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elecrical help needed
by
smoken u
on 23 Oct, 2010 11:37
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ok, so i just changed the heater core on my mom 91 jetta 1.6td, but now i have no blower motor, all worked fine before i took it apart, so i figured i had missed a connection, so i pulled most of the dash apart again to take a look, i did find one connector that i had missed, it is a large female 3 spade (2 vertical 1 horizontal) with the color code of black/red red/black red/white. red/black has a key on 12volt power, and jumping across to the other 2 terminals turns on the rad fan, and operates the blower motor on high speed only. this is all fine and dandy, but i cannot find the other male end to this connector
is there even supposed to be one, the bently has innacturate diagrams for the 91, and judging by the oned for the 89's and 90's they are different, if anyone could give me some help with this one it would be awesome.
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#1
by
Smokey Eddy
on 24 Oct, 2010 02:41
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Bizzare. uhhh
hmmm
well have you found the wire harness for the switch that usually turns on the blower motor?
if thats connected up and its either full blast or off then its the thermo... what ever resistor that is underneath the blower motor. look up aw crap whats that resistor called... it gets really really hot
search blower motor 3 or off mk2 VW on google and you'll find a guide im sure.
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#2
by
Smokey Eddy
on 24 Oct, 2010 02:42
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from wiki answers:
"The blower motor resistor is on the passenger side, under the dash. remove the lower dash panel (2 or 4 screws) and it is the peice right in front of you with wires snaking towards it, and two wiring clips going to it. a tug, and it should come out"
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#3
by
smoken u
on 24 Oct, 2010 06:00
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ill test the resistor this morning, we'll see what happens, it could even be the rotary switch for the blower motor itself, i have my car apart as well, so ill swap out the switches, and see if that does anything
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#4
by
theman53
on 24 Oct, 2010 06:41
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DUDE I can finallly be useful. That connector is one that I just spent 2 weeks asking and looking for. If it is the same one you need it on the back of the controllers. ex. Vent, Floor, hot and cold controller. On the back of that there is your plug. Once you hook it up it should work as before. Search in this troubleshooting thread and you may find mine with pics.
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#5
by
smoken u
on 24 Oct, 2010 14:51
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lol the man53, you were right plugged it in had fan speed on level 4 only, then i took the resistor out, and tested it wih a multimeter, and I found that the diode was shot, thankfully i have about a billion of them things kicking around the house so i just soldered a new one in and it worked like new, now i get to solve my other 2 electrical mysteries, intermittent glow plugs, and no dash lights lol
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 24 Oct, 2010 20:03
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#7
by
smoken u
on 25 Oct, 2010 01:14
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got the glowplugs working, was just the temperature sender unit, unplugged it and the glowplugs came on, mond you they are not timed after unplugging but they do work, so ill just put a new sender unit it, as for dash lights, i have a dead short somwhere, jumping from the grey wire at the dimmer (hot) to the grey/blue (dash lights) just blows the 10amp fuse, bhackfeeding the circuit, bypassing the fuse heats up the wires nice and hot, but no lights, the previous owner installed a single bulb himself into the fan speed control knob, and the wiring looks pretty hacked up there, so ill look at that first lol
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#8
by
smutts
on 25 Oct, 2010 11:20
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and I found that the diode was shot, thankfully i have about a billion of them things kicking around the house so i just soldered a new one in and it worked like new
Sorry mate, thats not a diode, it is a thermal fuse, it's there to blow before the dashboard catches fire from a too hot fan resistor. The fan needs oiling, as the bearing drying out causes it all to run too hot. Thermal fuses cost pennies, but when you solder it, clamp a set of pliers on the lead between the solder and the fuse to sink the heat whilst soldering else the thermal fuse will blow. Repeat every couple of years or so.
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#9
by
smoken u
on 25 Oct, 2010 17:14
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lol, thermal fuse, laright then well whatever i soldered in there, had the same values listed on it as what was removed, seems to work great, if i have to fix it again in the future its not too bad, at least you can get to it by removing the glovebox
