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1.6 n/a "mini-build" by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 08:21
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Hello all!
after noticing oil squirting outta my dipstick tube, and pretty much everywhere else,
i realized i needed to do some pretty major work on the motor to get it working/running right again.
i'm not looking to make big power or anything, i just want a motor that doesn't leak like crazy.
here's the car in it's current state (much to come soon in the way of reconditioning/paint)
(that isn't me
)
i decided, since this is my first time dealing with a motor in anything other than the most simplest of ways,
that i should try to find a somewhat reworked long block or short block with the head and bottom end already taken care of.
so after a few months of thinking/searching, i came upon a 1.6 in tennessee, and pulled the trigger.
thanks to user "dennis" aka dennis for the motor, seems like a hell of a motor already.
here it is on the picker:
new and clean under the valve cover:
seems to all be there:
although there is some chipping and broken bits here and there
my basic plan is to put it all together with mostly new or refurbed parts to reinstall into the mk2,
but i have a ton of questions, still.
is this a mech or hydro head?
can i replace the crank sprocket that's chipped?
the timing belt tensioner also needs to be replaced, are there replacements available, or is it finding a good used one?
will my mk2 mech pump fit on this motor?
can a valve cover gasket (rubber) be reused from my other motor with the shoulderless studs, or is it a good idea to replace it with new? it seems fine, and never had a ton of pressure on it?
where is the best place to go for good camshaft/intermediate shaft/etc shaft seals?
i have a great many more questions, but i'll be starting off slow. the car and motor will be three hours away from me for the foreseeable future, so i'll be doing a lot of preplanning to try to knock it out as quickly as possible.
this is my first literal motor swap, what all should i consider?
sorry for the helplessness, i can't really afford to mess this up, so i want to make sure i get it right!
car has all new motor mounts, trans, battery, wiring, etc,
but will get new soft fuel lines and new coolant lines and a radiator.
also, will the a/c brackets swap over from the motor in my current car to this motor?
so many questions! sorry!
thanks for any help or advice y'all may have.
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#1 by rs899 on 10 Aug, 2010 08:45
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is this a mech or hydro head? Looks Mechanical
can i replace the crank sprocket that's chipped? Yes, or perhaps you can grind the lip down, see what others think
the timing belt tensioner also needs to be replaced, are there replacements available, or is it finding a good used one? Yes, replace it with a German one
will my mk2 mech pump fit on this motor? Yes
can a valve cover gasket (rubber) be reused from my other motor with the shoulderless studs, or is it a good idea to replace it with new? it seems fine, and never had a ton of pressure on it? You can reuse
where is the best place to go for good camshaft/intermediate shaft/etc shaft seals? I think any of the German ones are good, Autohaus AZ I think has Goetze or Elring -
#2 by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 08:48
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excellent!
thanks for the tips on round one!
i'm sure i'll have a thousand more.
i figure if i can swap out all of the front suspension components on my car, i should be able to handle the outside bolt-on stuff of this motor.
my "build" thread is in my signature, of what i've come around with with this car -
#3 by rodpaslow on 10 Aug, 2010 09:02
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If you're wanting a motor that doesn't leak; for the time it takes I'd look at replacing the intermediate shaft seal, front and rear seals and the oil pan gasket. While you have the motor out like this they are extremely easy to replace and cheap $$, cheap insurance that you will have a leak free motor.
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#4 by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 09:12
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ah yes,
i meant to mention that if i didn't.
every seal that i can find will be replaced.
but the last motor had some crazy crankcase pressure issues causing most of the leaks.
these are good tips so far.
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#5 by rs899 on 10 Aug, 2010 09:15
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I would also check the intermediate shaft bearing for excessive play. It will be easy to replace ( at least the outer) with the engine out. You might think about checking the main and rod bearings for clearance, clean out the sump.
All depends how worn the engine might be and how much you feel like tearing it down.... -
#6 by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 09:23
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i'm fairly certain the bottom end is fresh with no issues, according to dennis, iirc. he said that the 1.6 has new rod bearings and rings. :thumbup:
but the intermediate shaft i will definitely pay attention to, as i hear it's a nightmare to deal with.
what is the allowed tolerance for play in the shaft? -
#7 by rs899 on 10 Aug, 2010 09:44
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I'm not sure what the factory measurement is, but they probably left the factory with maybe .003-.005" clearance. You can probably live with .010-.020, or until you blow the seal, lose oil pressure, etc
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#8 by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 09:52
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i will definitely be replacing it, for sure.
what is a "keyway" and how do i know if it's worn? -
#9 by rs899 on 10 Aug, 2010 10:05
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A keyway is a groove machined into a shaft and a pulley and a woodruff key is installed to keep the pulley and shaft in alignment. You have them on the crank, the IP and the intermediate shaft (but not the cam- well there is a keyway, but no key is used). The key should fit tightly.
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#10 by fck on 10 Aug, 2010 18:38
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11mm or 12mm head?
has the triple point bolts in there...
and what advantages do either have? -
#11 by Baron VonZeppelin on 10 Aug, 2010 21:40
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Its a Mechanical head/block.
You can get a crank sprocket at AutohausAZ.com for around 20-25'ish. They - and RockAuto.com - are about best bangs for bucks on most all Mk1 and Mk2 parts.
You need cam followers on top of those valve springs. fwiw
You need a mechanical camshaft. fwiw
Most/All the exterior garments will swap over from your old engine.
Triplesquare 12pointers "can" be deceiving sometimes.
They might be 11mm gasser bolts.
With the crankcase vent provision (spout next to oil filter pedestal mount location) on your block - it sorta lends me to think it might be an 11mm block.
See if your crank bolt takes a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
See whether its cast with 16D or 1.6D on front/back of block.
There is no advantage with an 11mm engine.
12mm has advantages over 11mm.
An 11mm can be just as reliable and longlasting engine as a 12mm, but it (11mm) practically requires the mandatory use of head studs versus stock headbolts. -
#12 by fck on 11 Aug, 2010 08:08
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ah!
i forgot to include the cam and follower pics, but i have those in a box separately.
if i understand correctly, the 16D means (or at least points to) the thought that it's an 11mm head, vs the 1.6D stamp probably meaning it's a 12mm?
with the 11mm head, are you implying that the headbolts don't tend to want to hold? -
#13 by theman53 on 11 Aug, 2010 08:27
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There is a thread in the FAQ section detailing the 11mm block and its downfall. Basically, the block tends to crack as there isn't enough meat or threads into it.
I would look to see what the engine code is. It is under #3 glowplug on the flat piece on the block. Has a # plus 2 letters ex: MF, ME, CK .... You might be able to tell from that, but some had cross overs as well IIRC. -
#14 by Baron VonZeppelin on 11 Aug, 2010 09:38
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See if your crank bolt takes a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
See whether its cast with 16D or 1.6D on front/back of block.
That should have been 14mm or 17mm crank bolt - oops.
16D casting is "usually" definitely an 11mm.
1.6D "....." 12mm.
If its a 17mm crankbolt its 12mm.
If its 14mm - it could be either 11 or 12.
The part number on the head can sometimes be a clue, as well as the block code. Some code(s) were used on 11 and 12.
It can get screwy, sometimes just have to pull a headbolt.