me was the 1.89 cent item at True Value ... and then grinding off with dreemel just enough to fit in the plug on one end, and my 17mm socket on the other end.
"Cat's meow' now!
I actually made a tool,for removing the fill/drain plugs.
Quite simple:
I took a nice hardened bolt,with a 17mm socket head and welded a lug nut from an GM car to the threaded end. Can use a 3/4" socket or wrench to turn the tool.
Works every time..even with an impact gun
You could also make a tool by using a bolt,as I did and double nutting the threaded end..or use a pipe wrench on the threaded end.
(impact gun NOT recommended) LOL
Also made a tool to remove the flywheel inspection plug (timing plug) in the same manner.
Also works great.
Cheers !
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#8
by
Syncroincity
on 20 Nov, 2010 03:20
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Here's a little post script... a life lesson learned the hard way. Make damn sure you can get the fill port out of the trans BEFORE you drain the oil.
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#9
by
Patrick
on 20 Nov, 2010 04:50
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I actually made a tool,for removing the fill/drain plugs.
Quite simple:
I took a nice hardened bolt,with a 17mm socket head and welded a lug nut from an GM car to the threaded end. Can use a 3/4" socket or wrench to turn the tool.
Works every time..even with an impact gun
You could also make a tool by using a bolt,as I did and double nutting the threaded end..or use a pipe wrench on the threaded end.
(impact gun NOT recommended) LOL
Also made a tool to remove the flywheel inspection plug (timing plug) in the same manner.
Also works great.
Cheers !
Wheel bolts are the right size for this trick......... (been there done that before I got the right tool).
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#10
by
Smokey Eddy
on 01 Dec, 2010 14:17
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RadoTD had a 17mm Allan wrench and he cut off about an inch of it and gave it to me. The same can be done with a wheel bolt. OP hasn't posted in a while... did you figure it out?
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#11
by
doonboggle
on 01 Dec, 2010 15:28
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Yes ... see above. Total of 1.89 cents. And worked better than the bolt process, which I also tried.
Has much more stability and
embeddment ... if that is a word.
TIA
RadoTD had a 17mm Allan wrench and he cut off about an inch of it and gave it to me. The same can be done with a wheel bolt. OP hasn't posted in a while... did you figure it out?
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#12
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Dec, 2010 10:55
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toyota pickup ring&pinion bolts also work nicely as a bit for taking the plugs out of the trans. with a lug nut welded on one end.. open ended lug nut so yo ucan get at it from both sides with the welder. then drop it in some oil as soon as your done welding it. or does that even actually work?
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#13
by
doonboggle
on 03 Dec, 2010 12:59
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Don't know.
But why go to all that trouble ... when my item, all of less than 2.00, did not need any welding or whatever ... but a mere 2-3 minutes of easy removel of the 9/16th sides.
All done in less than 4 minutes ... and much more stability ... IMO.
toyota pickup ring&pinion bolts also work nicely as a bit for taking the plugs out of the trans. with a lug nut welded on one end.. open ended lug nut so yo ucan get at it from both sides with the welder. then drop it in some oil as soon as your done welding it. or does that even actually work?
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#14
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Dec, 2010 13:43
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because mine was free.. i had the welder, the ring gear bolt, and the open lug nut. mine was completely free to make, and i had to go nowhere to get parts to build it..
thats why i did it the way i did.